reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[b4tn]

Try bypassing the barrel connector all together. Every single one of those connectors that I got had issues. Plus they short internally when you remove or insert them so you need to power off when taking it out. In the end I got a different type of connector.

 

[Schreiber]

Can you power down the unit and run a set of connectivity tests with multi meter across 3.3v, GND and data pins. Cross check if any of those are shorted,

I have connectivity across the 3.3V & GPIO 4 pin. I should be seeing that though, correct? Based off the fritzing diagram, GPIO 4 is connected both to the barrel jack & the 3.3V line (by means of the 4.7k resistor). No connectivity across any others though.

Try bypassing the barrel connector all together. Every single one of those connectors that I got had issues. Plus they short internally when you remove or insert them so you need to power off when taking it out. In the end I got a different type of connector.

I'll work on doing this & report back.

Edit: Bypassing it all together still doesn't work.;Hurting

 

[theatrus]

Im curious why the swing is heading upwards ?

Replaced the calibration fluid with some fresh one, back at the original number.

 

[16Reefer170]

-

 

[Schreiber]

Is there any way to test my temperature sensors to see if they're functioning? I'm at a loss what else to try at this point. I've traced through all the connections & I'm pretty positive everything is solid. Except possibly the 3.3V I'm reading at the GPIO 4 pin. But I'm assuming I should be seeing that, since it's connected to the 3.3V line via the resistor.

 

[PaulJ2303]

Hello guys,
here is my Reef Pi thread:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef-pi-on-a-wish-and-a-prayer.594848/

its all a bit preliminary right now ;Happy

 

[AquaRaider44]

Hello guys,
here is my Reef Pi thread:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef-pi-on-a-wish-and-a-prayer.594848/

its all a bit preliminary right now ;Happy

Looks nice.

 

[AquaRaider44]

Is there any way to test my temperature sensors to see if they're functioning? I'm at a loss what else to try at this point. I've traced through all the connections & I'm pretty positive everything is solid. Except possibly the 3.3V I'm reading at the GPIO 4 pin. But I'm assuming I should be seeing that, since it's connected to the 3.3V line via the resistor.

Correct mine also reads 3.3v on gpio 4

 

[AquaRaider44]

@Schreiber, unfortunately, there might not be anything you can do except for start from scratch again and follow every guide to a T.

 

[b4tn]

Is there any way to test my temperature sensors to see if they're functioning? I'm at a loss what else to try at this point. I've traced through all the connections & I'm pretty positive everything is solid. Except possibly the 3.3V I'm reading at the GPIO 4 pin. But I'm assuming I should be seeing that, since it's connected to the 3.3V line via the resistor.

One wire seems to be enabled since you are getting w1_bus_master1 as an output. If you can trace all your wires and all is wired correctly the Raspberry is not detecting your temp probe. How are you powering your raspberry? I am not a big fan of those type of proto boards but it appears to be wired correctly.

 

[Schreiber]

@Schreiber, unfortunately, there might not be anything you can do except for start from scratch again and follow every guide to a T.

That's what it's looking like. I'm really regretting soldering directly to the Pi pins now, lol.

One wire seems to be enabled since you are getting w1_bus_master1 as an output. If you can trace all your wires and all is wired correctly the Raspberry is not detecting your temp probe. How are you powering your raspberry? I am not a big fan of those type of proto boards but it appears to be wired correctly.

I'm powering it via micro USB. It's a 5V 2A supply, so I shouldn't be having issues there. I'm very much not a fan of them either anymore after all of this. I'm probably just going to do my next one on a breadboard & test it out that way before soldering.

 

[bishoptf]

That's what it's looking like. I'm really regretting soldering directly to the Pi pins now, lol.




I'm powering it via micro USB. It's a 5V 2A supply, so I shouldn't be having issues there. I'm very much not a fan of them either anymore after all of this. I'm probably just going to do my next one on a breadboard & test it out that way before soldering.

