reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

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So, update-still no luck. I think there's a good chance I shorted that connection when I took the heat shrink off, so that probably wasn't the problem initially.

Here are pictures of how I have everything wired. I've double checked & I definitely have continuity along the ground & line wires.

20190505_150046.jpg


20190505_150056.jpg


I'm sure I have the male audio connector wired correctly, but the guide is really vague on the female. Currently, I have it wired with the red on the left, black in center yellow on right. (With the long connector on the table, rather than in the air, & the female port facing away from me)
 

AquaRaider44

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So, update-still no luck. I think there's a good chance I shorted that connection when I took the heat shrink off, so that probably wasn't the problem initially.

Here are pictures of how I have everything wired. I've double checked & I definitely have continuity along the ground & line wires.

20190505_150046.jpg


20190505_150056.jpg
So a couple of ideas. 1. You could have shorted it. 2. You could have broken it with too much current. What are you using as power source or what is buck converter set on. 3. What resistor is that?
 

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So a couple of ideas. 1. You could have shorted it. 2. You could have broken it with too much current. What are you using as power source or what is buck converter set on. 3. What resistor is that?

1. Could have shorted which part? I've gone back & inspected both the male & female ends of the audio connector soldering & both are good for sure now. Are you talking about the sensor itself? I may just go ahead & wire another one to see if I get any better results.

2. I'm just using the micro USB as a power source for now. it's a 5V 2a charger, shouldn't be any issues there.

3. Resistor is a 4.7k
 

AquaRaider44

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1. Could have shorted which part? I've gone back & inspected both the male & female ends of the audio connector soldering & both are good for sure now. Are you talking about the sensor itself? I may just go ahead & wire another one to see if I get any better results.

2. I'm just using the micro USB as a power source for now. it's a 5V 2a charger, shouldn't be any issues there.

3. Resistor is a 4.7k
If you shorted the sensor it could have killed it. I would try another if you have one. Make sure your wireing is right first
 

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Look at it

The way I have it soldered on, I can't actually see if there's continuity. However, I just confirmed there is a good connection with my multimeter from the backside of the pi to the wire connected to the pin.

I'm still getting this error:
{"error":"Item 'usage' does not exist in bucket 'temperature'"} | HTTP 404

I assume that just means it doesn't detect the sensor.

I'm going to keep messing with it, but I'm pretty much out of ideas. I've rebuilt the entire thing at this point
 

AquaRaider44

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The way I have it soldered on, I can't actually see if there's continuity. However, I just confirmed there is a good connection with my multimeter from the backside of the pi to the wire connected to the pin.

I'm still getting this error:
{"error":"Item 'usage' does not exist in bucket 'temperature'"} | HTTP 404

I assume that just means it doesn't detect the sensor.

I'm going to keep messing with it, but I'm pretty much out of ideas. I've rebuilt the entire thing at this point
Check the resistor is actually 4.7 I have had bad ones before
 

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Check the resistor is actually 4.7 I have had bad ones before

I wish it were that simple :( It's measuring at 4.64k. I just double checked & I'm definitely getting 3.3V at the female jack. I'm looking into info right now on exactly what should be wired where for aux cords.
 

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So, update. Still not working, here are the things I've verified:

  1. No short in the sensor.
  2. Correctly wired
  3. Getting 3.3V at the sensor.
  4. Connection to the GPIO pin.
I traced it through, the red wire is connected to the tip of the male end & the tip socket of the female end. Black is connected to the bottom, & yellow to the middle. I've also tried swapping the yellow & red, no luck.

Edit: At the jack, I'm seeing 3.3V on both the red & yellow wires. I know the resistor is there to pull the signal up to 3.3V when there's no signal... So does that indicate there's something wrong with the sensor?
 
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Further updates on the pH side. BRS Double Junction probe with the new v2 I2C firmware on the blueAcro Pico board:

ph4.png


This is sitting in the pH 10 calibration solution. The daily temperature changes are obvious at this chart level, but full span from pH 7 to pH 10 represent a 0.06 pH error over about 15 degrees F (68-82 F). Since we don't oscillate reef tanks that much its not really useful to add temperature compensation, however it may be worthwhile if a freshwater habitat goes through wider swings or outdoor / pond applications.
Im curious why the swing is heading upwards ?
 
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Ranjib

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So, update. Still not working, here are the things I've verified:

  1. No short in the sensor.
  2. Correctly wired
  3. Getting 3.3V at the sensor.
  4. Connection to the GPIO pin.
I traced it through, the red wire is connected to the tip of the male end & the tip socket of the female end. Black is connected to the bottom, & yellow to the middle. I've also tried swapping the yellow & red, no luck.

Edit: At the jack, I'm seeing 3.3V on both the red & yellow wires. I know the resistor is there to pull the signal up to 3.3V when there's no signal... So does that indicate there's something wrong with the sensor?
Can you power down the unit and run a set of connectivity tests with multi meter across 3.3v, GND and data pins. Cross check if any of those are shorted,
 

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Try bypassing the barrel connector all together. Every single one of those connectors that I got had issues. Plus they short internally when you remove or insert them so you need to power off when taking it out. In the end I got a different type of connector.
 

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Can you power down the unit and run a set of connectivity tests with multi meter across 3.3v, GND and data pins. Cross check if any of those are shorted,

I have connectivity across the 3.3V & GPIO 4 pin. I should be seeing that though, correct? Based off the fritzing diagram, GPIO 4 is connected both to the barrel jack & the 3.3V line (by means of the 4.7k resistor). No connectivity across any others though.

Try bypassing the barrel connector all together. Every single one of those connectors that I got had issues. Plus they short internally when you remove or insert them so you need to power off when taking it out. In the end I got a different type of connector.

I'll work on doing this & report back.

Edit: Bypassing it all together still doesn't work.;Hurting
 
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Is there any way to test my temperature sensors to see if they're functioning? I'm at a loss what else to try at this point. I've traced through all the connections & I'm pretty positive everything is solid. Except possibly the 3.3V I'm reading at the GPIO 4 pin. But I'm assuming I should be seeing that, since it's connected to the 3.3V line via the resistor.
 

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