reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
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Martin Lowry
Community Member
Thanks, I followed what @AbjectMaelstroM suggested and it worked. I now have an EHEIM feeder hooked up, (kudos @robsworld78 for details on how to hookup the EHEIM). Created a timer that kicks off a macro that turns off wave makers and pumps, waits, activates the feeder, waits for 3-4 minutes then turns everything back on again. Pretty slick!I wote a detailed post around my findings and work-arounds on this exact thing a few pages back. I'll try find it.
EDIT - Found it.
Post no 13 899 on 19 Feb 2020
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
Ok I understand, how do you assign pin number to pi, so pin 8 cant be same as pin 8 on hat..?www.reef2reef.com
Well, looks good on the test bench.... Hoping to get things hooked up to my 65 FOWLR soon.
I'm powering the EHEIM from one of the 3.3v pins designated for a temp probe on the ML Goby Hat. Wondering if it may draw too much current from the Hat... Seems to work just fine but like I said, it's on the test bench and not in production.... @Michael Lane Thoughts?
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AbjectMaelstroM
Valuable Member
So something weird happened.
I just setup RoboTank controller hooked up to the temp probe (never touched water), set it to read temp every 5 seconds and it was trucking along.
As soon as I dropped it in the sump, probe started throwing error:
temperature sub-system. Failed to read sensor SumpTemp. Error:First line of device file does not ends with YES
I replaced the probe for one I had running on my old controller, same thing just throwing errors and won't read temp changes. I tested for stray voltage and not getting anything in the tank, both AC and DC.
Ideas?
@robsworld78
Edit: also get this error
temperature sub-system. Failed to read sensor SumpTemp. Error:eek:pen /sys/bus/w1/devices/28-00000bc72046/w1_slave: no such file or directory
And probe disappears from drop down.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Edit #2: Plugged in PH probe and as soon as the probe enabled or you go into calibration it starts throwing this error non-stop:
ph subsystem: Failed read probe:pHError:strconv.ParseFloat: parsing "8.306\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x80\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x80": invalid syntax
i2c detect showing ph on 63 hex 99 dec. Ph set to 99 in driver, ezo board, in connectors pin 0 selected.
I just setup RoboTank controller hooked up to the temp probe (never touched water), set it to read temp every 5 seconds and it was trucking along.
As soon as I dropped it in the sump, probe started throwing error:
temperature sub-system. Failed to read sensor SumpTemp. Error:First line of device file does not ends with YES
I replaced the probe for one I had running on my old controller, same thing just throwing errors and won't read temp changes. I tested for stray voltage and not getting anything in the tank, both AC and DC.
Ideas?
@robsworld78
Edit: also get this error
temperature sub-system. Failed to read sensor SumpTemp. Error:eek:pen /sys/bus/w1/devices/28-00000bc72046/w1_slave: no such file or directory
And probe disappears from drop down.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Edit #2: Plugged in PH probe and as soon as the probe enabled or you go into calibration it starts throwing this error non-stop:
ph subsystem: Failed read probe:pHError:strconv.ParseFloat: parsing "8.306\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x80\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00\x80": invalid syntax
i2c detect showing ph on 63 hex 99 dec. Ph set to 99 in driver, ezo board, in connectors pin 0 selected.
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AbjectMaelstroM
Valuable Member
Slight update to the issue I had above. I swapped out for a temp porbe that's coated in silicone and so far it seems to be holding.
When I pulled the new temp probe (not coated in silicone) it stated working again.
This again leads me to be live its a voltage or a short, not sure what would cause this behavior.
When I pulled the new temp probe (not coated in silicone) it stated working again.
This again leads me to be live its a voltage or a short, not sure what would cause this behavior.
I just built my Reef-Pi controller following the guides and equipment lists on Adafruit, and so far it appears to be working perfectly. I've only installed and setup the power controller so far, setup and operations seemed pretty straight-forward. I'm going to add the temperature probe next to control my heater, and may add the pH probe after that.
My current question has to do with the equipment power control and being able to automate some functions.
To start off, I created a macro called "feed" to shut down my skimmer for an hour when I feed, and it appears to work correctly when triggered from the macro page. My question is, is there a way to trigger this from the dashboard? I don't see a way to add macros or other triggers on the dashboard. My plan was to add a small touch-screen display to the system that can be mounted near my tank to see the dashboard and trigger macro events like feeding or water changes. If I cant get everything to trigger from the dashboard, what other options are there? Is there a way to connect an external button or switch that when pressed will trigger specific macros?
