Purchasing custom tank - TEMPERED OR NON-TEMPERED??

[PirateDan]

Ha! That’s the one I already have.

How big is you tank? How thick is the glass?

50 gallon 3/8 thick

 

[Lowell Lemon]

Was it tempered (did it crack or explode)? It would have to be a strong toddler or he hit it right on the edge. I literally THROW 1/4" tempered patio door panels in a metal dumpster from time to time and they only break about half of the time.

There is a hugh difference with a window in a frame versus an aquarium full of water on impact resistance. That same window without a frame will explode. Sorry but experience as a glazer does not equal aquarium experience. Go ahead and tap that front panel on you glass tank with a hammer and shoot video for us! Acrylic is 6 times or more resistant to impact than glass in aquarium construction.

 

[Tuffloud1]

At this point, I’m deciding if I need 3/4 glass or is 5/8 sufficient for a 72L x 28W x 30H

Assuming non-tempered and aluminum bracing on top and bottom.

5/8 which I’m guessing is considered 14mm is a safety factor of 2.5

3/4 which I’m guessing is considered 19mm is a safety factor of 4.5

Which would you go with? Pros and cons?

 

[Lowell Lemon]

At this point, I’m deciding if I need 3/4 glass or is 5/8 sufficient for a 72L x 28W x 30H

Assuming non-tempered and aluminum bracing on top and bottom.

5/8 which I’m guessing is considered 14mm is a safety factor of 2.5

3/4 which I’m guessing is considered 19mm is a safety factor of 4.5

Which would you go with? Pros and cons?

Never seen anyone complain that they bought a tank that was too thick...but lots of complaints on too thin. The thicker panels will bow less and distort the view less as a result.

 

[Potatohead]

For only $277 this is no brainer to go 3/4".

 

[Tuffloud1]

For only $277 this is no brainer to go 3/4".

My concern isn’t the cost but more so on the potential setbacks of going thicker.

Is there more distortion due to thicker glass?

Am I more limited in regards to magnet cleaners and power heads?

 

[Potatohead]

My concern isn’t the cost but more so on the potential setbacks of going thicker.

Is there more distortion due to thicker glass?

Am I more limited in regards to magnet cleaners and power heads?

I was going to mention that but most stuff for smaller tanks is designed for 3/8"-1/2" and then 3/4"-1" for larger tanks, I don't think you will have a problem either way.

 

[Tuffloud1]

I was going to mention that but most stuff for smaller tanks is designed for 3/8"-1/2" and then 3/4"-1" for larger tanks, I don't think you will have a problem either way.

Thank you, this helps tremendously.

I also have to decide between CA’s H2O overflow with external box or a completely external overflow where the glass is notched which takes up no space in the tank. The latter is obviously more expensive but wondering if there are any cons to it.

Tank will be in wall so I have the option to have everything external behind the tank.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[Steve Fast]

i went with tempered on my Custom Aquariums tank... for the same strength they told me i could save weight. so went with tempered mostly to save weight. it was a 6 man lift as it was....

 

[Tuffloud1]

i went with tempered on my Custom Aquariums tank... for the same strength they told me i could save weight. so went with tempered mostly to save weight. it was a 6 man lift as it was....

What are the dimensions to your tank? What glass thickness? Did you get Starphire glass? Any pictures?

 

[JoshH]

Thank you, this helps tremendously.

I also have to decide between CA’s H2O overflow with external box or a completely external overflow where the glass is notched which takes up no space in the tank. The latter is obviously more expensive but wondering if there are any cons to it.

Tank will be in wall so I have the option to have everything external behind the tank.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

I've got an external overflow with the notch as you described and while the tank is still dry I love the look of it. SUPER slim and clean with just a 1/4" acrylic panel with slits cut into it. The only downside to it is you can't remove the acrylic for easy cleaning If your overflow is a similar design that is.

 

[Potatohead]

Probably just ignorant but I’ve never seen an overflow like that, just the traditional bulkhead style, that’s really cool.

As for the OP if it were me putting it in a wall and I couldn’t see the top inch, I would probably do the following:

- Normal frame, not rimless or eurobraced
- For $277 3/4” glass is an easy decision but I would also be fine with 5/8” if it was a normal frame however:
- I would really want tempered (3/4” bonus) on the bottom
- Starphire front and right side

If the top of the tank is exposed I would be more inclined to go rimless and do 3/4” all around. Probably significantly more expense.

The flush overflow is cool but I probably wouldn’t spend more than a couple hundred for it over a normal bulkhead external overflow. The bulkheads don’t take up much room at all and you’ll have pumps on that wall also so it won’t be completely void and clean looking anyway.

 

[Tuffloud1]

Probably just ignorant but I’ve never seen an overflow like that, just the traditional bulkhead style, that’s really cool.

As for the OP if it were me putting it in a wall and I couldn’t see the top inch, I would probably do the following:

- Normal frame, not rimless or eurobraced
- For $277 3/4” glass is an easy decision but I would also be fine with 5/8” if it was a normal frame however:
- I would really want tempered (3/4” bonus) on the bottom
- Starphire front and right side

If the top of the tank is exposed I would be more inclined to go rimless and do 3/4” all around. Probably significantly more expense.

