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on itThose Nitrites are sky high. Just keep up with your water changes and those should come down nicely. I would do multiple 30-50% changes to help cut them down quickly.
BRS 6 Stage Universal Water Saver Plus RO/DI System - 150GPD - I figure it will be the system that will be the best for even if I get a larger tank some day. Thoughts?
Please let me know if it is still patience I need to have or if there is something I need to do to add to the QT to help.
I'm sure that one would be fine. I have a BRS RODI as well and like it well enough. There are several brands out there that are good for this hobby.
Like humble said, it does seem like the tank is cycling. Feels like it's stalled out on you. The nitrates arn't important here though... we just want to see the nitrites go down so we know your tank has cycled. I would switch to a different bacteria in a bottle product in hopes of getting a different strain of bacteria.
May be add it, but I would'nt replace itI have had a sponge seeding in the sump of the DT for about a month now. Would there be benefit to take the one that is in there out and put the other in instead? Or will that backtrack me?
I think your problem is that you have a higher bio load with heavier feeding than your sponge filter can handle. In my opinion you should get a HOB filter and add that to your system. You will still need water changes for your nitrates but that should help your nitrite problem. Don't take your sponge filter off line, just add the HOB.I have had a sponge seeding in the sump of the DT for about a month now. Would there be benefit to take the one that is in there out and put the other in instead? Or will that backtrack me?
I have had a sponge seeding in the sump of the DT for about a month now. Would there be benefit to take the one that is in there out and put the other in instead? Or will that backtrack me?
No. I just have an over the back filter with a black sponge in it and a 20 gallon powerhead. The over the back filter I also have a bio bag in the bottom as well. I have rinsed the black sponge to make sure it isn't getting clogged with food and such as @miyags mentioned. Sailfin and foxface are small, started as babies - only had them since August. I also have 2 fire fish. They seem to eat all of the food pretty quickly. I feed seaweed in the morning and then mysis shrimp at night. Sometimes I feed pellets instead of shrimp. I am including pics of the QT filter I have running. No carbon because I was waiting to treat with copper. In the back, you can see the black sponge sticking up, bio bag under it. the front is an extra ammonia reducer sponge. I change it often, but not sure I need it with the ammonia being at zero. @Humblefish do i need to get a filter like what you posted and add that too?Just so we're sure about this... You are using an air driven sponge filter in QT, correct? Like the one below:
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the front is an extra ammonia reducer sponge. I change it often, but not sure I need it with the ammonia being at zero.
First.... my apologies, I thought you said you used a sponge filter. I may have led the conversation down the wrong path. The HOB filter you are using should be more than enough for your system.
I'm not a fan of artificial ammonia reducers since we want bacteria to consume it not for it to be removed. That said, bacteria are converting the ammonia to nitrite so it's hard to see where this could be the problem. Using Stability pretty well eliminates the possibility that the bacteria was too old or had seen temperature extremes.
I've used Biospira in my QT with a similar HOB filter and haven't had any problems.
I have spent a very large amount of time studying the biology behind how a tank cycles lately. During this research I have seen quite a few posts about fresh water aquarium that were cycled using Stability that had high nitrites but none with salt water. Of course, this could be due to people with salt water fish being less susceptible to nitrite poisoning. As others have pointed out, high nitrites are much less an issue in salt water aquarium than fresh water. In my opinion you should try a different bacteria in a bottle product or add the sponge from you DT to your QT (only because you haven't treated your QT yet).
*** Warning!!! Nerd Alert!!! The following is information I love but really doesn't matter!***
Fortunately for marine aquarists, nitrites and chlorides use the same absorption receptors in fish. Sea water is almost 19,000ppm chlorides (table salt is sodium chloride). Even with water at 19ppm nitrite a marine fish is absorbing 1000 chloride molecules for every one nitrite molecule. In a fresh water aquarium as little as 1ppm nitrite can be lethal to a fish since it will absorb almost all of the nitrites available.
It is 125 GPH. I would think it would be plenty. Just ordered the aquaforest np pro for the new bacteria. It will be here thursday. hopefully that will help.I agree with @Brew12 and @melypr1985, try a different bacteria in a bottle product. Because what you are running should be enough for that bio-load.
What model # Aqueon do you have? Do you know what the GPH flow rate is for it? Just wondering if a lack of flow is the limiting factor here.
That is fantastic! You do know that keeping coral is supposed to be the hard part of this hobby, right? o_OIt is 125 GPH. I would think it would be plenty. Just ordered the aquaforest np pro for the new bacteria. It will be here thursday. hopefully that will help.
The good news: tested the DT tonight - just like @Humblefish told me to do - learn how to do everything manually. I have the API Reef and Saltwater master kits . . . tested EVERYTHING tonight - All was PERFECT! Phosphates at .25/.5 (do I need to do something about that?) and Nitrates around 10/20 ppm, but not bad at all! I am growing some corals while it runs fallow, and they are doing AWESOME. Had to share a little success too! :)
Hahaha - the corals have been GREAT! I have 3 zoos, a hammer coral, an acan, 2 new stick coral frags from a friends tank, a mushroom cluster and another polyp of some sort (its ugly but it was my first one). They are all growing and doing well. I will post pics tomorrow! :) Tank was set up in July. I got bad advice from an "expert" friend. @melypr1985 and @Humblefish have kind of followed my short and very intense and frustrating journey. The friend told me freshwater TAP water changes were fine. So that is how the entire tank was actually set up along with the first 2 water changes. The second water change after stocking my tank with 12 fish . . . yeah . . . uh huh. you heard me . . . . friend who works at a well known saltwater store said it was fine . . . ultimately resulted in a huge outbreak of ich. I lost a splendid pseudo, blue jaw trigger, both my clowns, flame angel, blue hippo. I saved my fox face, sailfin and 2 firefish in a panic expensive weekend to set up a QT as fast as possible. So to be on the mend is quite the relief. And now I know a LOT more than most beginners because I have learned the hard way. And I hope to help so that no one else has to go through this kind of loss. I QT all of my corals as well as coral dip no matter HOW much I trust the vendor, and have a set up now, obviously to QT all fish. Just thought you might like some of my story @Brew12 and let you know how much I appreciate your help and feedback along with the others. I would have torn it down and given up by now if it weren't for all of you! :)That is fantastic! You do know that keeping coral is supposed to be the hard part of this hobby, right? o_O
I wouldn't worry about the phosphates if they aren't causing you problems. I don't recall how old your tank is but it is very common for younger aquariums to leach phosphates out of the rock. One of the many contributors to the "ugly" phase new aquariums are supposed to go through.