I haven't setup the pH probe yet, but when it's set up, can the system be configured to shut down my doser (plugged in to one of the controlled equipment outlets) if my pH goes above a set level?
I also saw email alerts, can I set it to send me emails if the temp goes too high or the pH suddenly spikes?
I'm still learning the Raspberry Pi and Linux/Raspbian, so I'm a noob at this, but always willing to experiment and try to figure things out, so any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks!
Bob
My current question has to do with the equipment power control and being able to automate some functions.
To start off, I created a macro called "feed" to shut down my skimmer for an hour when I feed, and it appears to work correctly when triggered from the macro page. My question is, is there a way to trigger this from the dashboard? I don't see a way to add macros or other triggers on the dashboard. My plan was to add a small touch-screen display to the system that can be mounted near my tank to see the dashboard and trigger macro events like feeding or water changes. If I cant get everything to trigger from the dashboard, what other options are there? Is there a way to connect an external button or switch that when pressed will trigger specific macros?
I haven't setup the pH probe yet, but when it's set up, can the system be configured to shut down my doser (plugged in to one of the controlled equipment outlets) if my pH goes above a set level?
I also saw email alerts, can I set it to send me emails if the temp goes too high or the pH suddenly spikes?
I'm still learning the Raspberry Pi and Linux/Raspbian, so I'm a noob at this, but always willing to experiment and try to figure things out, so any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks!
Bob
AbjectMaelstroM
Valuable Member
As for toggling things from the dashboard, currently that is not possible. Neither are physical buttons, but I think some tried to simulate it by using a faux float switch, but don't quote me.
Yes, you can use a ph probe to trigger a piece of equipment plugged into the power bar.
For email alerts, yes you can set it to notify you if temp goes outside a specified range. Same with PH.
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GaryE
Well-Known Member
Got as far as I could today, realized once I started soldering that I didn't order capacitors.. DOH!
Also discovered a mistake, the sht31d is wired backward, so I lose a temp sensor and dosing port on this board.
That will be corrected on the next iteration. Also discovered when I got this board from JCLPCB that I put the wrong sized headers on 2 places and omitted the onboard db18b20. I want to include that in the event that someone doesn't want to use the more expensive sht31d, plus I like options.
The next iteration will also use more SMD parts, so almost all of it will be shipped from the board manufacturer populated. Should reduce the cost and time to build. Will mostly be left with just headers and connectors to solder on.
the next iteration will also be somewhat smaller..
Also discovered a mistake, the sht31d is wired backward, so I lose a temp sensor and dosing port on this board.
That will be corrected on the next iteration. Also discovered when I got this board from JCLPCB that I put the wrong sized headers on 2 places and omitted the onboard db18b20. I want to include that in the event that someone doesn't want to use the more expensive sht31d, plus I like options.
The next iteration will also use more SMD parts, so almost all of it will be shipped from the board manufacturer populated. Should reduce the cost and time to build. Will mostly be left with just headers and connectors to solder on.
the next iteration will also be somewhat smaller..
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I don't know how much current the Eheim requires, but I would guess it's more than a few milliamps since it has a motor. The 3.3v pin is basically the same as pin 1 or pin 17 on the rpi. It comes from the 3.3v regulator on the rpi.
You may not experience any issues, but it could possibly result in brownouts and resets on the rpi.
robsworld78
Valuable Member
I'm pretty sure it's a bug. I'm not in dev mode and using my circuit but if mine isn't working Atlas isn't work, they both do the R thing. Seems to only happen with a fresh install of v3.4 meaning never had reef-pi installed previously, after getting it to work once it seems to always add. I'm going to go through more tests to try and pin it so you can replicate.
Thanks, I updated the setup manual where you add connectors and sorry for the confusion. The 12v is to power the DC ports for dosing pumps, ATO etc.
It's sad there's no other power bars available, I've been recommending the Kasa as an alternative. I set mine up like this so it can be connected direct to any Arduino or Pi pin and I can't believe nothing like this exists. I think it's a fairly big market, lots of people don't like wireless so why can't IoT or someone make a power bar like their simple little 4 outlet bar. If I had money I would get a board certified and proper case.
