Quarantine already quarantined fish?

[Tmcgoo13]

Even if you don't want to prophylactically medicate fish which have already been quarantined, I would still observe in QT for one month. This allows enough time for most diseases to present themselves, and as an added bonus you get to strengthen & condition your new specimen before he joins your other fish in the DT. Who will probably be less than thrilled with the arrival of another fish in their territory.

If you don't like the bare bottom/rockless QT concept, then setup a mini-version of your DT to observe new fish. Just be sure to have another tank on hand (plus all equipment) to medicate in, if the need arises.

The successful QT I've done has been just as you describe. Healthy fish, in a 10G bare bottom tank, no mediations, just observed them for 4 weeks. I did eventually put a little decoration in it, so it wasn't so bare. But again the fish were healthy already.

I have two 10G that I can use for this purpose and won't be used otherwise. Just really bummed about the fish I just lost. Thanks for all the great info and suggestions

 

[57hornet]

I have a question, not sure if this is the best place to ask, but since it is about QT I will ask it here. I am starting a new tank and have been doing quite a bit of research. Regarding QT I plan to follow Humble Fish's technique/recommendations (the single tank method). Additionally, I plan to follow his recommendation for QTing corals. My question is, can anyone recommend a good, but inexpensive, light for a coral QT. I do not want to harm the coral by starving them during the QT. I am going to have Mitras LX 7s on the DT, but do not really want to spend that kind of money for a tank that will only hold them for two and a half months? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide, and if I should have asked this somewhere else I apologize.

 

[Humblefish]

My question is, can anyone recommend a good, but inexpensive, light for a coral QT. I do not want to harm the coral by starving them during the QT. I am going to have Mitras LX 7s on the DT, but do not really want to spend that kind of money for a tank that will only hold them for two and a half months? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide, and if I should have asked this somewhere else I apologize.

What size coral QT will you have? Any 4-bulb T5 light should be fine - see my Current USA 24" fixture below. I can even grow acropora near the top.

 

[57hornet]

I am planning on a 29 gallon for my fish QT and considering doing the same for a coral QT, but that is not set it stone, what would you recommend?

 

[Humblefish]

I am planning on a 29 gallon for my fish QT and considering doing the same for a coral QT, but that is not set it stone, what would you recommend?

This: https://www.amazon.com/Coralife-Aqualight-Output-Fixture-30-Inch/dp/B0049PMT6K/

The only problem with the 30" fixture is you are stuck with Coralife's 30" bulbs. The 24" fixture (currently out of stock) would give you more options (e.g. ATI) in 12-18 months when it's time to replace the bulbs.

Now, if you want a cheap LED that should last 5 years without having to worry about changing any bulbs then I suggest this: https://www.amazon.com/Galaxyhydro-55x3w-Dimmable-Spectrum-Aquarium/dp/B00INM0J1M/

^^ But you'll also need to build a DIY stand or hang it from the ceiling (as pictured). Also, after 2-3 years the diodes will start to lose some of their intensity so you'll constantly have to "dial the lights up" in order to compensate for that. But not too much or you'll bleach your corals. Having to mess with all that is why I've mainly stuck with T5 and MH lighting, because I'd rather just pay for new bulbs/lamps every 12-18 months.

 

[Humblefish]

Apologies to the OP for hijacking this thread. I can move this coral QT lighting question & answer to a new thread if you want.

 

[57hornet]

I am sorry it is really my fault since I asked the questions.

 

[Lovetoclown]

I've stocked my 300g tank with fish from LA. Even some bad shipper fish. I have had really good results with LA fish and the few that didn't survive they replace for free. But all there fish ship at about 1.017 salinity. So I set up my qt tanks to that salinity and adjust as necessary when I get the fish, and my top of water is 1.026. I observe and treat as needed. Gives the fish time to get up to my display salinity, as well as fatten them up before they meet there new roommates. But I will always qt. I have not gotten any from LA with ich, but I have gotten fish with velvet.

 

[CindyKz]

Even if you don't want to prophylactically medicate fish which have already been quarantined, I would still observe in QT for one month. This allows enough time for most diseases to present themselves, and as an added bonus you get to strengthen & condition your new specimen before he joins your other fish in the DT. Who will probably be less than thrilled with the arrival of another fish in their territory.

If you don't like the bare bottom/rockless QT concept, then setup a mini-version of your DT to observe new fish. Just be sure to have another tank on hand (plus all equipment) to medicate in, if the need arises.

After seeing several fish get stressed and mysteriously stop eating, not to mention I had constant water quality issues using a bare bottom, PVC only QT I switched to this method. I maintain a 20 gal tank with a HOB filter, inexpensive powerhead, and some live rock with a few hermits and observe new additions for 4-6 weeks.

If I get a fish with a parasite the tank can easily remain fallow. I keep spare 10 gal tanks on hand in the event that I have to move a fish for treatment.

This has worked really well so far. We are all much less stressed!

 

[monkiboy]

to answer your original question...Yes.

specifically with experience with LA and LADD per your original post, i've received fish with ich, velvet, flukes, gram negative bacterial infections, etc from both. quarantine and prophylactic treatment is highly suggested.