reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
- Thread starter Ranjib
- Start date
-
- Tags
- controller raspberry-pi
- Tagged users Ranjib
No time like the present to tryYeah they have a couple of versions in stock, was wanting to order the boards assy, if I go this path I have to hand solder the SMT and not sure I have the skill to do it.
With some liquid or tacky flux this goes down very quickly with any old iron. You need the flux.
ColoredRock
Well-Known Member
Very nice... here is mine:
.. and the JASON code to follow. pH is off by around .20 ( have not calibrated it yet.. waiting on new probe) Spikes are me playing around.
ColoredRock
Well-Known Member
Code:
[ICODE]
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bishoptf
Valuable Member
Yeah I have kester tacky flux in a syringe, its good stuff. Did you see my PM, anyway you could take a look at the parts I have laid out from JLPCB. I think I have things covered but would be nice before pulling the trigger.No time like the present to try
With some liquid or tacky flux this goes down very quickly with any old iron. You need the flux.
I found some on pc9685 on newark and going to add some more parts and give it a go.
ColoredRock
Well-Known Member
Yeah they have a couple of versions in stock, was wanting to order the boards assy, if I go this path I have to hand solder the SMT and not sure I have the skill to do it.
It's not as hard as it seems
looks like a time on/off chart on the heater / chiller..
ColoredRock
Well-Known Member
umm... I am still missing something ... for me it like showing me where the steps are to go up the stairs ... then im pretty good.
bishoptf
Valuable Member
Ive been running 3a+ for several years now, they work just fine.
Keep in mind that the starter kit has stuff in it that you will not need, it's a shame the rpi's are so hard to come by these days.
Kraig
Well-Known Member
Yeah, figured I’d spend a little more for the kit and not use everthing in it but if it lets me jump in, it will give me something to do while waiting and fish and corals to come out of QT.Ive been running 3a+ for several years now, they work just fine.
Keep in mind that the starter kit has stuff in it that you will not need, it's a shame the rpi's are so hard to come by these days.
Done and done.
I did make a PCA9685 board once at JLCPCB (ironically, a nixie driver board, works well for that application too) but ended up using the QFN package as the standard narrow pitch SOIC was also unobtanium at the time.
bishoptf
Valuable Member
I can get the 9685 from newark but I wish it was the uln2803 since its so much bigger, lol. The 9685 is pretty tiny, going to give it a try and hope I am able to get it done. Still not sure what to do about the 3.3zener, sigh.
I use this on the real small stuff..
But, a reflow gun and paste solder makes it very easy...
Your solder will tell you what temp to keep it at and keep the air down so that it doesn't blow your parts everywhere. Ask me how I figured that out.
Just started building this board up.. I'm not having fun as I already had one populated, but made a couple small but serious errors and ended up smoking parts and burning thru traces..
The moral of the story, check your parts carefully before soldering.. Check polarity before soldering... I didn't know that a tantalum capacitor could burn a hole almost thru a board when soldered in the wrong way..
The moral of the story, check your parts carefully before soldering.. Check polarity before soldering... I didn't know that a tantalum capacitor could burn a hole almost thru a board when soldered in the wrong way..
The technique to use is drag soldering. Big tips, big solder, flux, and a little wick to clean up the occasional bridge you can't clear with flux and a clean tip.
Its ok to literally have everything swimming in flux for this.
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