Quarantine Tank

[Learner123]

Hi,

I’ve been extensively researching all aspects of saltwater aquariums, but find myself struggling to grasp the quarantine tank process. I was hoping someone can help with a few questions.

1. Would folks recommend simply purchasing the attached tank to support clowns, blennies and other small fish during quarantine?
2. Can I introduce nitrifying bacteria by simply adding cycled water from my main tank into the quarantine tank?
3. If so, will that suffice or do I also need to introduce sponge filters that have been given the appropriate time to cycle and grow nitrifying bacteria? (I haven’t introduced sponge filters to the tank yet and trying to avoid waiting a whole month to have them colonized by bacteria)
4. Currently, I have no fish in my main tank and am about to complete the nitrogen cycle. Can I skip the quarantine process for the first 2 fish?
5. If I skip QT and things go south, does that mean I will have to replace my sand, rock and water - or - just the water?

Thanks in advance!

 

[davidcalgary29]

The proposed tank is fine, and is attractive if you don't have any extra equipment lying around. You could probably build your own quarantine for half the price, though.

I wouldn't skip the quarantine process for any fish that you want to put into the display. If one of the them is infected, you'll have to then catch all the fish, put them in quarantine, and let the display for up to 72 days. You just don't want to start out your aquarium with the added stress of disease and potential heartbreak of losing the first fish you try to keep.

 

[muzikalmatt]

Hi @Learner123 and welcome to Reef2Reef! Great to see you're starting out by quarantining your fish as that is a great way to protect your investment and prevent introducing disease/parasites into your tank.

1. That tank will be just fine for quarantining your fish assuming you aren't wanting larger fish. Larger tangs might need a 20 gallon or more, but for most fish that setup will work just fine.
2. Adding water from your cycled tank will definitely help. You could also put some bioballs (the plastic ones, not ceramic) in your display to populate them with nitrifying bacteria and then put that in your quarantine tanks HOB filter.
3. You don't necessarily have to cycle your quarantine tank. You can add a Seachem ammonia badge (and/or test for ammonia as well) and just do large water changes as needed to keep the ammonia levels down. With a 10 gallon tank, that's not too difficult assuming you can make your own RODI and saltwater.
4. I would not recommend skipping the quarantine on any fish, even your first one.
5. As @davidcalgary29 stated, if you do introduce something into your tank (like ich or velvet), you'll have to remove all of the fish and let the tank sit fallow (fishless) for at least 72 days to allow the parasites to die off before adding any fish back into the tank. You don't need to remove the water or any rocks, corals, etc, just the fish as that's what the parasites need to survive and continue to reproduce. If you remove the host, they eventually die off.

 

[ariellemermaid]

Hi,

I’ve been extensively researching all aspects of saltwater aquariums, but find myself struggling to grasp the quarantine tank process. I was hoping someone can help with a few questions.

1. Would folks recommend simply purchasing the attached tank to support clowns, blennies and other small fish during quarantine?
2. Can I introduce nitrifying bacteria by simply adding cycled water from my main tank into the quarantine tank?
3. If so, will that suffice or do I also need to introduce sponge filters that have been given the appropriate time to cycle and grow nitrifying bacteria? (I haven’t introduced sponge filters to the tank yet and trying to avoid waiting a whole month to have them colonized by bacteria)
4. Currently, I have no fish in my main tank and am about to complete the nitrogen cycle. Can I skip the quarantine process for the first 2 fish?
5. If I skip QT and things go south, does that mean I will have to replace my sand, rock and water - or - just the water?

Thanks in advance!

1) Sure that could work just fine. I bought a similar bundle but a 20g and I think I only paid $40-50, so be on the lookout for deals. This was before supply chain issues and hyperinflation though. I did end up upgrading the filter to a Tidal 75 because I wasn’t sure if there was enough flow. In retrospect I’m not sure it was necessary especially considering I have an airstone too (particularly when dosing prazi).

