OP
OP
You are most welcome. Keep us posted. I also struggled in the beginning, remember I myself learned electronics and many more things on the way
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
- Thread starter Ranjib
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- controller raspberry-pi
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pickupman66
5000 Club Member
Pinning out and assigning outlets!
pickupman66
5000 Club Member
So, i had to redo my assignments. and I have an outlet that is Ghost locked. GPIO 16 states in-use but i have not assigned it. i may have before then i redid to order them properly according to the power bar and my OCD. now that one is in-use and i cannot assign it. it shows in-use on the config page but is not used in equipment. i get this error {"error":"Failed to create. Error: Outlet is already in use (Equipment ID: 7)"} | HTTP 500
OP
OP
Nice voltage regulator. I bet its bit expensive than the lm2596 modules we recommend now.Pinning out and assigning outlets!
pickupman66
5000 Club Member
Buck Boost Converter Display, DROK Auto Buck-Boost Board DC 5.5-30V 12v to DC 0.5-30V 5v 24v Adjustable Constant Current Voltage Step UP Down Voltage Regulator 4A 50W Power Supply Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789QVKKF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z2WIBbBKFMGMQ
About $14 so not bad. It's spot on with my multimeter
About $14 so not bad. It's spot on with my multimeter
OP
OP
I think I know this issue, and cant think of any easy workaround other than recreating that outlet by resetting database
pickupman66
5000 Club Member
How is the database reset? Can it be accessed and edited?
OP
OP
reef-pi uses boltdb, which is an embedded database in go. You can only open/edit it in go programming language. When I say reset database, i mean delete existing database and recreate things
https://reef-pi.github.io/additional-documentation/troubleshooting/
pickupman66
5000 Club Member
Ok. Thank you. I'll probably go ahead and reset.
Got it in an enclosure tonight. I will probably use cat5 cable to go from my closet to the tank for the float switch and the temp probe. I have this nifty breakout from my archon that takes Cat5 and breaks it to screw terminals. This way I can easily hook and unhook in the closet and also in the tank area.
Got it in an enclosure tonight. I will probably use cat5 cable to go from my closet to the tank for the float switch and the temp probe. I have this nifty breakout from my archon that takes Cat5 and breaks it to screw terminals. This way I can easily hook and unhook in the closet and also in the tank area.
OP
OP
Nice. I am curious about the current draw from two set of db9 connector/sr p8 powerstrips. Let us know how it works one you tested it with both powerstrip hooked up.Ok. Thank you. I'll probably go ahead and reset.
Got it in an enclosure tonight. I will probably use cat5 cable to go from my closet to the tank for the float switch and the temp probe. I have this nifty breakout from my archon that takes Cat5 and breaks it to screw terminals. This way I can easily hook and unhook in the closet and also in the tank area.
pickupman66
5000 Club Member
Total draw for the system and a single db9 is 0.030 amps according to the display. That is with 7 of the 8 outlets on. I need to reset reef-pi for that 8th outlet.
OP
OP
Thats not too bad. I am trying to understand if a 12v 1A powersupply will be enough to power a pi zero + two set of adj sr p8 power strip.
It will be awesome if it works, it means users can build a 16 outlet power controller within 150$.
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1 amp might work, but may not be reliable. The relays used in the sr p8 have a nomimal current of 77 mA. Although it isn't likely to happen, if all 16 relays were to switch at the same time, that would far exceed the power supplies capability. A 2 amp supply would be more reliable, and shouldn't really cost much more. If you already have the 1A supply, you probably won't have a problem, but random pi resets could be a symptom to look out for.
pickupman66
5000 Club Member
Tank is now 90% under reef-pi control. Jebao programming and skimmer are the lone holdouts
Just for notes. The SRP8 db9 pinout is as follows
Plug 1 - 6
Plug 2 - 1
Plug 3 - 3
Plug 4 - 2
Plug 5 - 9
Plug 6 - 7
Plug 7 - 8
Plug 8 - 4
Dc is #5
Also did some upgrades. Added a rj-45 jack for coms to the tank for ATO and temps. I have 3 wire left on this. At the tank it connects to a breakout. I am running two probes for now.
Just for notes. The SRP8 db9 pinout is as follows
Plug 1 - 6
Plug 2 - 1
Plug 3 - 3
Plug 4 - 2
Plug 5 - 9
Plug 6 - 7
Plug 7 - 8
Plug 8 - 4
Dc is #5
Also did some upgrades. Added a rj-45 jack for coms to the tank for ATO and temps. I have 3 wire left on this. At the tank it connects to a breakout. I am running two probes for now.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Tank is now 90% under reef-pi control. Jebao programming and skimmer are the lone holdouts
Just for notes. The SRP8 db9 pinout is as follows
Plug 1 - 6
Plug 2 - 1
Plug 3 - 3
Plug 4 - 2
Plug 5 - 9
Plug 6 - 7
Plug 7 - 8
Plug 8 - 4
Dc is #5
Also did some upgrades. Added a rj-45 jack for coms to the tank for ATO and temps. I have 3 wire left on this. At the tank it connects to a breakout. I am running two probes for now.
Very nice. I love the CAT5/RJ45 breakout board. Can you share the link for getting those :0-). I bet others would benefit from the db9 pin mapping. You don't mind I copy it in the official docs? Users can at least have some expectation or cross verify. I'll definitely do the same on my end
pickupman66
5000 Club Member
I did a quick search but could not find the exact same one. I know I ordered it off Amazon. Here is a slightly different model but same principle
Dual RJ45 Ethernet Connector Breakout Board w/ LED Screw terminals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BAHLWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-WeJBbFQA74PN
I have no issues with you using any of these findings in the instructions. I'm happy to help.
Dual RJ45 Ethernet Connector Breakout Board w/ LED Screw terminals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BAHLWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-WeJBbFQA74PN
I have no issues with you using any of these findings in the instructions. I'm happy to help.
OP
OP
Thank you. I worry that RJ45 connectors are harder to build due to special crimping tool requirement. But they are definitely better than audio connector for temperature sensors.
pickupman66
5000 Club Member
Agreed. I happened to have a crimp tool. The little recepticals you can buy like I used in the box come with a little pinch down tool but need solid core wire to work best. I had to strip back the connecting wires to reveal the strands as the insulation was not pierced.
I checked and I'm at ~$165 on my build plus some cost of extra materials and junk I had laying around. Plus some extra junk ordered that I plan to return.
I'm anxious to build a pwm circuit for jebao pump controls and hope to use the 2nd rj-45 for signaling.
I checked and I'm at ~$165 on my build plus some cost of extra materials and junk I had laying around. Plus some extra junk ordered that I plan to return.
I'm anxious to build a pwm circuit for jebao pump controls and hope to use the 2nd rj-45 for signaling.
OP
OP
I'm playing with a drok BLDC board to control icecap gyre 1K. I left it halfway, since I got busy with documentation. I dont see the situation changes till almost Christmas (and may be some bugfixing/coding in between).
pickupman66
5000 Club Member
I'm good with that. I'm letting the reef-pi run side by side with my Archon. Reef-pi owns the power supplies, archon owns the pulsing and a 50% throttle back at night. Next month I'll add the 2nd srdj8. I have a nifty pinned out uln2803 I'll use and just add the necessary jumpers over.
I'll see if I can break out some cosi for you for wavemaking.
I'll see if I can break out some cosi for you for wavemaking.
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