reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

From what @Ranjib has said sounds like he is really busy currently, there is a Viparspectra thread that he was the original OP, has a lot of good information in it - r2r thread you may have seen it, there are other threads also...
Last I had contact with him, he was occupied and health difficulties. I didn’t delve into details, I’ll ping him later this month , just to do a health check. I am sure he is fine, it’s just all these difficulties around us in this uncertain times, that all of us have to address,
 
Last I had contact with him, he was occupied and health difficulties. I didn’t delve into details, I’ll ping him later this month , just to do a health check. I am sure he is fine, it’s just all these difficulties around us in this uncertain times, that all of us have to address,
If you are able to tag up with him tell him I am sending well wishes his way and hope he gets better. I know how things can sneak up on you, I went from not having any issues to 2 heart surgeries in a year so you just never know whats around the corner.

Please let him know that we are wishing nothing but the best and hope he is on a path to recovery etc. :)
 
Looking good. I’ll share my dashboards for reference.
once we settle on a convention for the metrics, I think we will be able to ready made grafana dashboards (hosted in grafana.com) that users can just import straight from grafana ui, that way they don’t have to learn promql etc., or at least have some reference /example to look at
Yeah I think that would be good, I am still getting my head wrapped around things like max data points. When I go back 2 days to more it doesnt show all of the detail, increasing the number of data points solves the issue but I don't fully understand what should the right answer be. Can you eleaborate on how you have determined max data points for equipment, that is what I am playing with right now.

Thanks :)
 
If you are able to tag up with him tell him I am sending well wishes his way and hope he gets better. I know how things can sneak up on you, I went from not having any issues to 2 heart surgeries in a year so you just never know whats around the corner.

Please let him know that we are wishing nothing but the best and hope he is on a path to recovery etc. :)
I hope he a d his family is doing ok in these hard times. Without any of you we would'nt have Reef Pi. You guys are the beating heart of this project.
 
Hi all one question about adafruit feeds. Ihave free acount with 10 feeds. Ok since I updated to 4.1 I get feeds about leds witch I dont need, I need feed about ph. So how can I delete led feeds and manually add ph feed? Anyone has a clue? Thank you! Or so I need to delete leds:( add ph and when feeds are shown add leds again to reefpi? Thats lot of work..
 

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Ive been away for awhile. Wondering if @Ranjib ever got it where steppers could be used for dosing? want to build a doser, but want the precision that a stepper would deliever.
 
Its not steady. its varying.. but the old values is making the chart y axis so large that the new calibrated values are not being visualized correctly. Bare with me, I'll list down the steps to use reef-pi db command to get rid of the old values,

  1. Stop reef-pi (sudo systemctl stop reef-pi.service)
  2. Use reef-pi db command to list the ph probes (sudo reef-pi db list phprobes). Obtain the probe id from here. For me it shows something like this
    Code:
    {
    "1": {
    "id": "1",
    "name": "TestPH",
    "enable": true,
    "period": 2,
    "analog_input": "1",
    "control": false,
    "notify": {
    "enable": false,
    "min": 0,
    "max": 0
    },
    "upper_eq": "",
    "downer_eq": "",
    "min": 0,
    "max": 0,
    "hysteresis": 0,
    "is_macro": false
    }
    }
  3. Notice my phprobe id is 1. Next use this id to obtain the ph readings values
    Code:
    sudo reef-pi db show ph_readings 1 > readings.json
    . This should dump the readings in readings.json file, edit to and remove all the bogus values (you'll see values in the range of 1000s (way outside 0-14), delete those.
  4. The reupload the file like this:
    Code:
     cat readings.json | sudo reef-pi db update ph_readings 1
  5. Start reef-pi again (sudo systemctl start reef-pi.service)
Thats it. your old data is gone now.. and the graph should automatically reset and show you the new values which should be in 5.5-10 range at worst, but with daily cycle.

For ease of editing i pass the reef-pi db output via jq command, it indents the json file , making it easy to read/edit.
To install jq command
Code:
sudo apt-get install jq
Then to use it execute the 3rd step like this:
Code:
sudo reef-pi db show ph_readings 1 | jq . | readings.json

Sorry for your trouble. Let me know if you try this and if it worked. Happy to helo you through this...
Just to clarify, to run the json thru jq and save to file command is:

Code:
jq '.' readings.json >  readings2.json

Everything else in the instructions worked fine to repair the graph.
Hint: search for "historical" to edit the historical data
 
Can anyone provide any details for getting ATO to display properly in grafana, I thought I had it working but it is not showing run time correctly. It shows when its run but always shows the same run time vs the actually run time.

Thanks...
 
I have reefpi running with pi 3b+ and a leviathan board. I am setting up an auto water change, but have been having relay issues. Tonight my fill pump, tunze DC pump, stuck on and so did my empty pump, tunze as well. After unplugging them the fill relay shows 120v on or off, but I can here it trying to switch. The empty relay works as expected without the pump.

