Yes.. you can use the reef-pi dB command against system bucket to update the ssl settings, check troubleshooting docs for details. It will involve stopping reef-pi and editing Json file.
When you reload reef-pi it will log what port and ip it’s using . That should give you clue on how to access it,I dug the hole deeperI managed to get logged in like mentioned after several reboots. Went to the admin console and changed the drop down from https to http. Reboot and now can’t get back in again. I think maybe I did not put a :80 after the 0.0.0.0. I backed up the database and reinstalled reefpi which worked great until I restored the database and it brought back my old IP settings. So I’m back to everything running but can’t access it. Any ideas to get back into the web console so I can fix my ip settings?
If you restart pi, the hs300 driver get wedged due to reef-pi starting before network, just reload reef-pi (not restart pi) and thing should get back to normal,Having some issues with HS300.
I had the HS300 setup and Reef-pi controlling a single plug as a test. Then I powered off the HS300 to mount it, now I get errors in reef-pi when trying to add the other plugs and control the previously working plug.
I tried restarting the reef-pi and also checked the IP is the same on the hs300.
screenshots attached:
Let us know how you like the macro system, I plan to improve it over the course of this year and future, going forward macro will become the foundation of many high level automation and it’s very important we sort out all the bugs and make it stable
That will be nice
thank you @robsworld78 , I have followed your thread for a long time, since from iAqua in the planted tank forum https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/...ch-interface-aquarium-controller-arduino.html, which until now my controller is still running well.Here's an example I was shown from @Des Westcott, he's the macro specialist and teaching me.
I'll try and explain as I understand it. This example uses a low/high level sensor to control separate pumps just like you're after. It also has an ATO sensor that gets disabled but you can ignore that.
I assume you setup your two sensors in the ATO tab, in this example that is 'AWC Out' (low level) and 'AWC in' (high level). When you setup these 'ATO' sensors have the low level set to control the drain pump and the high level should control the fill pump.
Sounds like you have your pumps setup correctly.
Now you need to create a 'Macro' to control everything. You might want to create two, call one 'Manual AWC' and the other 'Auto AWC'. There's a slight "glitch" with macros, if you want to use a timer to trigger the macro you need to setup the 'Steps' in reverse and set the 'Reversible' drop down box to 'Yes'. This is why you need 2 macros so you can better test it and run the AWC manually.
Let's go through each 'Steps' in the macro.
- The first step is optional and sounds like it doesn't apply to you but if you did have an ATO sensor you would first need to disable this sensor while the AWC runs.
- Now you want to enable the low level sensor (AWC Out) which will be sensing water. As soon as you 'Turn On' this sensor the pump it's controlling should turn on and water will start draining. If your sensor turns the pump on when no water is sensed, aka backwards, you need to go to the sensors 'Connector' and change the 'Reverse' option.
- Now you add a 'Wait' period to your macro, this is the longest you want you drain pump to run and should turn off your pump even if the lower sensor fails. The idea is the macro allows the drain system to run for a maximum of 300 seconds or whatever you choose. The next step won't run until this 'Wait' period expires.
- Now you 'Turn Off' the AWC Out sensor as it's no longer needed as your water has been drained. You could insert an extra step after this to turn off the actual drain pump, basically a make sure its off kind of thing.
- Now you 'Turn On' the AWC In sensor which is the high level sensor. Once this turns on it will startup the refill pump as it's not sensing any water. If your sensor turns the pump on when water is sensed, aka backwards, you need to go to the sensors 'Connector' and change the 'Reverse' option.
- Now you add another 'Wait' period, again this is the maximum you want the refill pump to run and should be set longer than it typically takes to refill your tank as you want the sensor to turn the pump off but obviously not long enough to cause a flood if the high level sensor failed. The next step won't run until this 'Wait' period expires.
- Now you can add a 'Step' to 'Turn Off' the high level sensor as the water change is complete. You could insert an extra step after this step to turn off the actual refill pump, basically a make sure its off kind of thing.
- And finally if you do have an ATO sensor setup as well you can turn this back on so your ATO will run as normal again.
Hope this helps, you might have to read it a few times as I typically need to rewrite things about 3 times before others can understand my gibberish.
The important thing to remember is the above represents running the macro manually. To run this macro via a timer you need to create the 'Steps' in reverse and set 'Reversible' to 'Yes', don't forget this or you will be chasing your tail.
Did you reload reef-pi after enabling ph capability ?Hello, I need a help to properly configure Reef-pi
on https://github.com/reef-pi/drivers I can found the PH-DRIVER to use ADS1115 for my PH probe.
i follow these steps:
Adding the ADS1115
Adding the Analog input (i can use only the 0 input on the board)
Adding the inputs in the PH tab
But i have only the 404 error
there is something i miss? there are other documentations I cannot found? @Ranjib any suggestion?
At this point I want to make everything work with Reef-Pi if I can 
I am sorry to say that I have nothing to help you with a360x for the moment. I don't know what protocol it uses , there's no doc or any other code to understand the details :-(
For wave makers, I believe we have most things needed on the software side,, we have to sort out the pump specific circuit and then may be polish the UI a bit. Here is what I would do if I'm in your shoe:thanks for confirming my choice on getting an older WE Kessil instead of the x
@Ranjib any thoughts on how to tackle wavemakers? I don’t mind getting my hands dirty in some code, but also don’t want to reinvent the wheel/tread on toes if you guys already have plans/have it sorted already.
Welcome to reef2reef
Just wanted to highlight on this topic, that the pwm output -> wavemaker part is still not sorted out. Rest is not a big deal. We have some idea how to do it (BEMF/BDLC drivers) but never tested. Hence that's the unknown we have to tackle.
reef-pi 3.0 introduced HAL which should make adding new driver pretty easy. As of now I have written shelly, dli web powerswitch and couple of other drivers. If you know the Tuya firmware's API then that will be our starting point. I can assist, but testing these things are bit harder for me since I don't physically use them. Most of my equipment worked without custom firmware. Shelly is opensource, which makes it very appealing in particular (and I think they are available in EU). I would avoid custom firmware support in cases where mainlining is a known impossible (i.e. the feature in consideration is explicitly called out as wont be supported by the original manufacturer). For rest of the use cases, it should be kosher. Tuya is very popular among the home automation folks, I would definitely lend a hand. I'll be landing the mqtt integration soonish..
