- Joined
- Dec 21, 2017
- Messages
- 538
- Reaction score
- 1,336
Unfortunately without replumbing the hot water heater that’s all I can use.Still using the piercing valve?
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Unfortunately without replumbing the hot water heater that’s all I can use.Still using the piercing valve?
Unfortunately without replumbing the hot water heater that’s all I can use.
I went back through my whole system. I do have the stock shut off valve that sits before the membranes. Do I need that since I have the auto shut off on the pump?Something is wrong. Recheck the inputs and outputs. Any adjustable values in the setup?
My shutoff value is after the membranes - it’s after the exit of the RODI.I went back through my whole system. I do have the stock shut off valve that sits before the membranes. Do I need that since I have the auto shut off on the pump?
My setup goes (source>shutoff valve>booster pump>sediment>carbon>carbon>pressure gauge>1st membrane>2nd membrane> cation>anion>mixed bed>auto shut off pressure switch>barrel.My shutoff value is after the membranes - it’s after the exit of the RODI.
Mine was definitely not setup that way lol. Probably my fault when I originally upgraded everything and plugged everything up.Shut off value input comes from water supply and goes to input RODI and RODI output is input for output shutoff value which then goes to storage container.
Complicated!
Does your shut off value look like this?Mine was definitely not setup that way lol. Probably my fault when I originally upgraded everything and plugged everything up.
It sure does. I have another one that was setup the way yours is before I bought my pump kit. I removed it because I thought the auto shutoff would do it. Now I know I need to reinstall it.Does your shut off value look like this?
Shut off value input comes from water supply and goes to input RODI and RODI output is input for output shutoff value which then goes to storage container.
Complicated!
Input is coming from the booster?
I installed that valve the correct way and lost 12psi.
No. Output is going to the booster. I can switch it up.Input is coming from the booster?
That worked. I have good pressure again. I just need to adjust the pressure switch because it’s not shutting the pump off when I activate the float valve. Looks like the Allen is smaller then the pump Allen.Input is coming from the booster?
I found the issue. The shut off valve from the factory system was installed in a improper location. Probably by me when reconfiguring the system to be much larger. I am getting great pressure now. 60-70 psi. I reinstalled the mechanically shut off to cut the supply of water once the barrel is full. But the auto shut off for the pump is not shutting the pump off after the water is cut and the psi drops. I tried to adjust the pressure switch but the Allen is smaller then the Allen on the pump.I would now start form Sq 1
Remove everything and hook tap water to pressure gauge. Take reading.
Then next, add pump inbetween tap water and booster pump. Move pressure gauge to after booster. Take reading.
Then add your Di canisters. Take reading.
Then add flush valve. SInce its automatic Im not sure how it works. (if there is a way to see if its open or closed).
............keep adding until prob is found