2) No, water alone won’t get you instant-cycled but a seeded sponge or media (1+ months) from another tank can get you close. Just watch ammonia really carefully and I always have Prime on hand for emergencies. Also keep in mind that ammonia tests aren’t reliable once adding copper, so you should consider verifying your cycle before adding copper. Other option is strict frequent large water changes but 1) that’s high maintenance and 2) it’s going to be really difficult to keep the copper level stable. And if it dips below target just once, clock resets.

3) See link below.

4) No. Well, you can do what you want. But if you’re going for ich eradication every single fish must be QT’d. I also QT all corals and inverts in another tank. I chose to take the risk with my first 2 fish but I got them pre-quarantined. I got away with it but they did have stringy poop I had to treat. I wouldn’t do that again, too much risk now with a stocked tank.

5) None of the above. But you will have to chase down every single fish, no exceptions, and remove them to QT tank(s) for treatment. Then let the DT go with no fish for 72-76 days or 6 weeks if you can keep the temp >80.6F and your corals/inverts tolerate that.

This link is a good starting point for someone starting down a QT journey:

How To - Quarantine

How to Setup a Quarantine Tank (updated 4-6-2023) The following are the essentials: Aquarium (10-30 gallons seems to work for most people. A larger QT lets you house more fish and gives you more wiggle room when it comes to ammonia. A smaller QT is cheaper, easier to maintain and can be...

humble.fish

 

[ariellemermaid]

I want to add since I mentioned Prime for emergencies that it’s controversial with copper. Definitely do not use Prime with unchealted copper; it makes the copper much more toxic (by like a factor of 10 if I recall). Copper Power is reportedly safe with Prime and has been anecdotally used safely by many including Humblefish.

However, these issues are why whenever I add new fish I wait a week or two before adding copper to make sure the tank is cycled with no ammonia issues. Then you don’t need to worry about it again. So when I say for emergencies I’m mostly talking about pre-copper cycling.

 

[davidcalgary29]

I want to add since I mentioned Prime for emergencies that it’s controversial with copper. Definitely do not use Prime with unchealted copper; it makes the copper much more toxic (by like a factor of 10 if I recall). Copper Power is reportedly safe with Prime and has been anecdotally used safely by many including Humblefish.

However, these issues are why whenever I add new fish I wait a week or two before adding copper to make sure the tank is cycled with no ammonia issues. Then you don’t need to worry about it again. So when I say for emergencies I’m mostly talking about pre-copper cycling.

I've used Prime while also using Copper Power, and had no problems with it.

 

[Projects with Sam]

Second-hand is also a viable QT solution. There are usually tons of deals on OfferUp. I don't recommend craigslist because of all the scammers. With OfferUp, aside from an in-person meeting, you stay anonymous (they don't have your address or email or phone number) just your in-app handle. And most Police stations have parking areas for exchanging items.

 

[Projects with Sam]

I've had luck with imagitarium Biological Booster, Seachem Prime/AmGuard to bridge the gap while waiting for sponges.

 

[Learner123]

Thank you very much for your feedback! Appreciate the advice about NOT skipping the quarantine phase for even the first fish.

Considering that I am a month away from establishing a seeded sponge/media, will dosing the QT tank with Dr Tims Nitrifying Bacteria (and adding a bio-media to the tank) sustain the tank for the quarantine period? It appears the article posted above indicates that, but just want to ensure I am interpreting it correctly.

 

[ariellemermaid]

Thank you very much for your feedback! Appreciate the advice about NOT skipping the quarantine phase for even the first fish.

Considering that I am a month away from establishing a seeded sponge/media, will dosing the QT tank with Dr Tims Nitrifying Bacteria (and adding a bio-media to the tank) sustain the tank for the quarantine period? It appears the article posted above indicates that, but just want to ensure I am interpreting it correctly.

Story time; here is how my first QT unfolded.

I believed 2 things from my countless hours of online research. 1) I could instant cycle by adding dry media/sponges plus live active bacteria (in my case Turbostart but Dr. Tim’s is the other option. 2) That I could trust the seachem ammonia badge. I was wrong on both accounts. 3 small fish (2 clowns and a Dottyback) were dead within a week.

