Purple Firefish

[iced98lx]

I agree with your assumptions surrounding the LFS but you can consider matching inbound salinity to reduce stress and then raise it after QT/Treatment as well. I've done that for particularly touchy fish, match the salinity and temp, faster acclimation to QT, get the eating, treat and then slowly bring the salinity up.

 

[Heavymman]

Also, @Humblefish in one of the threads reccomends not dosing bacteria during copper treatment. I might be wrong but that’s what I was going off of..... lol I’m sorry, just trying to pick up any information I can...

 

[Heavymman]

I agree with your assumptions surrounding the LFS but you can consider matching inbound salinity to reduce stress and then raise it after QT/Treatment as well. I've done that for particularly touchy fish, match the salinity and temp, faster acclimation to QT, get the eating, treat and then slowly bring the salinity up.

I would via drip from a LFS but dealing with velvet as bad as they had, I think I need to get the fish treated as fast as possible. If you buy fish online I read that salinity should be the last of your concern since ammonia trapped in the bag will readily become very poisonish once you open the bag up to air. That said, salinity Change would be less of the two evils.... not sure of the validity just what I read.

 

[HotRocks]

The Furan-2 says to remove it

It's ok to have sponge. You just don't want carbon.

 

[iced98lx]

I would via drip from a LFS but dealing with velvet as bad as they had, I think I need to get the fish treated as fast as possible. If you buy fish online I read that salinity should be the last of your concern since ammonia trapped in the bag will readily become very poisonish once you open the bag up to air. That said, salinity Change would be less of the two evils.... not sure of the validity just what I read.

Everyone believes something different, and every online place has different "best practice" rules for how to acclimate the livestock you get from them. I've seen people who only match temp and dump and go, I've seen people that drip for hours, and everything in between (and I've seen fish die and be successful with all those methods). If you're in a situation where you want to treat right now match salinity of their water with yours prior to purchasing, match temp via float, then open and dump gets the fish in your system the fastest with the least number of changes.

 

[Heavymman]

Everyone believes something different, and every online place has different "best practice" rules for how to acclimate the livestock you get from them. I've seen people who only match temp and dump and go, I've seen people that drip for hours, and everything in between (and I've seen fish die and be successful with all those methods). If you're in a situation where you want to treat right now match salinity of their water with yours prior to purchasing, match temp via float, then open and dump gets the fish in your system the fastest with the least number of changes.

Agreed, I guess I should of matched the QT water as best as possible with a water change...

 

[Humblefish]

Also, @Humblefish in one of the threads reccomends not dosing bacteria during copper treatment. I might be wrong but that’s what I was going off of..... lol I’m sorry, just trying to pick up any information I can...

It makes it difficult, because copper will kill off most of the nitrifying bacteria before they can properly seed. So, I prefer to seed my QT biomedia in a bucket for a week or so if the QT has already been dosed with copper.

 

[Heavymman]

It makes it difficult, because copper will kill off most of the nitrifying bacteria before they can properly seed. So, I prefer to seed my QT biomedia in a bucket for a week or so if the QT has already been dosed with copper.

Understood, I started seeding a new one in my dry rock curing bin downstairs.... I threw it out while doing the water change today , but if you figure I will be doing a water change Wednesday and Saturday, hopefully ammonia stays 0 and I will put the newly seeded one in on Saturday after Furan-2 is complete.

 

[Big G]

The Furan-2 says to remove it

Some of the filter materials that people are using have either carbon inside the pad or it has a treatment on it like Polyfilter, that will remove your meds and copper if you leave them in the typical HOB filter while dosing meds/copper. Plain pads are ok. Like to have a soaked pad in the HOB, soaked ceramic media in the HOB, and a soaked foam bubbler, all going at once so if the meds or copper reduce the good bacteria a bit, with all three in there, it's usually not a problem with ammonia build up.
Do you have a seachem ammonia alert badge in there, I can't remember?

 

[Big G]

I agree with your assumptions surrounding the LFS but you can consider matching inbound salinity to reduce stress and then raise it after QT/Treatment as well. I've done that for particularly touchy fish, match the salinity and temp, faster acclimation to QT, get the eating, treat and then slowly bring the salinity up.

+1 on this ^^^. I usually keep my QT at 1.020 because of shippers and LFS seem to use that or near that salinity, so it's easy to go up or usually down a bit to match the condition for new incoming fish. And I leave it there for the entire copper dosage period. After the copper is removed, slowly raise the salinity up to match the DT.

