- May 29, 2018
- Reaction score
- Durban - South Africa
We can tinker with it and salvage what's usable. It will be really cool if we can get reef-pi running in one of those. I dont know how many custom components it has, and how easy it will be to get those working with reef-pi. If its a lot of work, its probably not worth , since theres only a handful of these units present. But without testing out, its hard to say how much effort involved
:-( . this is super easy with api/coding , but alas nothing fancy with the UI.
@Ranjib I can't get the lights to power, is there a step I am missing? Other than running power to my pi do I need to hook up an additional power source to my goby hat to get it to work?So I am trying to get my viparspectra hooked up to my reefpi, I have the @Michael Lane goby hat and adapter, I am trying to make sure I wire it correctly, from the picture on the upper right jst connector is the yellow Chanel 2 the black(center) the ground and the red Chanel 1? After I get the wiring correct do I need to setup a pca9685 driver for it and then add a new jack calling pins 13,14 and listing the driver I created?
I don’t have this setup or tinkered with in past . I’m sorry I can’t validate the circuit, let’s wait for someone with this unit to respond
I used wire normally closed, because of heater. I didn’t want it to turn off when it’s not being controlled. I can see reasons for the opposite as well. If you are doing scratch build, then no reason to have mixed setup as well, if that suits your need,Question. Do you guys wire your relays normally open or normally closed? Which and why?
If I unplug what I think is the ground wire the light will turn on but I can't control it, it is either on or off. If I plug the ground wire in then the lights turn off immediately. Anyone else experience this?
Question. Do you guys wire your relays normally open or normally closed? Which and why?
thank you for this post, the step by step you provided really helpful. finally, I can use my pH probe. I admit that this cheap pH probe perhaps lacks of accuracy if compared to ezo pH probe. But in my place, the ezo is really expensive and I can not afford it.Adding analog sensors with ADS1115
Michael Lane has been working on a new ADS1015/ADS1115 driver for reef-pi.
This brings new possibilities to Reef-Pi:
Any analog sensor can be used as long as the analog signal is in between 2.0V to 5.5V.
- PH/Orp probes
- Pressure sensors
- Flow sensors
ADS1115 16-Bit ADC - 4 Channel with Programmable Gain Amplifier
I had an ADS1115 board so I tried if my PH probe is working. So I made a “How to guide” maybe it will be of use for others. I used a Raspberry Pi 2 Model B with Reef-Pi version 3.5.
- Resolution: 16 Bits
- Programmable Sample Rate: 8 to 860 Samples/Second
- Power Supply/Logic Levels: 2.0V to 5.5V
- Low Current Consumption: Continuous Mode: Only 150µA Single-Shot Mode: Auto Shut-Down
- Internal Low-Drift Voltage Reference
- Internal Oscillator
- Internal PGA: up to x16
- I2C Interface: 4-Pin-Selectable Addresses
- Four Single-Ended or 2 Differential Inputs
- Programmable Comparator
Add driver under Configuration/Drivers
Configure the Driver:
Address: standard is 72
Gain: 2/3, 1, 2, 4, 8 or 16
An Adafruit tutorial has this guidance.
# Choose a gain of 1 for reading voltages from 0 to 4.09V.
# Or pick a different gain to change the range of voltages that are read:
# - 2/3 = +/-6.144V (High Gain, Sensitive to noise)
# - 1 = +/-4.096V
# - 2 = +/-2.048V
# - 4 = +/-1.024V
# - 8 = +/-0.512V
# - 16 = +/-0.256V (Low Gain, Not Sensitive to Noise)
# See table 3 in the ADS1015/ADS1115 datasheet for more info on gain.
Add analog input under Configuration/Connectors
Configure the connector
Pins: 0 (depends what pin you use on the ADS1115 board)
Add the probe under pH
Configure the PH probe
Analog input: PHpin0
Check frequency: 10
Ph status: Enabled
The other settings are not mandatory.
The first readings will be high:
Therefore you need to calibrate!
To be able to calibrate you first have to disable the Ph status
- Edit ph.
- Disable probe.
- Rinse probe in rodi
- Place in 7 calibration fluid
- Wait for readings to stabilize
- Set cal value to 7 (Midpoint)
- Push Run
- Rinse probe
- Put in 10 calibration fluid
- Set cal value to 10 (Second Point)
- Enable probe
- Rinse probe and check both 7 and 10 and make sure it’s close.
I’ve you tried different intensity for the lights like 50% or 80%? Did you contact Mike Lane for wiring help?If I unplug what I think is the ground wire the light will turn on but I can't control it, it is either on or off. If I plug the ground wire in then the lights turn off immediately. Anyone else experience this?
Yes you will need an analog signal isolater. I did not have time to dive in to it, but there are some chips that will work, with some soldering yourself to keep the costs Low. If you find something then keep us updated.thank you for this post, the step by step you provided really helpful. finally, I can use my pH probe. I admit that this cheap pH probe perhaps lacks of accuracy if compared to ezo pH probe. But in my place, the ezo is really expensive and I can not afford it.
I still face a problem however, whenever I put my pH probe into my tank, the pH is always fluctuating. I search about it and found that I have stray voltage on my tank. do you have any suggestions to overcome this? it seems that analog isolator might be the answer, yet as it is still pricy for me, I would like to hear your opinion about this. or perhaps you have an idea about DIY analog isolator. of course, the step by step will help much . Once again thank you
Yes I have confirmed with him now that the ground is center one and I have it wired correctly. I have also tried all up and down the sliders and with the ground plugged in it does nothing. If I take the grounding wire out the and leave the 2 channels plugged into the hat then the lights light up at 100 percent :/ but with no controlI’ve you tried different intensity for the lights like 50% or 80%? Did you contact Mike Lane for wiring help?