Community MemberView Badges
- Jul 31, 2014
- Reaction score
Is there somewhere detials one how the OneShot works or what it does?
its somewhere in r2r threads, and not in official documentation (any help welcome).Is there somewhere detials one how the OneShot works or what it does?
Went home last night and checked the probe. Instead of ~0.5/0.6V across the leads to ground, one is open, and the other is 0.5V. I'm going to open up the jacketing tonight where I soldered it to my connector and make sure nothing has broken, but I have new probes coming just in case.I think I found the problem. A quick exchange with @theatrus had me thinking...If one of the probes shorted out, the way I have them connected, it would cause both to have bad readings. I unplugged my probe that is in my tank and the reading for the ambient air probe returned to normal. My guess is the probe finally gave up the ghost, and since I don't have any kind of protection for shorts on my daughtercard I use to connect them to the 1-wire interface, it is causing bad readings on the other probe. I'll be replacing the probe, and plopping a diode or two on the daughtercard, shortly.
Don't worry too much about thermal conductivity, it doesn't really matter if you see a 0.1 degree change now or in 3 minutes. I use aquarium silicone, which is rather isolating thermally, and it's fine, if i put it from 19° air into a 25° bucket of saltwater, it takes maybe a minute, 2 at most, until the sensor shows 25. And if i open a window for fresh air for 5 minutes, it picks up the change in air temperature no problem.Found the problem with the probe haha. Where can I get heat shrink tubing that is thermally conductive? (For my new probes)
If it worked with the old reefpi it should work with the current version as I don't believe they removed any previously supported PH boards. Ph calibration has a GUI.I've been away for a few years but I'm back, I have a version of blueacro that I just saw is no longer available, does the latest version of reef-pi still support the ph module of this board? Is the calibration visual or is it still with the json file?
Welcome to the development thread of reef-pi, an open-source, affordable, modular DIY reef-tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
If you are trying to build a reef-pi controller, please check out the build guides linked below. You can use this thread to seek help and to stay updated with the latest development.
reef-pi provides following functionalities:
A beginner friendly list of reef-pi build guides are available on adafruit.io, if you are planning to build a reef-pi controller start with them.
- Equipment control or automated power strip (including digital timers to switch on/off equipment at periodic intervals)
- LED light control (24 hour cycle), diurnal cycle, fixed dimmig
- Auto Top Off (based on photoelectric water level sensor or float switch)
- Temperature monitoring and control (switch on/off heater & chiller)
- pH monitoring
- Dosing automation
- Macro (feed mode etc)
- And several other features like camera controls (periodic image capture and upload on google drive), telemetry (dashboard and alerting based on sensor values using adafruit.io), mobile friendly UI etc.
Since reef-pi is modular and customizable, the cost of individual builds varies. In our experience reef-pi controller are almost always cheaper than the commercial alternatives and costs anywhere between 100 to 550 USD. An example bill of materials can be found here as amazon list. If you are building a reef-pi controller, I highly encorage you start a build thread and tag it with #reefpi to seek help with your build
- Setup and installation
- Power controller
- Temperature controller
- Auto Top Off
- Light controller
- pH monitor
--------------------------- Original thread start ---------------------
I am starting a master thread for a DIY reef tank controller that is based on all opensource software and hardware. I had started with this project with following goals:
- Build an opensource software and hardware based reeftank controller that anyone can use and hack
- Keep the controller well tested against a set of standard equipment I use, while make it possible for other equipment to be used
- Maintain my own tank build threads and their evolution, backed by this controller.
- Learn electronics and reef keeping along the way (I am biologist by education & software engineer by occupation)
Following are the details of what I have developed & tested till now:
- The main controller software is called reef-pi. It is written in go, its fast and performant. It used embd for hardware communication. It also runs a little web server which provides the UI for the controller. UI is written in React , and can be accessed from anything that has web browser. As of now, the reef-pi supports following things:
- AC 110/220 V socket on/off (uses optocoupled relays underneath). This is used to remotely switch on/off return pump, LED bulb, heater etc.
- 0-20 Volt DC PWM. This is used to control things like dimmable LEDs, DC pumps. I use it to control my Kessil A80, A360. As well as a 5V DC pump (i use it as wave maker in one of my pico with SPS). PWM is done using PCA9685 breakout board from adafruit. This board supports 16 channels. I am using only 5 at max, as of now.
