Reef Breeders Meridians

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I would like to address this rumor as clearly as I can.

The app as it is right now- with full cloud based control- is, and will always be, free to use with our lights.

As far as premium features go- that's for new and advanced features only, like bluetooth control, intelligent acclimation, etc.

In addition you can own those features outright with a lifetime license.

We're a small business that made a big investment and put a lot on the line to introduce new features that we think our users will love. If you don't feel that the new premium features are worth it for you, you don't have to use them. We have a fully functional and easy to use free version, and that will never change.

Our app is already one of the best and easiest to use in the industry- and we will continue to improve and maintain the base features already included with our app at no additional cost to you.
On the Meridian 24, can each side (2 sides) be individually controlled to have half tank getting more par and other half getting less par?
 
The median 24” fixture and edge bar turned out to be a pretty slick setup at a frag swap today.
IMG_7338.jpeg


IMG_7337.jpeg
I know this is an old thread. But what booth is that?
 
Anyone have any suggestions how to illuminate this shimmer (?) that I'm getting without shutting off the return so there's no surface agitation?
I don't spend much time in front of this tank due to it being in our bedroom. Today I spent some time just sitting back and watching things and the shimmer or whatever it's called is really annoying after several minutes. The tank is an iM 20 with a display area 12x24" I have the light on photon tank mounts and have it on the highest setting which puts it at 11" above the water. The next setting down puts it at 7.5" but the shimmer doesn't really change.

Here's a quick video


This is what I would really like to see. This tank is 36x22x22 with two photon 32 pros also 11" above the water.


Just an update to my post above. I had a thread about the issue so this is just a copy and paste from there but I wanted my resolution here since it may be useful to someone else.

I installed the encompass lense and the disco color effect was eliminated immediately but I still had a lot of shimmer but this is a shallow tank compared to my others and I have the light mounted 3" lower than the recommended height. I also had a huge amount of surface agitation which can really create a lot of shimmer so I adjusted my return nozzles.
I'm going to run the lights 11" above the water because thats the max the brackets I'm using allow. I don't mind a little extra shimmer as long as it isn't a rainbow of colors.
To be fair to reefbreeders and also to hopefully not discourage anyone from trying these lights I raised them temporarily so I could get a video. The recommended height is 14" above the water but I was only able to get it 13.5" using what I had on hand but i have no complaints.
One thing that would be nice would be a choice of lens at the time of purchase but I realize that's a lot to ask from a manufacturing perspective.
There was no lack of concern from reefbreeders. They contacted me very soon after I posted my issue and have stayed in contact. Gotta love a small business that cares, they're becoming fewer all the time.

 
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I'm looking at the Waterbox INFINIA FRAG 125.4 tank specs. is 48x24x16. No cross brace, would the Meridian 35 fit the bill? Tank is (16) inches in depth...... very shallow I know.
 
I'm looking at the Waterbox INFINIA FRAG 125.4 tank specs. is 48x24x16. No cross brace, would the Meridian 35 fit the bill? Tank is (16) inches in depth...... very shallow I know.
Yes it’s ideal for that size
 
I have some questions about setting up my lights with a PAR meter, and some curiosity about channel mixing and coral growth.

I have tried a few schedules in the community tab to include @VintageReefer. I find most of them are very royal blue heavy. I currently have an AI prime HD over my cube, and got the Meridian 45 for my new 60x20.

My questions are, if I create a schedule that relies more on the indigo, near uv, cool blue, violet & indigo channels to provide most of the mix, adjust the whites up to where my eyes like it, and have the royal blue as my lowest setting will I still get good coral growth? The AI models have what they are calling "Solar Blue" spectrum, and to achieve this they lowered the royal blue amount.

When adjusting for par, should I be checking PAR level with all the channels at their current setting? I think I read at one point to adjust for par with the whites off.

Thank you for any help / insight.
 
Keep all the other spectrum colors close to each other, then Jack up the blues a bit higher than the rest for the best results IMHO. Great par and pur! Too much of any one spectral component and you will get a "hazy" look.
 
I have some questions about setting up my lights with a PAR meter, and some curiosity about channel mixing and coral growth.

