reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Michael Lane

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Hi, @Michael Lane, Pi-Hat pin continuity test
before i setup and test the new ras-pi with pi-HAT i tested the pins for continuity, and this is what i got
5 v pin connected properly to pH1, pH2, ATO1, ATO2, ATO3, 5v pin on GPIO breakout
ground connected properly all ground points on the board
3.3v pin NOT connected to any temp ports, or any other pin on the board
GPIO 4 connected to all temp ports
i don't know if the 3.3 v should be like this showing no continuity because of the 470k resistor or this is a bad connection
do i use this board on my new res-pi
@Alaa That sounds pretty strange. 3.3v should not be impacted by the 4.7k pull up resistor, although it may not show continuity to the 1 Wire pins. Could you post a picture of the bottom of the board?
 

Alaa

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Hi, finally got my new Pi up and running
Regarding the 5v relays the diagram @Michael Lane and @Des Westcott's posted is correct and allow you to run 16 (5V) relays. However there is another way that is working also:

1- Connect a dedicated 5v power supply to the JD-VCC and ground of the relays after removing the jumper connectin JD-VCC to VCC.

2- Connect GPIO from the HAT (8 from the GPIO breakout and 8 from the ULN2803A output) to the relay boards ins (8 each),

3- Connect 5v form the HAT (the one with the GPIO breakout) to VCC that is between JD-VCC and ground on the relay boards (one v 5v from the HAT can supply both relay boards),

4- NO need to connect anything to the 12 volt power input on the HAT.

this method is better for those who has the PI-HAT and the power module in separate enclosures, as it requires only 9 lines (8 GPIO and one 5v) to each relay board,also you can work with your PI-HAT without interrupting the power module (at least the one set as NC).
 

Alaa

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@Alaa That sounds pretty strange. 3.3v should not be impacted by the 4.7k pull up resistor, although it may not show continuity to the 1 Wire pins. Could you post a picture of the bottom of the board?

hat.jpeg
 

peejay

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Help! I have Temperature on my dashboard and until recently it displayed from 0 up to the max temperature but it has started displaying just from min to max temperature. I am not aware of changing anything, how can I get it back to the original? Thanks.
 

Michael Lane

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Help! I have Temperature on my dashboard and until recently it displayed from 0 up to the max temperature but it has started displaying just from min to max temperature. I am not aware of changing anything, how can I get it back to the original? Thanks.
If this is a relatively new set up, then I bet the 0 is from the time before readings were coming in. The reduced range is probably being used now because all of the readings are within your defined range. If you want the range to start at 0, you should be able to just set that as the minimum instead.
 

MikeSpike

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Can someone help me with ATO. Standard functionality working as it should. However the “Disable on alert” doesn’t seem to work.
I have set Alert = Yes, Disable on Alert = Yes and Alert after 15 Seconds. But pump remains on for longer than that. E.g Friday night when I was out and my ATO ran dry.
Running 2.5 (not had a chance to upgrade yet).
Any advice on getting this to work? And when it does what alert is sent? -email like with Temp? And then how is it reset to start working again?

thank you
 

raketemensch

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@Alaa Des Westcott's answer is correct. I need to pull these diagrams together and post them with the FAQ.

The ATO port can accommodate multiple kinds of ATO sensors. Depending on the type of sensor, you may not have to use all pins. Let me know if it's still an issue; I can draw a wiring diagram if it would be helpful.

That would be awesome, and would go well in the FAQ :]

Since the float switch is just two wires, is it really as simple as connecting it to to two non-ground pins?
 