I have heard advice about snupper and flyback etc, but don't have a clear understanding of what they mean or how they apply to what I am seeing.

I am staring to wish I bought an off the shelf water change device rather than doing it this way. Can anyone help?
 
I have reefpi running with pi 3b+ and a leviathan board. I am setting up an auto water change, but have been having relay issues. Tonight my fill pump, tunze DC pump, stuck on and so did my empty pump, tunze as well. After unplugging them the fill relay shows 120v on or off, but I can here it trying to switch. The empty relay works as expected without the pump.

I have heard advice about snupper and flyback etc, but don't have a clear understanding of what they mean or how they apply to what I am seeing.

I am staring to wish I bought an off the shelf water change device rather than doing it this way. Can anyone help?
A little confused about using a tunze DC pump but you read 120v, that sounds like AC?

What do you use for power bar? If Arduino module there is no snubber so you should have 0v or 120v, if you have a snubber inline you will read 120v off, you need a load on it to drop to 0v.
 
A little confused about using a tunze DC pump but you read 120v, that sounds like AC?

What do you use for power bar? If Arduino module there is no snubber so you should have 0v or 120v, if you have a snubber inline you will read 120v off, you need a load on it to drop to 0v.
120v out of the relay and then there is a ac to dc converter on the pumps plug which supplies the pump with 12v DC. The problem is one pump stuck on while connected to the pi, but its relay appears to work fine when the pump is disconnected. The other pump the relay is stuck on no matter what.
 
120v out of the relay and then there is a ac to dc converter on the pumps plug which supplies the pump with 12v DC. The problem is one pump stuck on while connected to the pi, but its relay appears to work fine when the pump is disconnected. The other pump the relay is stuck on no matter what.
Check your relay signal side return or ground wires. I’m had relays stick open when the signal wire return side didn’t all go to a common ground in the controller. It would work with okay one relay at a time but when two came on then one of the relays would stick open.
 
I have reefpi running with pi 3b+ and a leviathan board. I am setting up an auto water change, but have been having relay issues. Tonight my fill pump, tunze DC pump, stuck on and so did my empty pump, tunze as well. After unplugging them the fill relay shows 120v on or off, but I can here it trying to switch. The empty relay works as expected without the pump.

I have heard advice about snupper and flyback etc, but don't have a clear understanding of what they mean or how they apply to what I am seeing.

I am staring to wish I bought an off the shelf water change device rather than doing it this way. Can anyone help?

Hmm, interesting. Just so I'm clear, you're saying the empty relay works without the pump? So if you just have the empty socket, it outputs 120V when toggled on & 0V when toggled off?

When you say you can hear it trying to switch, what do you mean? Have you measured to see if you're getting the 3.3V out from that GPIO pin?
 
Hmm, interesting. Just so I'm clear, you're saying the empty relay works without the pump? So if you just have the empty socket, it outputs 120V when toggled on & 0V when toggled off?

When you say you can hear it trying to switch, what do you mean? Have you measured to see if you're getting the 3.3V out from that GPIO pin?
Relay 1 was stuck on with pump connected, but worked fine with pump disconnected.

Relay 2 no longer works and is stuck on. I hear it try to switch but compared to the others its muffled and quiet. I have not checked the pin.
 
Relay 1 was stuck on with pump connected, but worked fine with pump disconnected.

Relay 2 no longer works and is stuck on. I hear it try to switch but compared to the others its muffled and quiet. I have not checked the pin.
What pin should I check?
 
What pin should I check?

Depends exactly how you set it up. Whichever pin is powering your second relay would be the one to look into.

Though, by the sound of things, i'd say it's almost certainly a relay issue if you hear it trying to switch. Sounds like it's getting the signal, but it's just stuck.
 
Depends exactly how you set it up. Whichever pin is powering your second relay would be the one to look into.

Though, by the sound of things, i'd say it's almost certainly a relay issue if you hear it trying to switch. Sounds like it's getting the signal, but it's just stuck.
Ok I follow so it would be the jumper connecting to the relay board for that relay. Does a stuck relay = replacing the relay board?

Should I be doing anything different to protect the relay or make them more reliable? I am concerned that they may not be reliable enough for water changes.
 
Ok I follow so it would be the jumper connecting to the relay board for that relay. Does a stuck relay = replacing the relay board?

Should I be doing anything different to protect the relay or make them more reliable? I am concerned that they may not be reliable enough for water changes.
So I am mostly guessing here based on limited research. The relay that won't turn off, but tries to may have
1. plates welded together
2. Broken spring
3. Too much residual voltage

Is there a way to diagnose?
 
Hi all one question about adafruit feeds. Ihave free acount with 10 feeds. Ok since I updated to 4.1 I get feeds about leds witch I dont need, I need feed about ph. So how can I delete led feeds and manually add ph feed? Anyone has a clue? Thank you! Or so I need to delete leds:( add ph and when feeds are shown add leds again to reefpi? Thats lot of work..
I dont have a good solution to this. What you end up doing?
 

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