Not sure what you mean by 5v digital outputs? The DB9 outputs are only 3.3v from the Pi but the sensor ports are 5v compatible but work with 3.3v if you use the 3.3v on feeder port to power it.
Are you still having temp issues? Did you try another port in case I didn't solder a pin? They're all connected to same pin on Pi. If you still have issues maybe send me a message or start a new thread so we don't clutter this one.
The pH issue is an I2C clock stretching problem, the drivers for Pi for some reason don't support this so there's some sensors that will give errors. My pH uses an ATtiny85 and does this using the standard library. I put this in the install manual but forgot about the main manual, you can find it here.
Robo-Tank Setup Deluxe Controller for reef-pi Manual.docx
Setup Deluxe Controller for reef-pi Manual May 26, 2020 – Version 1.0 Safety Reminder READ & FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS DANGER Never handle electrical equipment with wet hands special care should be taken since water is employed in the use of aquarium equipment Do not attemp...
robsworld78
Valuable Member
Got as far as I could today, realized once I started soldering that I didn't order capacitors.. DOH!
Also discovered a mistake, the sht31d is wired backward, so I lose a temp sensor and dosing port on this board.
That will be corrected on the next iteration. Also discovered when I got this board from JCLPCB that I put the wrong sized headers on 2 places and omitted the onboard db18b20. I want to include that in the event that someone doesn't want to use the more expensive sht31d, plus I like options.
The next iteration will also use more SMD parts, so almost all of it will be shipped from the board manufacturer populated. Should reduce the cost and time to build. Will mostly be left with just headers and connectors to solder on.
the next iteration will also be somewhat smaller..
Looking good, one thing I noticed is the holder for the Atlas pH circuit, does the board have isolation for that? If only the Atlas circuit is plugged without their isolation carrier board it probably won't work very well for most. I can't touch a probe to my water without isolation. Years ago I bought just the Atlas circuit and it's useless.
3 independent thoughts.. maybe 4. Some of these maybe best for the development thread, but I forgot the link.. for that thread.. I think this was asked before.. but
1) can we develop a drop for anything that is clearly not an accurate reading? I'd much prefer that to the graph attached..
2) it would be really great to not have pH graph from 0-12.. custom range is fine. I can't really tell on the graph the level changes daily without mousing over it
3) has anyone automated water changes? I used a dosing pump from a saltwater and out to a drain.. when I activate it. It works well. And I do a few gallons at a time. It is slow.. a gallon an hour give or take. But takes literally no work at all.. so I'm thinking about running a few gallons changed each day from a 25 gallon tank. Anyone have thoughts on pros/cons on the idea
Finally.. I've been running reef-pi and following everything since like 2.2 last year.. seems like things are getting more active and harder to follow. Which is good and bad.. I'm excited about the progress and advancement. Guess that was more of a comment than question. :)
1) can we develop a drop for anything that is clearly not an accurate reading? I'd much prefer that to the graph attached..
2) it would be really great to not have pH graph from 0-12.. custom range is fine. I can't really tell on the graph the level changes daily without mousing over it
3) has anyone automated water changes? I used a dosing pump from a saltwater and out to a drain.. when I activate it. It works well. And I do a few gallons at a time. It is slow.. a gallon an hour give or take. But takes literally no work at all.. so I'm thinking about running a few gallons changed each day from a 25 gallon tank. Anyone have thoughts on pros/cons on the idea
Finally.. I've been running reef-pi and following everything since like 2.2 last year.. seems like things are getting more active and harder to follow. Which is good and bad.. I'm excited about the progress and advancement. Guess that was more of a comment than question. :)
Des Westcott
Well-Known Member
[
3) has anyone automated water changes? I used a dosing pump from a saltwater and out to a drain.. when I activate it. It works well. And I do a few gallons at a time. It is slow.. a gallon an hour give or take. But takes literally no work at all.. so I'm thinking about running a few gallons changed each day from a 25 gallon tank. Anyone have thoughts on pros/cons on the idea
[/QUOTE]
I've been running Auto Water Changes since November last year. Here's my original post on that.
www.reef2reef.com
I use a system of ATO's and wait commands in a Macro enabling and disabling them with float switches as backups.
Works very well for me.
Just read that post in conjunction with the other documenting how macros must be written in reverse and have "use in Reverse" enabled to ge them to work when actuated by a timer.