I have tried a few schedules in the community tab to include @VintageReefer. I find most of them are very royal blue heavy. I currently have an AI prime HD over my cube, and got the Meridian 45 for my new 60x20.

My questions are, if I create a schedule that relies more on the indigo, near uv, cool blue, violet & indigo channels to provide most of the mix, adjust the whites up to where my eyes like it, and have the royal blue as my lowest setting will I still get good coral growth? The AI models have what they are calling "Solar Blue" spectrum, and to achieve this they lowered the royal blue amount.

When adjusting for par, should I be checking PAR level with all the channels at their current setting? I think I read at one point to adjust for par with the whites off.

Thank you for any help / insight.
You'll get little coral fluorescence and a pick hue.
 
My questions are, if I create a schedule that relies more on the indigo, near uv, cool blue, violet & indigo channels to provide most of the mix, adjust the whites up to where my eyes like it, and have the royal blue as my lowest setting will I still get good coral growth?
No

The majority of leds are the royal blue and this is what provides your primary punch. Use royal blue for 60-75% of your desired par, then use the whites and cool blue for the rest. The indigo, violet and near uv will basically provide extremely little par. whites and these other channels are for fine tuning and providing spectrum the corals need, but spectrum we visually can not see very well

Here is par test of each channel, one by one, at 100% so you can see a comparison
61BE3C1C-D3D7-4076-A796-08E31A74F384.jpeg
 
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I'm looking to get the Meridians but need some advice from those who have them.

I have a IM lagoon INT 150 48 long x36 deep (front to back) x20 tall. The internal overflow takes up about 6 inches in the back or so, so realistically the tank is only 48x30x20. I have been debating on either getting the Meridian 35 with the edge bars or getting 3 Meridian 24s and positioning them perpendicular to the tank to cover the front to back depth. I run a sps dominant tank.

My second question with the Meridians are do they have nice shimmer like Kessils. Right now I'm running a hybrid setup with 2 ap700s and 4 T5s and really like the look and coverage but need to upgrade as my ap700s are really old.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
I'm looking to get the Meridians but need some advice from those who have them.

I have a IM lagoon INT 150 48 long x36 deep (front to back) x20 tall. The internal overflow takes up about 6 inches in the back or so, so realistically the tank is only 48x30x20. I have been debating on either getting the Meridian 35 with the edge bars or getting 3 Meridian 24s and positioning them perpendicular to the tank to cover the front to back depth. I run a sps dominant tank.

My second question with the Meridians are do they have nice shimmer like Kessils. Right now I'm running a hybrid setup with 2 ap700s and 4 T5s and really like the look and coverage but need to upgrade as my ap700s are really old.

Any advice would be appreciated.
I’d go with a 35 and edge bars myself.. I have 2 of the 63’s on my tank and it’s 36” wide.. I mean you could do 2 of the 35’s but it would be overkill most honestly.. shimmer is pretty crazy on shallow tanks!
 
they will have loads of shimmer if you have just about any water surface agitation.
 
No

The majority of leds are the royal blue and this is what provides your primary punch. Use royal blue for 60-75% of your desired par, then use the whites and cool blue for the rest. The indigo, violet and near uv will basically provide extremely little par. whites and these other channels are for fine tuning and providing spectrum the corals need but spectrum we visually can not see very well

61BE3C1C-D3D7-4076-A796-08E31A74F384.jpeg
That’s interesting as I’ve never checked each channel by itself.

I did want to tack on that when I set mine up and was speaking with Logan at Reefbreeders over the phone, he did mention that near UV will not pick up on our par meters and that for the par I was going for it would be higher than I show if using more near uv.
 
That’s interesting as I’ve never checked each channel by itself.

I did want to tack on that when I set mine up and was speaking with Logan at Reefbreeders over the phone, he did mention that near UV will not pick up on our par meters and that for the par I was going for it would be higher than I show if using more near uv.
Well I’m not sure of the context but par is intensity between 400 and 700nm wavelengths of light. UV is below 400 and not part of a par measurement. Near uv I guess and assume would be 400-480 and my meter does measure that range.

Is the rb near uv channel actually emitting uv below 400? I have no idea
 

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