Ranco confusion

[Mrod]

Confused as some swear Ranco is much better than anything out there as a reliable heater controller

1- I’ve read it automatically defaults to the cooling position after a power outage. Is this 100% true or false?

2- if wanting to run 2 heaters off one ranco controller is that possible? I see they have a 2 stage but looks like one is for heat and one for a cooling outlet?

3- is the only way to get the probe safe buying it with the heat plastic sleeve for an upcharge? I heard there is a titanium probe but not from ranco

is this still the way to go for years of piece of mind and reliability or other cons above not mentioned true?

 

[Biglew11]

Been using this for 10 plus years. https://www.marinedepot.com/aqua-logic-digital-temperature-controller-dual-stage
My understanding is that it's a rebranded ranco. The 2 stage controller is set by default to channel 1 heat channel 2 to cooling. But you can change both channels to what you want 1 cooling 1 heat, both cooling, or both heat. It remembers your settings so it goes back to how you have set after a power outage.

Settings from the pdf.

DUAL STAGE TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER PROGRAMMING (ALL MODELS)
STEP ANNUCIATOR DESCRIPTION DISPLAY
1 F or C Fahrenheit or Celsius Scale F
2 S1 (blinking) Stage 1 Setpoint Temperature S1 77
3 DIF1 (blinking) Stage 1 Differential Temperature DIF1 1
4 C1/H1 Stage 1 Heating Mode H1
5 S2 (blinking) Stage 2 Setpoint Temperature S2 77
6 DIF2 (blinking) Stage 2 Differential Temperature DIF2 1
7 C2/H2 Stage 2 Cooling Mode C2
Liquid Crystal Display (LCD)
The LCD display provides a constant readout of the sensor temperature and indicates if the output relay is energized. When the S1 or S2
annuciator is constantly illuminated during operation, the relay is energized. The display is also used in conjunction with the keypad to allow
the user to adjust the setpoint temperature, differential and heating /cooling modes.
Programming Steps and Display
The control can be programmed in four simple steps using the LCD display and the three keys on the face of the control. (See photo for
display and keys.)
NOTE: For correct operation: All heat pumps, Stage 1 must be set for heat mode (H1) and Stage 2 for cool mode (C2). For
chiller and electric heater combination, Stage 1 must be set for the cooling mode (C1) and Stage 2 for heating mode (H2).
1. To start programming, press the SET key once to access the Fahrenheit/Celsius mode. The display will show the current status, either
F for degrees Fahrenheit or C for degrees Celsius. Then press either the up  arrow or down  arrow key to toggle between the F or C
designation.
2. Press the SET key again to access the setpoint temperature. The LCD will display the current setpoint temperature and the S1
annuciator will be blinking to indicate that the control is in the setpoint mode. Press either the up  key to increase or down  key to
decrease the setpoint to the desired temperature.
3. Press the SET key again to access the Stage 1 differential temperature. The LCD will display the current differential and the DIF 1
annuciator will be blinking to indicate that the control is in the differential mode. Then press either up  key to increase or the down 
key to decrease the differential to the desired setting (minimum 1˚F, maximum 30˚F).
4. Press the SET key again to select Stage 1 mode. The LCD will display the current mode: C1 or H1. Then press either up  key or the
down  key to toggle between the C1 or H1 designation.
5. Press the SET key again to access the Stage 2 setpoint temperature. The LCD will display the current setpoint temperature and the S2
annuciator will be blinking to indicate that the control is in the setpoint mode. Then press either the up  key to increase or down  key
to decrease the setpoint to the desired temperature.
6. Press the SET key again to access the differential temperature. The LCD will display the current differential and the DIF 2 annuciator
will be blinking to indicate that the control is in the differential mode. Then press either up  key to increase or the down  key to
decrease the differential to the desired setting (minimum 1°F, maximum 30˚F).
7. Press the SET key again to access the Stage 2 mode. The LCD will display the current mode: C2 or H2. Then press either up  key to t
or the down  key to toggle between the C2 or H2 designation.
8. Press the SET key again to exit programming mode. Controller will display current water temperature.
Controller will automatically drop out of “program mode” and return to “operating mode” 30 seconds after last key press.
Troubleshooting Controller Error Messages:
Display Messages
• E1 - Appears when the up  or down key is pressed when not in the programming mode.
To correct: If the E1 message appears even when no keys are being pressed, replace the control.
• E2 - Appears if the control settings are not properly stored in memory.
To correct: Check all settings and correct if necessary.
• EP - Appears when the probe and or flow switch is open , shorted or sensing a temperature that is out of range.
To correct: Check to see if the sensed temperature is out of range. If not , check for probe damage by comparing it to a known ambient
temperature between -30˚F and 220˚F. Replace the probe is necessary. Also, check for proper water flow through heater. If water flow
is correct, flow switch.
• EE - Appears if the EEPROM data has been corrupted.
To correct: This condition cannot be field repaired. Replace the control.
• CL - Appears if calibration mode has been entered.
To correct: Remove power to the control for least five seconds. Reapply power. If the CL message still appears, replace the control.

 

[Water Dog]

1) Mine is set to heater and when I cut off power during a water change and restore power again, it resumes heating again. It’s neevr defaulted to cooling in my experience.

2) Sure, you can run 2 heaters off of a single stage Ranco if you want, just get a wall wort splitter adapter. If you get the 2 stage, you can program each stage separately for whatever you want it to do. You’re not tied to one channel for heating and one channel for cooling as you have the ability to program each channel.

3) As far as I know, that titanium probe is on the rebranded Ranco temperature controllers offered by Aqualogic. If you get a Ranco branded controller, get the heat shrink.

4) Ranco temperature controllers are made for industrial applications. It’s not a hobby grade item like other offerings in the market. There are old school reefers who have run them for 15 plus years without skipping a beat.

 

[Mrod]

Fantastic feedback and thank you both. The Aqua logic looks perfect knowing it does overcome my concerns and will get this for sure to replace my current ink bird as in the market for new heaters and this now so thank you again for helping me!!!

love the knowledge you guys have!!

 

[Uncle99]

I avoid metal probes.
I use the plastic encased probe offered by Inkbird.

 

[Biglew11]

The probe on the aqualogic is in fact titanium.

 

[Uncle99]

The probe on the aqualogic is in fact titanium.

Didn’t know that....anything that even sounds metal “ish” I just avoid.
The ones on most Inkbird are not because they are not for aquariums,
But that’s great to know for the future, and important to clear up.
Thanks.

 

[DCR]

The only negative I have ever read on the Ranco is that they are somewhat susceptible to power surges. Make sure you have it on a good surge protector. If you see the E2 code on the display, it generally means it is toast. I picked up a used one once really cheap and came to find that was the case.