3) has anyone automated water changes? I used a dosing pump from a saltwater and out to a drain.. when I activate it. It works well. And I do a few gallons at a time. It is slow.. a gallon an hour give or take. But takes literally no work at all.. so I'm thinking about running a few gallons changed each day from a 25 gallon tank. Anyone have thoughts on pros/cons on the idea
[/QUOTE]
I've been running Auto Water Changes since November last year. Here's my original post on that.
Dewd's Big Cube Reef-Pi build
RTC installed Nice is the RTC working like its supposed to
www.reef2reef.com
Works very well for me.
Just read that post in conjunction with the other documenting how macros must be written in reverse and have "use in Reverse" enabled to ge them to work when actuated by a timer.
Des Westcott
Well-Known Member
Just saw this on an ad.
www.netram.co.za
How difficult would it be to include in reef-pi? I'm guessing being analogue, it should possible to implement as pH and then calibrate?
Gravity: Analog TDS Sensor/Meter for Arduino
gravity: analog tds sensor/meter for arduino
How difficult would it be to include in reef-pi? I'm guessing being analogue, it should possible to implement as pH and then calibrate?
AbjectMaelstroM
Valuable Member
Updated config.txt ref clock stretching, hopefully should do the trick.
As for temp, since I switched to a fully siliconed probe the issue is "fixed"...at least the symptom. I tried plugging the non-siliconed probe in and it works fine until it goes in the water. I tested for stray voltage and not seeing any on my Fluke DMM. I don't think it's a controller issue or at least maybe not entirely. It either gets voltage or interference. I made sure to keep probe wire away from any AC/DC wires. Going to silicone the "unshielded" probe and see what the result is.
These are the probes:
2 PCS/LOT DS18B20 High Temp Sensor 3 meters Waterproof Thermometer Sensor -55 ~125 Celsius Degree Thermometer Probe
It is a 3 meters Thermometer Sensor/Temperature Sensor, Type : DS18B20 high temp sensor,Silicone shielded Cable, Measurement range : -55°c to 125°c (-67℉ to 257℉), Power Supply Range: 3.0V~5.5V, Suitable for Thermometer/Digital Thermostat etc. Parameters: Type : DS18B20 high temp sensor,Si
www.droking.com
Martin Lowry
Community Member
I ran it two or three times to test the macro then unplugged it as I was feeling a little nervous about the current draw on the Rpi and the potential to fry something :oops:. I guess I will likely power the EHEIM from a 3.3v regulator off the primary 12v PSU. I can then program the feeder to do an offline secondary feed as a backup if something glitches with the rpi while I'm traveling on business or on vacation, if I ever do that again..... :cool:
@Michael Lane
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At the moment, reef-pi only has a driver for ADS1119, through the ph-board implementation. I don't think the ADS1119 is readily available on breakout boards, so that's unlikely the be helpful.Just saw this on an ad.
Gravity: Analog TDS Sensor/Meter for Arduino
gravity: analog tds sensor/meter for arduino
How difficult would it be to include in reef-pi? I'm guessing being analogue, it should possible to implement as pH and then calibrate?
On the other hand, I plan to have a driver for ADS1015/ADS1115 ready next month. Those ADC chips are pretty common on breakout boards and should be able to support the TDS module you linked.
GaryE
Well-Known Member
Appears it is available on a breakout board.
https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/ads1119-adc-boosterpack-plug-in-module/85242?utm_adgroup=xGeneral&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Dynamic Search&utm_term=&utm_content=xGeneral&gclid=Cj0KCQjwn7j2BRDrARIsAHJkxmwcV-6Itbwu0hTgHlZrCEjilb_GnuZUHIQRx_DOCEnNod67O2nmH4EaAu31EALw_wcB
Simonv92
Active Member
For all of you who have problems with DS18B20 reading such as 25.13 or similar, some sensor by default are set to 12Bit resolution. Following these steps you can modify that resolution to meet your need ;)
raspberrypi.stackexchange.com
The Raspberry pi 2 guide works fine on a 3B+
How to change DS18B20 reading resolution?
I've got my 4 Maxim DS18B20 devices up and working using the w1-gpio and w1-therm modules. I would however like to change the temperature resolution by writing to the config register of the device...
The Raspberry pi 2 guide works fine on a 3B+
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