Regarding the instacycle I’m sure I would have been fine if I’d used Prime and checked ammonia with a standard test. But I wasn’t even aware of Prime at the time and the ammonia badge was solid yellow. So when the fish started struggling I figured something else was wrong (some disease, not enough flow for oxygen, etc.). It’s not that these bottled bacterias don’t work, it’s just that you shouldn’t trust them to work instantly. So daily testing, plus Prime as a bridge if you notice ammonia. If you look at Dr. Tim’s cycling recipe even they expect it to take a few weeks to be able to process 1ppm of ammonia.

Regarding the Seachem ammonia badge I’m not sure what to say. It was yellow, but when I did a standard test ammonia was quite high. I cycled my DT using 1ppm Dr. Tim’s ammonia and that badge barely changed color too. Now, the badge only registers free ammonia which is the most toxic to fish. When you add ammonia to a tank a lot of it will get bound by other minerals and only a portion will be “free.” So I can’t say they don’t work at all. Only that based on my experience the badge was not reflective of ammonia conditions which killed 3 fish. So I just wouldn’t trust them that way again which is why I now cycle first, then move on to copper. Now my QT has been going continuously for like 2 years so it stays cycled, but if I increase the bioload or have a fallow period I keep a close eye on the ammonia.

Also, since no one has mentioned it, I highly recommend the Hanna Copper checker. If you’re only going to buy one, that’s the one I’d buy. You need to know exactly where your copper is at. Too much is toxic, too little and ich might skate through. I just wouldn’t trust my interpretation of a color card when dosing a toxic metal.

 

[SteveMac84]

I kept mine simple after getting information here. 10 gallon. Leftover HOB fluval filter with bio media. Heater. Thermometer. PVC Hiding places. Small air stone . Ammonia badge And a clip on light. Simple and effective. Have used it to QT two new arrivals so far. Easy to upkeep. Added a lid just in case LOL

 

[SteveMac84]

Hi,

I’ve been extensively researching all aspects of saltwater aquariums, but find myself struggling to grasp the quarantine tank process. I was hoping someone can help with a few questions.

1. Would folks recommend simply purchasing the attached tank to support clowns, blennies and other small fish during quarantine?
2. Can I introduce nitrifying bacteria by simply adding cycled water from my main tank into the quarantine tank?
3. If so, will that suffice or do I also need to introduce sponge filters that have been given the appropriate time to cycle and grow nitrifying bacteria? (I haven’t introduced sponge filters to the tank yet and trying to avoid waiting a whole month to have them colonized by bacteria)
4. Currently, I have no fish in my main tank and am about to complete the nitrogen cycle. Can I skip the quarantine process for the first 2 fish?
5. If I skip QT and things go south, does that mean I will have to replace my sand, rock and water - or - just the water?

Thanks in advance!

Good luck in your journey.

 

[Learner123]

Thanks everyone - one more question:

How many small fish (approximately) can a 30 gallon tank typically hold?

My hope was to have a goby, 2 clowns, a blenny and 2 Bengaii cardinal fish. The employee at my local fish store said to max out at 3

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

i have 5 in my 32 gallon and consider that maxed, thats just me. If you read the forum you'll see lots of mentions of peeps having 4-5 fish in 13.5 gallon. There is no hard and fast rule, to each his own I guess.

To me, your list of 6 fish looks fine

 

[Learner123]

Thank you!

 

[ariellemermaid]

i have 5 in my 32 gallon and consider that maxed, thats just me. If you read the forum you'll see lots of mentions of peeps having 4-5 fish in 13.5 gallon. There is no hard and fast rule, to each his own I guess.

To me, your list of 6 fish looks fine

It also depends on the size of the fish. I’ve seen some massive clowns, for instance, but they take a long time to grow that big if you can even keep them alive that long. But, by that time you’ll probably have upgraded a few times anyway. Once you’ve put all the work in for a 30 you’ll soon realize a 60 or 100 isn’t any more work but you can add new stuff.