 

[Big G]

I would via drip from a LFS but dealing with velvet as bad as they had, I think I need to get the fish treated as fast as possible. If you buy fish online I read that salinity should be the last of your concern since ammonia trapped in the bag will readily become very poisonish once you open the bag up to air. That said, salinity Change would be less of the two evils.... not sure of the validity just what I read.

IMO it's real important to match the salinity. Poke a small hole just big enough to get a sample from the new bag of fish. Tape the hole shut. Adjust your QT. It's pretty easy and fast. You don't want your fish going through osmotic shock due to a drastic salinity change, especially going from low to high. Works for me. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Heavymman]

Some of the filter materials that people are using have either carbon inside the pad or it has a treatment on it like Polyfilter, that will remove your meds and copper if you leave them in the typical HOB filter while dosing meds/copper. Plain pads are ok. Like to have a soaked pad in the HOB, soaked ceramic media in the HOB, and a soaked foam bubbler, all going at once so if the meds or copper reduce the good bacteria a bit, with all three in there, it's usually not a problem with ammonia build up.
Do you have a seachem ammonia alert badge in there, I can't remember?

Yea fortunately I do but I will be out most of the day tomorrow..... I hate when the instructions to something like the furan-2 makes me do something stupid. I had two sponges filled with bacteria that I threw out against my instinct. I have one curing with my dry rock bin, added some microbact-7 and sol fish food to get the sponge going. Hopefully I can make it 48 hrs before first water change.

 

[Big G]

Yea fortunately I do but I will be out most of the day tomorrow..... I had when the instructions to something like the furan-2 makes me do something stupid. I had two sponges filled with bacteria that I threw out against my instinct. I have one curing with my dry rock bin, added some microbact-7 and sol fish food to get the sponge going. Hopefully I can make it 48 hrs before first water change.

You'll probably be ok with just those two small clowns in there regards the ammonia. It really becomes a problem with medium to large fish in at QT.

 

[Rakie]

Some of the filter materials that people are using have either carbon inside the pad or it has a treatment on it like Polyfilter, that will remove your meds and copper if you leave them in the typical HOB filter while dosing meds/copper.

This is what I think Furan-2 was referring to specifically. Anything else will not affect the meds.

 

[Heavymman]

This is what I think Furan-2 was referring to specifically. Anything else will not affect the meds.

Why don’t they specifically speak to that than.... I think most of us in the hobby know what dif types of filtration we have... soooo annoying lol

 

[Heavymman]

And btw @Rakie your build is beautiful!

 

[Rakie]

Thanks!

They could be worried about die off, that it may collapse a bacteria colony in a small area causing loss of oxygen, harming fish. Could be that they're afraid the average user doesn't know that filter media is then laden with copper, and would crash their reef if it was put back into the tank. Sadly, when designing products like this, it has to broadly give directions that can't be mixed up. If Step 1 is throw away filter, you don't have to worry about people trying to re-use and destroy their reefs.

 

[Heavymman]

Thanks!

They could be worried about die off, that it may collapse a bacteria colony in a small area causing loss of oxygen, harming fish. Could be that they're afraid the average user doesn't know that filter media is then laden with copper, and would crash their reef if it was put back into the tank. Sadly, when designing products like this, it has to broadly give directions that can't be mixed up. If Step 1 is throw away filter, you don't have to worry about people trying to re-use and destroy their reefs.

Cross your fingers I make it through the 4 doses and 2 water changes reccommended... by then my sponge in the dry rock curing bin should have enough bacteria to throw in on Saturday.... and then it should be smooth sailing lol. And who would want to add meds to their reefs for fish.... just saying don’t think that would be smart even if it’s “reef safe”

 

[Rakie]

Cross your fingers I make it through the 4 doses and 2 water changes reccommended... by then my sponge in the dry rock curing bin should have enough bacteria to throw in on Saturday.... and then it should be smooth sailing lol. And who would want to add meds to their reefs for fish.... just saying don’t think that would be smart even if it’s “reef safe”

Hopefully. I also hope it isn't from your tank, or you could be spreading illness.

The problem is the moment you throw that that bio media in the water with copper all the bacteria will die anyways. So it might not help you until after you're 100% done

 

[Big G]

And who would want to add meds to their reefs for fish.... just saying don’t think that would be smart even if it’s “reef safe”

+1 There really aren't any "reef safe" meds.