PVC true union check valve

[jdpeters]

I have my return a little low in my 40 breeder so a little more backflows into my sump than I’m comfortable with. I bought this union and I have it properly orientated but when I test it the union still trickles in the wrong way.

Once I cut it in will the pressure of the aquarium be enough to stop the trickle? When I press very gently down on the valve it stops the flow but it seems like the gentle flow and pressure from the sink isn’t sufficient.

 

[DenverSaltyFarm]

That’s a very good check valve I use it on my frag tanks. Yes it needs the back pressure of water in the pipe to stop the flow properly. Very important to mount vertically to achieve that pressure

 

[BeanAnimal]

If you are relying on that to prevent a flood, you are, without question going to have a flood. Good check valve or not.

 

[jdpeters]

If you are relying on that to prevent a flood, you are, without question going to have a flood. Good check valve or not.

Nope I won’t flood with or without it. I just don’t want my sump to fill that much.

That’s a very good check valve I use it on my frag tanks. Yes it needs the back pressure of water in the pipe to stop the flow properly. Very important to mount vertically to achieve that pressure

I kept tinkering and tinkering before I had the epiphany that it would take a bit of pressure. Thank you!

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

If you are relying on that to prevent a flood, you are, without question going to have a flood. Good check valve or not.

Agreed, check valves are not going to work long term in a reef tank. Organics will grow around the seal and prevent it from doing its job.

 

[BeanAnimal]

PGH zoo and aquarium uses massive inline checks for some of the large tanks where the pumps (rated in tens to hundreds of horsepower) and massive filters are in the basement. The checks don’t prevent floods. They are there to prevent massive back flow that would spin the pumps in reverse, or spin the impellers off of the shafts. This, and keeping pump or pipe sections primed is the primary use case. Think of the sump pump in your basement, the check valve on the discharge prevents the vertical pipe from emptying and retriggering the float in the sump.

 

[jdpeters]

Agreed, check valves are not going to work long term in a reef tank. Organics will grow around the seal and prevent it from doing its job.

I didn’t think of it in that terms. Couldn’t you in theory maintain and clean it?

 

[jdpeters]

PGH zoo and aquarium uses massive inline checks for some of the large tanks where the pumps (rated in tens to hundreds of horsepower) and massive filters are in the basement. The checks don’t prevent floods. They are there to prevent massive back flow that would spin the pumps in reverse, or spin the impellers off of the shafts. This, and keeping pump or pipe sections primed is the primary use case. Think of the sump pump in your basement, the check valve on the discharge prevents the vertical pipe from emptying and retriggering the float in the sump.

With that line of thought, am I wasting my time cutting it in?

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

I didn’t think of it in that terms. Couldn’t you in theory maintain and clean it?

Theoretically, sure. A soak in a mild acid will clean the seals. Maybe even having an extra for "hot swapping".

The question becomes, is it worth the effort of shutting the system down, filling the sump to remove and clean the valve?

I don't know if you're aware. And I'm stepping out on a limb to assume this concern stems from you shutting the return pump off for feeding and possibly maintenance. There are some DC pumps out there that when entered into feed mode, the pump slows down to a trickle and holds water inside the plumping thus keeping water in the display and not filling your sump with all that water.

 

[jdpeters]

Theoretically, sure. A soak in a mild acid will clean the seals. Maybe even having an extra for "hot swapping".

The question becomes, is it worth the effort of shutting the system down, filling the sump to remove and clean the valve?

I don't know if you're aware. And I'm stepping out on a limb to assume this concern stems from you shutting the return pump off for feeding and possibly maintenance. There are some DC pumps out there that when entered into feed mode, the pump slows down to a trickle and holds water inside the plumping thus keeping water in the display and not filling your sump with all that water.

I have a sdc 6, I don’t think it has a feed

 

[jdpeters]

Theoretically, sure. A soak in a mild acid will clean the seals. Maybe even having an extra for "hot swapping".

The question becomes, is it worth the effort of shutting the system down, filling the sump to remove and clean the valve?