So you did not use a proto hat? I looked back for a picture but did not see one. I did all of my work on an ada fruit proto hat called out in the Ada fruit guides, I have three temp probes and followed the guides, they worked first try. I also missed if you have multiple probes to try, if none work I would be looking at the wiring, and verifying continuity of the circuit. Which version of software are you using for you OS and Reef-pi?

 

[b4tn]

@Tom Bishop here it is.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/r...-on-raspberry-pi.289256/page-546#post-6018268

 

[bishoptf]

@Tom Bishop here it is.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/r...-on-raspberry-pi.289256/page-546#post-6018268

Thanks on my phone it's hard to go back and find stuff, figured it had to be posted. :)

I'm so noobish to my electronic works I followed the adafruit guides by @Ranjib and really made sure I understood how things were wired up, hard to see from the pics what it could be, I still think with power off doing continuity checks not a bad idea before tearing it back down.

 

[Schreiber]

So you did not use a proto hat? I looked back for a picture but did not see one. I did all of my work on an ada fruit proto hat called out in the Ada fruit guides, I have three temp probes and followed the guides, they worked first try. I also missed if you have multiple probes to try, if none work I would be looking at the wiring, and verifying continuity of the circuit. Which version of software are you using for you OS and Reef-pi?

I didn't use the protohat, adafruit is out of stock. I just used a regular protoboard & made the connections myself.

All of the connections seems to be fine as far as I can tell- I'm getting 3.3V at the headphone jack. I'm not really sure what else I could check at this point.

I tried versions 2.2 & 2.3. Latest update of NOOBS on the Pi.

I've got 5 temp probes & all had the same issue, so I doubt they're the cause.

 

[AquaRaider44]

I didn't use the protohat, adafruit is out of stock. I just used a regular protoboard & made the connections myself.

All of the connections seems to be fine as far as I can tell- I'm getting 3.3V at the headphone jack. I'm not really sure what else I could check at this point.

I tried versions 2.2 & 2.3. Latest update of NOOBS on the Pi.

I've got 5 temp probes & all had the same issue, so I doubt they're the cause.

I use raspbian on all of my pi's so I'm not sure if its the same or not.

 

[Schreiber]

I use raspbian on all of my pi's so I'm not sure if its the same or not.

Sorry, should have specified I'm using Raspbian. NOOBS is just a bundle that makes it quick & easy to start up a new Pi, comes with Raspbian as the main OS.

 

[Bigtrout]

Buy a @Michael Lane hat...saves alot of time money and hassle!! It socket mounts right to the 40 pin pi connector and all sensors etc plug in with connectors.

https://www.tindie.com/products/Ranthalion/ml-reef-pi-hat-v2/

 

[bishoptf]

Buy a @Michael Lane hat...saves alot of time money and hassle!! It socket mounts right to the 40 pin pi connector and all sensors etc plug in with connectors.

https://www.tindie.com/products/Ranthalion/ml-reef-pi-hat-v2/

+1
That's an understatement and for sure the easy path, there are other options also like @theatrus pico boards etc. Those are the quick and painless route for sure. :)

I kind of wanted to see if I could build it myself, not going to win any looks purty contests, but allowed me to learn how each part works in the circuit and for me that was most of the fun. :)

 

[bishoptf]

@Bigtrout look at this new buck converter that I purchased. The lm2596 converter that I have on reef-pi has been pretty solid but I have another rpi build for another project that I used one on and the voltage drops over time. It's not constant but I noticed the red power led flashing from time to time and when I checked the voltage it was a tad low.

This converter is based on an xl4015, supposedly support 5amps vs the lm2596 which is 3amps. I know neither will really support that rating but wanted to see if this will be more stable in my other build. I think it's drawing more power since it has to power a ADS-B usb receiver. It even ces with a stick on heatsink, that's got to make things work better, lol. ;)