MikeSpike

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Can someone help me with ATO. Standard functionality working as it should. However the “Disable on alert” doesn’t seem to work.
I have set Alert = Yes, Disable on Alert = Yes and Alert after 15 Seconds. But pump remains on for longer than that. E.g Friday night when I was out and my ATO ran dry.
Running 2.5 (not had a chance to upgrade yet).
Any advice on getting this to work? And when it does what alert is sent? -email like with Temp? And then how is it reset to start working again?

thank you
Thought it would be prudent to update to 3 this evening to try and resolve...now the whole things gone haywire.

im getting
{"error":"stats for id: '5' not found"} | HTTP 404
And on the connections tab it’s looking even worse. See screenshot. Could someone help?
Absolutely nothing works now not even turning equip on and off

39F30D26-6059-4F45-A61B-0FF20D9A6329.png A761A379-0C59-45F9-BBFE-30D2BECFC095.png
 
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peejay

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If this is a relatively new set up, then I bet the 0 is from the time before readings were coming in. The reduced range is probably being used now because all of the readings are within your defined range. If you want the range to start at 0, you should be able to just set that as the minimum instead.
How would I do that? Bit of a noob here.
 

MikeSpike

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Thought it would be prudent to update to 3 this evening to try and resolve...now the whole things gone haywire.

im getting
{"error":"stats for id: '5' not found"} | HTTP 404
And on the connections tab it’s looking even worse. See screenshot. Could someone help?
Absolutely nothing works now not even turning equip on and off

39F30D26-6059-4F45-A61B-0FF20D9A6329.png A761A379-0C59-45F9-BBFE-30D2BECFC095.png
Update to the above. Have managed to downgrade to 2.5 which at least now has resolved my equipment working. So I guess 2 questions.
1. how does the ato work
2. What’s going wrong with my 3 install?
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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Update to the above. Have managed to downgrade to 2.5 which at least now has resolved my equipment working. So I guess 2 questions.
1. how does the ato work
2. What’s going wrong with my 3 install?

Did you clear your config prior to the update and start clean? There were many changes in 3.0 which aren't compatible with 2.5.

You basically have to start fresh.
 

Alaa

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No. You don’t need the resistor. The hat uses the RPi’s interval resistors. I’m running perfectly with no resistors.
Thanks for reply,
As i understand it the HAT dose not use the Pi interval resistors,but he board already has a 220 ohm resistor inline with the GPIO. So referring to other mechanical FS diagrams we still need another 10 k resistor. it will work without it but can't grantee pi protection.
 

Des Westcott

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Thanks for reply,
As i understand it the HAT dose not use the Pi interval resistors,but he board already has a 220 ohm resistor inline with the GPIO. So referring to other mechanical FS diagrams we still need another 10 k resistor. it will work without it but can't grantee pi protection.

Here’s a screenshot of my private conversation with @Michael Lane about the topic

F662E39F-0894-488C-8B28-28200D8F4E6D.png
 

Michael Lane

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The rpi has internal pull down resistor for these pins, so the additional resistor is not necessary unless you need a stronger pull down behavior.
1577634111182.png


The pull down is enabled by default, so adding a 10k pull down resistor would actually result in a 8.3k pull down since it creates parallel resistors.
 
OP
OP
Ranjib

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BTW @Ranjib, since I've been doing Auto Water Changes, I have been wondering more and more about monitoring Salinity / SG / EC. Any idea if this could be incorporated into Reef-Pi? Is a reasonable probe / sensor even available?
Due to their high cost, frequent need of calibration and less usefulness (compared to other sensors) I have not tinkered with ec and orp probe.
That being said, I think the ezo ph driver will work as it is for orp and ec as far as reading goes. Calibration and rest needs to be done out of reef-pi using atlas scientific libraries
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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Thanks. Unfortunately that doesn’t seem to resolve the issue.

You removed the2.5 install (including config) and did a clean install of 3.0 and re-setup all drivers and re-added all connections/equipment/macros/timers from scratch and it's still giving you the same issue?

If that indeed is the case, which would be very strange, I would try do a clean install and add things one by one to isolate what's giving you an issue. But I have a sneaky suspicion that some remnants of 2.5 is coming back to haunt your 3.0 install.
 

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