reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

geologeek

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Thanks for the reply Sral

I would recommend to save your Reef-PI's database using WinSCP for example. Settings are pretty much the same as for Putty.


I have followed the advice - but there only appears to be old databases (reef-pi 3.5 and 4.0) in there and nothing with the newer more recent database for 5.3...........This is not really an issue as i need to do a full rebuild anyway, just something that caught my eye.

i do like the look of WinSCP - so thanks for that!
 
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Sral

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Thanks for the reply Sral




I have followed the advice - but there only appears to be old databases (reef-pi 3.5 and 4.0) in there and nothing with the newer more recent database for 5.3...........This is not really an issue as i need to do a full rebuild anyway, just something that caught my eye.

i do like the look of WinSCP - so thanks for that!
You're very welcome !
I do however believe that those files have been old instal files. The Troubleshooting Guide mentions the DataBase location as:
Code:
Database storage file (default "/var/lib/reef-pi/reef-pi.db")

You can also download the file in newer Versions from the Reef-Pi Configuration Tab -> Admin, if I remember correctly.
 

tyronbes

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Welcome to the club !
I didn't have to do any coding for my Outlets. Personally I used an 8 channel Relay board from Robotank and connected that to my Raspberry Pi Zero on the GPIO Pins Number 7,8,9,10,11,23,24,25 using a ULN2803A transistor brick (Bottom part of the circuit drawing):
PiUnit_schem.png


OUT1 to OUT8 feed directly into the Relay board IN1 to IN8 as displyed here (not that visible, but the DB9 connector pins at the bottom feed directly into the IN1 to IN8 pins of the board, which are soldered directly to this mint board, just in front of the DIP18 socket and the lower row of screw terminals with the color coded wires from the DB9 connector):
4e99d86c-ade4-4b2c-aa98-693c1ed6cc4d-jpeg.2721327


I defined the PIns as outlet Connectors in the Configuration Tab:
1668341893636.png


I then defined some Equipment that uses those Outlets in the Equipment Tab:
1668342123157.png
Hmm, the relay is the same one I found on amazon, granted I wish I remembered robo-tank haha prices are cheaper than the one I got on amazon! Anyway, interesting that your using the uln2803a, none of the tutorials I've seen mentioned anything about it. I'll pick one of those guys up and try it again, also!! Thabk you for providing the wiring diagram! That's by far the most detailed drawing ive seen so far. I'm sure it's going to help me out and a bunch of others tremendously!
 

Sral

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Hmm, the relay is the same one I found on amazon, granted I wish I remembered robo-tank haha prices are cheaper than the one I got on amazon! Anyway, interesting that your using the uln2803a, none of the tutorials I've seen mentioned anything about it. I'll pick one of those guys up and try it again, also!! Thabk you for providing the wiring diagram! That's by far the most detailed drawing ive seen so far. I'm sure it's going to help me out and a bunch of others tremendously!
You’re welcome ! Those relay boards can be a little tricky, you need to supply them their VCC (for me 5V), GND and the 8 signal pins. The relay actually activates when the Input Pin is connected to GND and can sink around 5mA.That’s why you should use a transistor, be it a n-MOSFET or npn transistor. You actually don’t even need the pull-up resistors I have used there, since the signal is a current, not a voltage.
 
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zab34

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On another note. I have fully 3d printed a rollermat that is now controlled by Pi.

right now I’d like setup it up a timer to activate the motor until I get the float switch fully dialed into position.
 

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geologeek

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Can anyone point me to a guide for the syntax on timers?
The best I found was user manuals from robotank who has a load of useful manuals in Google docs....


The information you want is in there....

Screenshot_20221113_180012.jpg
Screenshot_20221113_180033.jpg
 
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zab34

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The best I found was user manuals from robotank who has a load of useful manuals in Google docs....


The information you want is in there....

Screenshot_20221113_180012.jpg
Screenshot_20221113_180033.jpg
Tremendously helpful. Thanks!
 
AS

Tom Bishop

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On another note. I have fully 3d printed a rollermat that is now controlled by Pi.

right now I’d like setup it up a timer to activate the motor until I get the float switch fully dialed into position.
Id like to make one, have you posted the files on thingiverse or how can I get a hold of the files. Would also love to know about the dimensions, I have a small sump but would love to figure out how to incorporate it into my setup.

Thanks
 

Tom Bishop

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On another note, I have a fully modified 165W viparspectra with moon lights that I am selling, have it listed on ebay right now but most are wanting me to put it back on stock timers which is lame, if anyone is interested in more information shoot me a PM. Basically set up to control the 2 main led channels then there is led strips that is also controlled via reef-pi. I went with a larger unit and this one has been sitting around and thought someone else should be getting some use out of it.
 

zab34

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Id like to make one, have you posted the files on thingiverse or how can I get a hold of the files. Would also love to know about the dimensions, I have a small sump but would love to figure out how to incorporate it into my setup.

Thanks
I have not yet. It has only been on my tank for a few days. The print was also rather large about the size of shoebox once assembled. Most components were printed on my sidewinder x1, as the parts were too large for the prusa.
 
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Tom Bishop

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I have not yet. It has only been on my tank for a few days. The print was also rather large about the size of shoebox once assembled. Most components were printed on my sidewinder x1, as the parts were too large for the prusa.
Bummer I have a smaller 3d printer but I would still be interested in the files since I would like to try to scale things down for my nano tank, looks like something that would be neat to play with over the winter. Even if I can get the stl files I can chop and slice things up, once you have it fully operational would be nice to see all the details. I would probably just use it on a timer, would be a simple path and probably work most of the time.
 

larrybari

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Sorry to Jest but this error message sort of makes it sound like your ATO bucket is empty. lol Anyways hopefully figure it out.
Haha! I didn't catch the irony of that error message earlier! Nonetheless, I still have not figured this out, which means my graphs can't be reset and I can't really tell the regularity and the length of time the pump is running at a glance...
I was thinking that perhaps there is a way of resetting the logs for the ato other than the button in the ato settings...
 
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tyronbes

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Tremendously helpful. Thanks!
Man!! I'm so dismayed. I was going through the manual, put all my credentials in, hit update. Then reboot and my pi froze, turned off and never turned back on. I just have the red power led come in. Nothing with the activity light. I tried 3 different ad cards, different power cords. I read about the polyfuse, so I'll let it sit for a few days, but man that sucked!
 

geologeek

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My Eheim went for a swim recently so I popped it open after doing a full wash and dry cycle. Still works.
You’ll want to signal the K1 or K2 buttons, in the picture orientation left to right. The edge of the board is battery ground and the inner button contact should be brought to ground to activate.

18916710-6FCD-4520-A398-46CCC4249A74.jpeg
Is there any chance you could elaborate on how you are pulling the switch to ground? I have a different feeder I want to use but I need to figure out how to bypass the manual feed button by pulling it to ground via reef-pi.

Thanks in advance......
 

tyronbes

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You’re welcome ! Those relay boards can be a little tricky, you need to supply them their VCC (for me 5V), GND and the 8 signal pins. The relay actually activates when the Input Pin is connected to GND and can sink around 5mA.That’s why you should use a transistor, be it a n-MOSFET or npn transistor. You actually don’t even need the pull-up resistors I have used there, since the signal is a current, not a voltage.
Thank you, I'll definitely take a look at getting a transistor, unfortunately my pi went down after trying to reboot. I cant get any activity out of it and I've tried 3 different sd cards, all of which I know to work. Kinda at a loss on what happened to it
 
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