So rather than focusing on the number of fish I would focus on size, lifestyle and aggression. We like to start small and watch them grow. The clowns will be a bit territorial over an area so try to stick with peaceful types especially for a smaller tank (I would recommend considering a matched pair, otherwise pairing can be hit or miss). Cardinals will just peacefully do their thing in the middle of the water column (if they get along with each other that is- our pajamas hate each other). Blenny will find a hole and just dart out to peck at the rocks or feed and go back in, repeat all day long. Goby should just burrow in the sand and live there perching out (although we had to get a randal’s shrimp before our YWG would stop free swimming, now some weeks he doesn’t even poke out at all).

Others I think would be good for small tanks:
Baby clown goby; mostly hides and perches, doesn’t bother and isn’t bothered by anyone, still really small after 2 years.
Transparent cave Goby; just scoots along the sand all day, nobody pays him any mind.
Royal gramma has also been a good addition for us; small, shares the feeding station with clowns and cardinals, pretty pop of color. However I have read they can be more on the semi aggressive side, just not our experience.

So anyway, my point is to think about the total length or weight of fish. Perhaps more importantly (since you’re rightfully not thinking about any big fish (tang)) is to think about where they live in the tank and how they eat. So long as they like to live in different kinds of areas, aggression should be minimal as they won’t see each other as a threat. Lots of rock and hiding places really helps too.

 

[Learner123]

It also depends on the size of the fish. I’ve seen some massive clowns, for instance, but they take a long time to grow that big if you can even keep them alive that long. But, by that time you’ll probably have upgraded a few times anyway. Once you’ve put all the work in for a 30 you’ll soon realize a 60 or 100 isn’t any more work but you can add new stuff.

So rather than focusing on the number of fish I would focus on size, lifestyle and aggression. We like to start small and watch them grow. The clowns will be a bit territorial over an area so try to stick with peaceful types especially for a smaller tank (I would recommend considering a matched pair, otherwise pairing can be hit or miss). Cardinals will just peacefully do their thing in the middle of the water column (if they get along with each other that is- our pajamas hate each other). Blenny will find a hole and just dart out to peck at the rocks or feed and go back in, repeat all day long. Goby should just burrow in the sand and live there perching out (although we had to get a randal’s shrimp before our YWG would stop free swimming, now some weeks he doesn’t even poke out at all).

Others I think would be good for small tanks:
Baby clown goby; mostly hides and perches, doesn’t bother and isn’t bothered by anyone, still really small after 2 years.
Transparent cave Goby; just scoots along the sand all day, nobody pays him any mind.
Royal gramma has also been a good addition for us; small, shares the feeding station with clowns and cardinals, pretty pop of color. However I have read they can be more on the semi aggressive side, just not our experience.

So anyway, my point is to think about the total length or weight of fish. Perhaps more importantly (since you’re rightfully not thinking about any big fish (tang)) is to think about where they live in the tank and how they eat. So long as they like to live in different kinds of areas, aggression should be minimal as they won’t see each other as a threat. Lots of rock and hiding places really helps too.

Thanks - this was helpful!

 

[cpalminteri]

Hi all, jumping on this thread as I have a QT question. I’m currently cycling an Evo 13.5 and I’m a first timer. I really want to QT any fish I end up getting but the reason I went with the 13.5 is because I live in a small apt. Don’t really want to buy another 20 gal now just to quarantine. How small can I go for QT?

 

[Sink_or_Swim]

Hi all, jumping on this thread as I have a QT question. I’m currently cycling an Evo 13.5 and I’m a first timer. I really want to QT any fish I end up getting but the reason I went with the 13.5 is because I live in a small apt. Don’t really want to buy another 20 gal now just to quarantine. How small can I go for QT?

I use a 10 gal. It depends on the type of fish you need to quarantine - mine are all smaller sized.

 

[EricR]

I like the Top Fin "Essentials" kit and actually started with the 37 gallon as my main tank -- HOB power filter from that is still in use today on my current 40 gallon tank.

As someone else stated previously, if you don't already have extra equipment laying around, I think it's a good value since it comes with heater and power filter.

Won't comment on any of the QT aspects but note that the 20 gallon kit is only $20 more than the 10 gallon kit.