Question about new DI canister.

[kaceyo]

I'm setting up my new Home Depot RODI unit and noticed that the DI canister has what looks like a plastic cap insert at the end with the rubber seal. Do I need to remove it or is it permeated with tiny holes?
Also, I bought a flush kit with it and can't figure out how it works. It looks like It just allows the water to run through either one tube or two tubes, depending on the valve being open or shut. What's the deal?
Thanx,

Kacey

 

[kaceyo]

The plastic plug does have slots in it through which water could flow, but I cant get it to fit over the ring (fitting) in the canister head. The slots are on the sides of the cap so might be plugged up by the fitting once inserted.

 

[JoshH]

Mind sharing pictures of the top of the di canister and the parts you are referring to? Typically you don't remove anything from this end and its put in with this end facing upwards.

As for your flush kit, this is exactly what it does. I'm guessing the kit did did not come with a flow restrictor but there will be one inserted into the RODI membrane housing. This will have to be removed and placed in the line that's not the one with the valve.

The way the flush works is when the valve is closed, it forces water through the flow restrictor which then forces water through the membrane at a certain ratio depending on how the flow restrictor is cut or which particular restrictor is place on the line. This in turn produces your RO water. When water is forced through the membrane particles will start to build up on the surface of the membrane. When you stop producing, if you don't have a flush kit, these particles will stay on the membranes surface and eventually begin to clog it prematurely or basically shortening its life. A flush kit works by providing a bypass for the restrictor giving you the ability to run higher flow over the surface of the membrane which will wash or "Flush" this particulate matter off of the surface. This has the benefit of delaying the surface build up from causing any performance issues of the membrane.

 

[kaceyo]

Mind sharing pictures of the top of the di canister and the parts you are referring to? Typically you don't remove anything from this end and its put in with this end facing upwards.

As for your flush kit, this is exactly what it does. I'm guessing the kit did did not come with a flow restrictor but there will be one inserted into the RODI membrane housing. This will have to be removed and placed in the line that's not the one with the valve.

The way the flush works is when the valve is closed, it forces water through the flow restrictor which then forces water through the membrane at a certain ratio depending on how the flow restrictor is cut or which particular restrictor is place on the line. This in turn produces your RO water. When water is forced through the membrane particles will start to build up on the surface of the membrane. When you stop producing, if you don't have a flush kit, these particles will stay on the membranes surface and eventually begin to clog it prematurely or basically shortening its life. A flush kit works by providing a bypass for the restrictor giving you the ability to run higher flow over the surface of the membrane which will wash or "Flush" this particulate matter off of the surface. This has the benefit of delaying the surface build up from causing any performance issues of the membrane.

Thanks Josh, I'll go ahead and set it up and flush the di cartridge out for a few minutes then.

 

[JoshH]

Thanks Josh, I'll go ahead and set it up and flush the di cartridge out for a few minutes then.

Don't flush it just yet!

 

[JoshH]

Make sure you flush the carbon block separately BEFORE running any water through your RO membrane to flush the DI