I don't know if you're aware. And I'm stepping out on a limb to assume this concern stems from you shutting the return pump off for feeding and possibly maintenance. There are some DC pumps out there that when entered into feed mode, the pump slows down to a trickle and holds water inside the plumping thus keeping water in the display and not filling your sump with all that water.

Actually do you have an opinion, am I wasting my time? It’s most because the sump fills up nearly all the way when the power turns off.

 

[jdpeters]

Theoretically, sure. A soak in a mild acid will clean the seals. Maybe even having an extra for "hot swapping".

The question becomes, is it worth the effort of shutting the system down, filling the sump to remove and clean the valve?

I don't know if you're aware. And I'm stepping out on a limb to assume this concern stems from you shutting the return pump off for feeding and possibly maintenance. There are some DC pumps out there that when entered into feed mode, the pump slows down to a trickle and holds water inside the plumping thus keeping water in the display and not filling your sump with all that water.

Sorry for the spam, it of course has a feed mode

 

[PapaFishRocks]

IMHO, the check valve for this use case isn’t worth it.

DC pump with feed mode is the way to go

And good news, at least your sump doesn’t overflow when pumps are off. I had to learn that lesson the hard way.

 

[jdpeters]

IMHO, the check valve for this use case isn’t worth it.

DC pump with feed mode is the way to go

And good news, at least your sump doesn’t overflow when pumps are off. I had to learn that lesson the hard way.

I barely made it. I learned so much with this diy build. I thought I properly put the return high enough but I guess this is how we learn.

The fact that the valve would restrict flow and be a possible point of failure has made me think I don’t need it

 

[KrisReef]

I barely made it. I learned so much with this diy build. I thought I properly put the return high enough but I guess this is how we learn.

The fact that the valve would restrict flow and be a possible point of failure has made me think I don’t need it

I bought a tank with the return holes drilled to low. I put a couple of 90 fittings to raise the returns towards the surface to break the siphon and inch or so higher. It was uglier than I wanted but it kept the sump from overflowing and the skimmer happy when I went to feed mode.

Check valves have no purpose in my aquarium installations because of their long history of failures. If someone makes a better one I am willing to reevaluate them but in 50 years I have not seen one that is reliable for the aquarium, especially over time in service.

 

[X-37B]

I have always used them to prevent backflow. If it fails, the sump holds the back flow.
I swap it out with a new one every year and clean the old one.
This is 10 months from start and you can't see through it..

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

IMO, just designing the siphon break level to prevent overflowing the sump is the best option. It can never fail.

 

[jdpeters]

IMO, just designing the siphon break level to prevent overflowing the sump is the best option. It can never fail.

The famous Randy Holmes-Farley hot dog lol. Probably some truth to that

I have always used them to prevent backflow. If it fails, the sump holds the back flow.
I swap it out with a new one every year and clean the old one.
This is 10 months from start and you can't see through it..

Nice! It appears there are two different camps on this issue but yet another thing I’m learning about the complexity of this hobby.

I bought a tank with the return holes drilled to low. I put a couple of 90 fittings to raise the returns towards the surface to break the siphon and inch or so higher. It was uglier than I wanted but it kept the sump from overflowing and the skimmer happy when I went to feed mode.

Check valves have no purpose in my aquarium installations because of their long history of failures. If someone makes a better one I am willing to reevaluate them but in 50 years I have not seen one that is reliable for the aquarium, especially over time in service.

appreciate your response. I’m not a huge diy person and this yet another thing I’ve learned building out my own system. Also I thought I’d save a considerate amount of money but honestly if I spent the money up front on a plug and play I’d probably be out the same cash and have less headaches lol

 

[TangerineSpeedo]

I use spears check valves on my builds. I use them because it keeps the returns primed after they turn back on when I feed etc. I do not rely on them to prevent flooding. I swap them out if I start to hear them bounce and clean them.

 

[PapaFishRocks]

IMO, just designing the siphon break level to prevent overflowing the sump is the best option. It can never fail.

Agreed. That’s how I solved my sump overflows.