Preventing Surface Film

[KrisReef]

The new tank will have the same pump, so circulation through the filter isn't going to change the particles in the water.
( A 15 second video of your particles might stir up conversations and solutions?)

 

[Sam7]

those are supposed to flow under from bottom not go over top

 

[Sam7]

It looks fine in the video on the surface to me. That spilling over looks like slight gunk with sand dust

 

[Sam7]

you are blocking the flow with that rock work sticking up out of the water

 

[shimps1]

The new tank will have the same pump, so circulation through the filter isn't going to change the particles in the water.
( A 15 second video of your particles might stir up conversations and solutions?)

Video added here.

There are copepods on the glass but you can still see the stuff floating in the water. I did turn the pumps off after making the video, and there are a lot of copepods swimming, but there is still detritus as well. You can see the film in the top left of the tank, not being sucked into the weirs.

I feel like a tank with lower baffle height would create more drop down from the display water height to the sump water height, increasing the skimming effect. It would also allow me to run the return pump at a higher speed, increasing both flow through the filter media and surface agitation. If I'm wrong, call me out.

 

[KrisReef]

Ah, I didn't realize the pump was adjustable and running slow. The tank looks great to me. I love the mangrove! The pods and other stuff in the water don't bother me, but it's your tank so do what you must to be happy with it.

 

[shimps1]

It looks fine in the video on the surface to me. That spilling over looks like slight gunk with sand dust

I'm hesitant to think it's sand dust, since this tank has been up and running for three weeks. I just don't remember it taking this long for the water to get crystal clear. It has been 10 years since my last tank, though.

 

[Sam7]

I'm hesitant to think it's sand dust, since this tank has been up and running for three weeks. I just don't remember it taking this long for the water to get crystal clear. It has been 10 years since my last tank, though.

well your rocks are sticking out of the water and when you buy those dead rocks they are packed full or dirt/sand/debris....did you rinse then for long time before adding them?

 

[shimps1]

well your rocks are sticking out of the water and when you buy those dead rocks they are packed full or dirt/sand/debris....did you rinse then for long time before adding them?

I did not, just a quick rinse. I guess it's possible. I don't think them being above the water makes a difference, but I guess dust is possible still.

 

[JoshO]

Just to reignite this thread...I'm running a Reef Casa Laguna. I've had (and continue to have) the same issue. Reef Casa are aware as they're also having the same issue with their display systems. I believe they're looking to rectify with future systems.
I'm of the opinion that the return baffle is too high, and the comb is too small, arguably it needs to be 50% larger. The IM lagoon 25 is virtually identical in size but has double the weir size.
I'm debating adding a larger weir by cutting out th existing teeth and adding a larger one that hooks on before draining into the first chamber. Opinions?

 

[KrisReef]

Just to reignite this thread...I'm running a Reef Casa Laguna. I've had (and continue to have) the same issue. Reef Casa are aware as they're also having the same issue with their display systems. I believe they're looking to rectify with future systems.
I'm of the opinion that the return baffle is too high, and the comb is too small, arguably it needs to be 50% larger. The IM lagoon 25 is virtually identical in size but has double the weir size.
I'm debating adding a larger weir by cutting out th existing teeth and adding a larger one that hooks on before draining into the first chamber. Opinions?

I think I might shut the circulation off,
Lower the water level
Use a dremel grinding cone
And open up the teeth, maybe grinding from the back with a tool that can contact across 2 teeth and open up the gaps to reduce water retention and increase water flow past the teeth?

If that fails, adding a new grill could accomplish the same result, welding it on top of the old, ground out teeth.

 

[shimps1]

Just to reignite this thread...I'm running a Reef Casa Laguna. I've had (and continue to have) the same issue. Reef Casa are aware as they're also having the same issue with their display systems. I believe they're looking to rectify with future systems.
I'm of the opinion that the return baffle is too high, and the comb is too small, arguably it needs to be 50% larger. The IM lagoon 25 is virtually identical in size but has double the weir size.
I'm debating adding a larger weir by cutting out th existing teeth and adding a larger one that hooks on before draining into the first chamber. Opinions?