The flush overflow is cool but I probably wouldn’t spend more than a couple hundred for it over a normal bulkhead external overflow. The bulkheads don’t take up much room at all and you’ll have pumps on that wall also so it won’t be completely void and clean looking anyway.

Thank you very much for the advice. This helps a lot!

As far as tempering goes, is there any reason to temper the back panel since it would be drilled? I had another builder say that if the glass is drilled, he likes to temper it.

Since it’s in the wall, would you go with holes drilled for the returns are not and just go up and over with the plumbing?

 

[JoshH]

Probably just ignorant but I’ve never seen an overflow like that, just the traditional bulkhead style, that’s really cool.

As for the OP if it were me putting it in a wall and I couldn’t see the top inch, I would probably do the following:

- Normal frame, not rimless or eurobraced
- For $277 3/4” glass is an easy decision but I would also be fine with 5/8” if it was a normal frame however:
- I would really want tempered (3/4” bonus) on the bottom
- Starphire front and right side

If the top of the tank is exposed I would be more inclined to go rimless and do 3/4” all around. Probably significantly more expense.

The flush overflow is cool but I probably wouldn’t spend more than a couple hundred for it over a normal bulkhead external overflow. The bulkheads don’t take up much room at all and you’ll have pumps on that wall also so it won’t be completely void and clean looking anyway.

It's pretty much the stock Miracles overflow and is included in the pricing of the tank. An external bulkhead style would cost whatever extra you pay for one ($2-300) most people go the bulkhead route. I figured why not do something a little different. Plus it's the slimmest overflow out there and with it being Peninsula style and viewed from each side it looks a lot less bulky.

Thank you very much for the advice. This helps a lot!

As far as tempering goes, is there any reason to temper the back panel since it would be drilled? I had another builder say that if the glass is drilled, he likes to temper it.

Since it’s in the wall, would you go with holes drilled for the returns are not and just go up and over with the plumbing?

You could go over the top and add a couple sea swirls. Obviously the less holes in the glass the better. At that point it comes down to what you're happy with look wise. If you do have it drilled I would say get it tempered, most builders will insist on this anyway

 

[Matt Carden]

On the topic of scrapers, I use the flipper which doesn't have a sharp blade and plows through everything it has come in contact with.

As for the low iron glass, I have a
150 SCA which is supposed to have low iron "starfire" glass. I have noticed several scratches probably from picking up sand in a cleaning sponge before I got the flipper. I am not too sure how low iron this glass really is though because I see green when I look at the edges of the panels.

 

[Potatohead]

I would do what the builder suggests, if they want to temper the drilled panels, do it. I would also only run returns over the top if you use a traditional top frame, and you can’t really see them from the viewing sides. If it was actually my tank though I’d probably just drill the panel on each side of the overflow for them.

 

[Tuffloud1]

Would 1 Synergy Shadow overflow be enough for a 260 gallon tank or would I need 2?

I’m trying to decide on 2 Synergy Shadow boxes or 1 large Modular Marine overflow centered.

Custom Aquariums is really pushing their own H2O overflow or the Synergy Shadow.

I don’t like the look of the H2O because you see the bulkhead.

I don’t like the idea of having 2 Shadow overflows which doubles the amount of plumbing.

I’m really liking the idea of 1 large Modular Marine low profile overflow - their 3600 model or custom made mounted at the center of the back glass.

What are your thoughts? Thanks

 

[JoshH]

Would 1 Synergy Shadow overflow be enough for a 260 gallon tank or would I need 2?

I’m trying to decide on 2 Synergy Shadow boxes or 1 large Modular Marine overflow centered.

Custom Aquariums is really pushing their own H2O overflow or the Synergy Shadow.

I don’t like the look of the H2O because you see the bulkhead.

I don’t like the idea of having 2 Shadow overflows which doubles the amount of plumbing.

I’m really liking the idea of 1 large Modular Marine low profile overflow - their 3600 model or custom made mounted at the center of the back glass.

What are your thoughts? Thanks

I'd say go with your gut and get the Modular Marine. It will probably be a wait for it but you'll be happy you did

 

[Potatohead]

Would 1 Synergy Shadow overflow be enough for a 260 gallon tank or would I need 2?

I’m trying to decide on 2 Synergy Shadow boxes or 1 large Modular Marine overflow centered.

Custom Aquariums is really pushing their own H2O overflow or the Synergy Shadow.

I don’t like the look of the H2O because you see the bulkhead.

I don’t like the idea of having 2 Shadow overflows which doubles the amount of plumbing.

I’m really liking the idea of 1 large Modular Marine low profile overflow - their 3600 model or custom made mounted at the center of the back glass.

What are your thoughts? Thanks

They say one 16" shadow is enough for 2500 gph which is tons. You only really need maybe 1000.

 

[Tuffloud1]

They say one 16" shadow is enough for 2500 gph which is tons. You only really need maybe 1000.

That’s funny because Modular Marine is recommending nothing less than their 3600 model for my size tank.