Salty_Northerner
Valuable Member
What lol ?
Ready to throw hammer through tank
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reneeL
Active Member
How many conchs do you have? I added CUC when dinos showed up.
Salty_Northerner
Valuable Member
Lol morning eyes fog.. my bad bud
I'm confusing lol. Sorry Jason, morning foggy eyes got me :/
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Just raise ur nutrients and lower ur light schedule u will pull through eventually brah
Salty_Northerner
Valuable Member
For the sand bed LCA I was dealing with I'd UV sweep and then mix up 30ml of microbactor 7 and 40ml microbactor purple M into a bit of tank water and injected it into the sand bed. That seemed to stall them out longer then just broadcast dosing. It wasn't till I added a bit more white to my schedule that things reversed.
Also I
- Kept nitrate @8-10 and phosphate @.20 ... Po4 was sitting at .1 but feeding frozen food knocked it up to .18 - .20 and I'd dose tropic Marin elmi-np for a week to drop po4 to .1 but would add nitrate to help balance out the ratio.
- used filter floss on top of the filter socks and would change it out every morning.
- Dosed a bottle of tisbee pods.
- 30ml of Rhodomonas Live Phytoplankton daily. So was the light helping? I firmly believe I'd was a major roll in causing the LCA to coexist with all the rest of the organisms in the sand bed.
You know there was a few rocks that get what looked like cyano but it wasn't. What it was I have no idea but turkey basting it off it just come back the next day. After the white light was increased just so it was a noticable to the eye that by day 3 it stopped growing and haven't seen it since so go figure.
Anyways after months of endless work I'd place the bet on white lol.
Hopefully someone can also try this method and have success as well.
Also I
- Kept nitrate @8-10 and phosphate @.20 ... Po4 was sitting at .1 but feeding frozen food knocked it up to .18 - .20 and I'd dose tropic Marin elmi-np for a week to drop po4 to .1 but would add nitrate to help balance out the ratio.
- used filter floss on top of the filter socks and would change it out every morning.
- Dosed a bottle of tisbee pods.
- 30ml of Rhodomonas Live Phytoplankton daily. So was the light helping? I firmly believe I'd was a major roll in causing the LCA to coexist with all the rest of the organisms in the sand bed.
You know there was a few rocks that get what looked like cyano but it wasn't. What it was I have no idea but turkey basting it off it just come back the next day. After the white light was increased just so it was a noticable to the eye that by day 3 it stopped growing and haven't seen it since so go figure.
Anyways after months of endless work I'd place the bet on white lol.
Hopefully someone can also try this method and have success as well.
I have always had success so far by raising nitrates and phosphates, increasing aeration(more of a precaution), adding silicate, and adding established live rock. If a skimmer is running, id turn it off. I would also reduce the refugium lighting schedule or turn it off all together.
I do the
raise nutes lower light method. I dose a bit of silica. I put a filter pad in my nori clip. Remove that pad hourly if you can, otherwise as often as possible. Increase flow, even if just for a week.
raise nutes lower light method. I dose a bit of silica. I put a filter pad in my nori clip. Remove that pad hourly if you can, otherwise as often as possible. Increase flow, even if just for a week.
I'm not kidding. This is 6 am to 11 am. Rinsed it and now will soak in to and peroxide, then rinse and back in to remove more.
I'm battling them in my 150 and just beat em off in a week on my 110. A had a few power outages that threw my tank out of whack. Just keep your nutes steady, your ALK in range, and do this manual removal.
I'm battling them in my 150 and just beat em off in a week on my 110. A had a few power outages that threw my tank out of whack. Just keep your nutes steady, your ALK in range, and do this manual removal.
gmavrom
Active Member
Here is what worked for me. I raised the temperature by 1 degree daily to 82 and dosed with Microbacter 7, cleaned filters daily, and vacuumed sand. I did not have UV at the time . You may want to add some copopads that eat it.
FishLvR
Kiss My Wrasse
The Green Machine is a brand name of a 25 watt in tank UV light that is self contained. Made popular by Pond folks. When the UV light goes out you toss the whole unit and buy another. They are meant to be used when there is a problem and not really long term. The UV is most certainly effective and even this cheap unit has held them at bay. When I start up a new build I will 100% plumb in a real unit.Not sure what you mean by your UV is just a green machine. UV is known to be the most effective treatment for ostreopsis, I’d make dang sure I had that working at a minimum. Idk tho maybe try the hammer
gmavrom
Active Member
You toss the light and buy a new one for around 40-50 bucks, and attach the new light to the pump. I worked for me and prevented an ich outbreak, too
Ziggy17
Valuable Member
If you’re going to run a UV for ostreopsis, it should be a closed system in your DT, and not plumbed into the system. For whatever reason, the Dino’s aren’t making it down into the sump in the same numbers they are reproducing in the DT. It looks ugly, but it works the best. Try to keep the intake on the one side and the return on the other with the UV light sitting on top somewhere, usually the top of the over flow box.
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