My tank has improved, just because I have increased surface agitation. I do think the sump design could be improved. I don't think the weirs have anything to do with it, it's the last baffle before the return pump section.

The water level in the sump is just too high because of that baffle. It doesn't allow enough fall from the display into the sump, preventing any skimming action.

If you attempt a weir modification, let me know. I am running my return pump at 50% to prevent the water level in the display from being too high. If I run the pump higher, it overflows through the emergency cut out in the first baffle, so I think the weirs aren't the problem. I could be wrong though.

 

[JoshO]

My tank has improved, just because I have increased surface agitation. I do think the sump design could be improved. I don't think the weirs have anything to do with it, it's the last baffle before the return pump section.

The water level in the sump is just too high because of that baffle. It doesn't allow enough fall from the display into the sump, preventing any skimming action.

If you attempt a weir modification, let me know. I am running my return pump at 50% to prevent the water level in the display from being too high. If I run the pump higher, it overflows through the emergency cut out in the first baffle, so I think the weirs aren't the problem. I could be wrong though.

I've got a ton of surface agitation and with the foods I feed I tend to always end up with films.
I feel like if there's a larger area for the water to overflow then you'd be able to turn up the return without overfilling the display, which means increased flow rate and hopefully better skimming.
I might start with removing every other tooth and see where that gets me

 

[JoshO]

I think I might shut the circulation off,
Lower the water level
Use a dremel grinding cone
And open up the teeth, maybe grinding from the back with a tool that can contact across 2 teeth and open up the gaps to reduce water retention and increase water flow past the teeth?

If that fails, adding a new grill could accomplish the same result, welding it on top of the old, ground out teeth.

I'd be tempted to do the same, but the amount of plastic particulates that would get about worries me. I'm unsure how I'm going to cut them out yet!

 

[shimps1]

I'd be tempted to do the same, but the amount of plastic particulates that would get about worries me. I'm unsure how I'm going to cut them out yet!

Let me know if you do, if it works, and how you do it. Will definitely join you if it makes a difference.

I almost wonder if a soldering iron would work? Get the water level low enough, then use the iron to melt the plastic of the weirs, then pull it out once soft enough.

 

[JoshO]

Let me know if you do, if it works, and how you do it. Will definitely join you if it makes a difference.

I almost wonder if a soldering iron would work? Get the water level low enough, then use the iron to melt the plastic of the weirs, then pull it out once soft enough.

I chopped out every other tooth and increased the return speed. Solved it so quickly. I just used a set of cutters to gnaw away at the tops and bottoms and then twisted the middle until it snapped out. Doesn't look perfect but it's worked

 

[shimps1]

I chopped out every other tooth and increased the return speed. Solved it so quickly. I just used a set of cutters to gnaw away at the tops and bottoms and then twisted the middle until it snapped out. Doesn't look perfect but it's worked

Wow, really? So your surface skimming has improved, and you can run your return pump higher without the display water level getting too high?

 

[Hooz]

Just to reignite this thread...I'm running a Reef Casa Laguna. I've had (and continue to have) the same issue. Reef Casa are aware as they're also having the same issue with their display systems. I believe they're looking to rectify with future systems.
I'm of the opinion that the return baffle is too high, and the comb is too small, arguably it needs to be 50% larger. The IM lagoon 25 is virtually identical in size but has double the weir size.
I'm debating adding a larger weir by cutting out th existing teeth and adding a larger one that hooks on before draining into the first chamber. Opinions?

Opening up the weir would allow for more return flow, but (IMO) the root issue with the biofilm is that the water level is too high in the back chambers. It doesn't allow enough "fall" from the weir teeth to the water surface in the first chamber. In effect, the "surface skimmer" isn't actually skimming the surface.

Just observations from running a Flat 6 and Studio 12, as well as having AiOs from IM, Waterbox and JBJ.

If they shortened the baffle height in the back to bring the water level down an inch, I think the biofilm issue wouldn't be an issue at all.

Both my tanks are first gen tanks, so they're not even as good as the "Mark II" tanks are when it comes to the biofilm. It's manageable, but still my one and only real complaint with the tanks.