- Analog sensor support using MCP3008 analog to digital converter. This supports 8 channels. i.e. I can use up to 8 sensors/probes. As of now, I have only tested temperature sensor with it.
Other than the following basic hardware/equipment support, the controller software provides following additional features:
- Setting up daily/weekly/monthly scheduled jobs. Like turning on/off certain equipment. I use this feature to run my AC20 HOB filter nightly.
- Setting up dusk-to-dawn like lighting using PWM. The UI gives 12 vertical slider based 0-24 hours (each slider representing 2 hours gaps). I combine two of these two control the kessil LEDs.
- Authentication using Google OAuth. Since the whole controller runs on raspberry pi and provides an web frontend, security of one of my concern. To mitigate this, I have added google authentication support, which when configured will allow only certain users to log in (email specified in the configuration value).
This is the summary of the core controller software and what features it has as of now. I am constantly writing/improving things around it. As of now, I have two reef tank powered by this. I 'll have seperate threads on the individual builds that will include the housing and ancillary hardware in nano-reef.com, as my tank build threads are there, but I'll share all the controller specific common bits here, including UI screen shots, and tank pics
What circuit are you using?@Ranjib
Error in a ph calibration?
maybe i have a problem in my ph probe, but, when i calibrate it, the program says "mid value" and "second value". There is any difference if "mid value" is > "second value" or "mid value" < "second value" because it seems that if the "second value" is less than the "mid value" the real value is not correct.
i made ax example, yesterday i calibrate my ph probe in my tank,
"mid value" = 7
"second value" = 4
now in my tank, the ph is 6.4! if i put the probe in the 7 calibration liquid and i read 7 (+- 0.1 decimals) the same in the 4 calibration liquid.
fortunately, with the liquid test, the ph is 8. (or everything in my tank are dead).
today i'll try with
"mid value" = 4
" second value" = 7
(i tried to read the program on github, but is very difficult without comment )
I don't have at home the ph10 solution now, but my previous ph value was nearly correct from 7,9 to 8.2, I've deleted the ph probe to reset some strange value (for cable management I disconnect the probe but it was always in the water ), after re-adding it I've found this strange values.What circuit are you using?
As I understand calibrating Mid value should be 7.0 and second either 4.0 or 10.0. I think going other way around would mess things up. The value you expect to measure should fall between the two calibration values, as you expect 8 you should be using 7.0 and 10.0 for best results. Not sure if that could cause what you are experiencing though. Do you get close to 8 with no calibration? When viewing the calibration window you see the non-calibrated pH so you should be seeing something different when calibration is open vs closed.
EDIT: @Ranjib, not sure if you ever looked at presenting the slope of a pH probe so users can tell when a probe is bad or getting old.
I think it's ok to use 7 and 4 to calibrate, just better to use 10, either way it should be close. Hopefully a new probe gets it sorted.Recalibration done!
Mid value, ph 4 raw 32350
Second value, ph 7 raw 11600
Tank value, ph 7,83 raw 6106, ph test kit 7,8
my ph probe has a lot of offset value, it's time to replace it
There is a difference between the two calibration
ph8 is near ph7, the point of calibration, so theoretically the value is correctI think it's ok to use 7 and 4 to calibrate, just better to use 10, either way it should be close. Hopefully a new probe gets it sorted.
I found it, was looking for this yesterday. This explains nicely how pH is calculated and shows the formulas. It's all based on mV so I'm not sure how those analog values reef-pi gets from the circuit are translated. This is what my circuit is based on.ph8 is near ph7, the point of calibration, so theoretically the value is correct
I also have a redox probe the ph increase but the redox goes down... problably I need another calibration. Probably the biggest raw value is the "mid value" the second one is the "second value"
the ph probe has a linear trend, so i can use the equation of a line passing through two-point to calibrate my probe and convert my mV to my ph. But, first of all, the signal (mV) needs to be amplified and elaborated by an ADC. So my raw signal is between +32767 -32768.I found it, was looking for this yesterday. This explains nicely how pH is calculated and shows the formulas. It's all based on mV so I'm not sure how those analog values reef-pi gets from the circuit are translated. This is what my circuit is based on.