No worries I would pay 20 if I could just buy a whole board with good relays already on it.
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
- Thread starter Ranjib
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That stinks, good thing you're handy. This one is 500ma up to 90v, getting close.
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ReeferLou
Active Member
Anyone interested in how hot your pi CPU is running you can schedule this with krontab and send your self an email at the frequency of your choosing. Save as a .py file and run as python.
Code:
# coding=utf-8
#import time
import os
import smtplib
from email.mime.text import MIMEText
critical = False
high = 50
too_high = 80
# At First we have to get the current CPU-Temperature with this defined function
def getCPUtemperature():
res = os.popen('vcgencmd measure_temp').readline()
return(res.replace("temp=","").replace("'C\n",""))
# Now we convert our value into a float number
temp = float(getCPUtemperature())
# Check if the temperature is above 60°C (you can change this value, but it shouldn't be above 70)
if (temp > high):
if (temp > too_high):
critical = True
subject = "Critical warning! The temperature is: {} shutting down!!".format(temp)
body = "Critical warning! The actual temperature is: {} \n\n Shutting down the pi!".format(temp)
else:
subject = "Warning! The temperature is: {} ".format(temp)
body = "Warning! The actual temperature is: {} ".format(temp)
else:
subject = "LousReef Controller at Normal Temp"
body = "LousReef running at {}".format(temp)
# Enter your smtp Server-Connection
server = smtplib.SMTP('smtp.gmail.com', 587) # if your using gmail: smtp.gmail.com
server.ehlo()
server.starttls()
server.ehlo
# Login
server.login("your email", "your password")
msg = MIMEText(body)
msg['Subject'] = subject
msg['From'] = "you"
msg['To'] = "whoever"
# Finally send the mail
server.sendmail("from", "to", msg.as_string())
server.quit()
# Critical, shut down the pi
if critical:
os.popen('sudo halt')
With the L293D it is possible to control Stepper motors. The L293D is already part of Reef-Pi for the normal Doser motors.
Here a link as an example:
Some additional coding will be needed...
The only limitation is the current.
Here a link as an example:
Some additional coding will be needed...
The only limitation is the current.
I would really really advise against people trying to control steppers without a proper chopper driver, and not even the super cheap 4988 ones.
Unless you have your setup far away in the basement where you can't hear it, you really don't want to do that.
There is a reason that video has music instead of sound.
Not to mention that you won't be getting the accuracy you presumably bought the more expensive and less convenient stepper motors for if you don't use a proper driver and on top of that control it properly by telling it to run a certain amount of steps rather than for a certain time at a certain speed.
Unless you have your setup far away in the basement where you can't hear it, you really don't want to do that.
There is a reason that video has music instead of sound.
Not to mention that you won't be getting the accuracy you presumably bought the more expensive and less convenient stepper motors for if you don't use a proper driver and on top of that control it properly by telling it to run a certain amount of steps rather than for a certain time at a certain speed.
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Seems to have been just a bad connection.. need a real male-male jst adapter.. for now I have it plugged back into the board with the pot and it's "working".. Just a little dimmer than the other at lower levels, probably due to the resistance on the pot. But it does dim properly, so that's a plus..
This is just odd looking
Btw has anyone figured out how to stop the timeline on the graphs from overlapping and being messed up after rebooting the pi? I thought adding a realtimeclock would fix it and added a DS3231, but that either doesn't help or i have it set up wrong.
I think any digital pins can be used for the serial bus, at least with the Arduino boards. I looked again at the TMC2209 datasheet. You can have 4 drivers individually addressed on one bus. Of course, if you want two drivers to behave in the same way (say for two dosing pumps that you run in unison) then you can just give them the same address. Another way to scale is to add a transistor that switches the serial interface from one set of four drivers to another set of four. So if you want to communicate with 4x drivers, you need 1+x pins (2 for the serial bus + 1 to drive the transistor for each set of additional 4 drivers). But this would add even more complexity to the reef-pi code...
OP
OP
Can you send a screen shot ?
OP
OP
Stepper capability is important. I’m won’t worry about the code bits if we have a robust strategy (open source , affordable, good circuit/drivers and solves dosing workflows )
New data is written inbetween old data instead of at the very right, the graph then flickers back and forth between new and old data. Happens every time i reboot the pi. If i reboot it again, all previous data is magically sorted again, but the newly arriving one will be broken again. After some time in the range of an hour or two, the problem stops, and new data is appended at the right again.
Same exact behaviour at the same exact timings is happening in health, temperature, and ph graph as far as i can tell. Others had this problem as well iirc.
I have an optical sensor hooked to an ATO where the pump relay is reversed. Its set up this way so that I can add saltwater and have the ato empty down to the desired level. That work well, but after its complete the ato will keep triggering intermittently and eventually leave the sensor dry and the pump running.
The pump should not be on when the sensor is dry. Anyone understand whats happening?
The pump should not be on when the sensor is dry. Anyone understand whats happening?
Please disregard this is relay sticking not ATO.
Should I also put an RC snubber on?
i havent massed with them. Ive just had relays get stuck on ac unit and well pumps. (ants climb into controls and get smashed in the contactor.) once they start to arc they start circling the drain. also have welded relays in 12v heavy duty use. like the relays under your hood for the horn. I custom built a control box for a warn wench and it pulled more than the 15amp the relays were rated at and arc welded them in the on position from the sudden high current.
Right on and that looks very odd, the blue is hard on the eyes.Seems to have been just a bad connection.. need a real male-male jst adapter.. for now I have it plugged back into the board with the pot and it's "working".. Just a little dimmer than the other at lower levels, probably due to the resistance on the pot. But it does dim properly, so that's a plus..
This is just odd looking
Snubbers definitely help but without a board to mount the cap and resistor it should probably be avoided for safety. Plus they also leak current so not ideal. The best thing to do is replace relays with better ones like these as they fit the Arduino relay module. They should last longer.
The camera on her phone is weird about blues, it's not that bad really. But the distinct line was real.
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