Reefi Uno Pro 2.0 or Noopsyche K7 3

SaltCreepReef

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Having done a lot of research when updating my lighting, including going through a lot of Dana Riddles experiments and documentation I replaced 12 Kessil A360x lights over my 96Lx36x26H 400g mixed reef with 3 Reefi Labs Uno 2 Pros. I have seen better growth and coloration across the board between my SPS, LPS, and Softies. They are extremely powerful (I have only 3 fixtures over my 400 ~11” off the water with the 120deg lenses and I have ~600par at my SPS in the top 1/3 and 175-200par on the sand. Running at a peak power of 180w. I did end up adding a couple Orphek bars along the front and back edge of the tank to provide more fill light and reduce shadowing. I have 4 Orphek Icon’s over my 180g SPS tank and if they ever die I would replace them with Reefi Lab lights.

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Luckyduck

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I'm not sure what silicone glass is, but:
- LEDs are encapsulated in silicone, and often have silicone formed lenses. Pretty sure your emitters do too.
- Peak operating temperatures of the LED junction should be <100C anyway. Absolute maximum Tj is usually around 110-120C. This is at the die, and moves out through the thermal pad or other metal conductors, - the lens material in front of the LED should never be reaching these temperatures unless cooling is insufficient.


Also improves efficiency to not run near maximum LED output, as well as longevity. More is... often better (though it costs more)



If anything in the fixture is anywhere near 500C you... are actually on fire.



While glass is a lower loss material, its not going be 2.3x different. This is simply a peak number at one measurement point, and a more focused lens will make that number higher.

More useful would be total radiated energy over a defined area, but no one measures that.



Yes, because aluminum is cheaper if you're not clustering tons of over-driven LEDs in one small area. The withstand temperature is also meaningless (if the board is at 200C, then the LEDs are above 200C, which with an absolute maximum of 120C means they're broken), thermal conductivity matters, and it only matters that its sufficient for the power density on the board. A spread array would be better off using aluminum.



I never include any red LEDs in fixtures. At most, a white or PC Amber or Mint. Reds are a waste of space.

Scleractinia is... all hard corals. I realize Australia is a funny place with kangaroos and where everything is upside down, but I'm pretty sure the corals from the region are similar in the sunlight they receive.

I think its worth noting competitors exist and highlight why your product is better, but most of these reasons are nonsensical technobabble.

While I haven't had a ReeFi, I've bought a Noopsyche to experiment with. The real difference is a spread LED array vs a Kessil-Lite focused single lens model. Pros and cons to each, spread vs shimmer.

Also, please stop including Red and Green LEDs if you use whites - you're doubling up useless spectrum. Try something like a Cyan to fill a gap in white or a PC Amber/Mint/Mango (using Lumileds naming) for color correction.
Absolutely love that you rebutted that information. Their post actually made me second guess swapping my lighting. I have two Noopsyches over my display and one ReeFi over my frag. My plan was to buy a second ReeFi and swap them. Thank you for explaining the fact that better or stronger isn't always necessary. What they said about Red and Green light didn't make sense to me as I have some gorgeous red color from a Bowerbanki with a ReeFi but still made me weary. I'm not unhappy with my Noopsyches by any means I just love what the ReeFi has done for coloration in my frag tank. I just recently upgraded my display from a 35 to a 110. I am most definitely going to get a second ReeFi and swap tank lighting. I also suppliment both tanks with Quanta Reef Meso Blue strips. I think both lights have their place. Noops are definitely well priced and out compete anything in that price range. I have ran them for 3+ years and loved them. Especially for a beginner on a budget Noops are the light to go with. The ReeFi however again bang for buck... It's more BOOM for buck! Nothing beats it in that price range. Par, coverage, quality and the lights just look awesome! Thanks again for the non-bias factual information.
 
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noopsyche

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I'm not sure what silicone glass is
Also, please stop including Red and Green LEDs if you use whites - you're doubling up useless spectrum. Try something like a Cyan to fill a gap in white or a PC Amber/Mint/Mango (using Lumileds naming) for color correction.
Silicone glass is inexpensive. refer to here. I believe there may be some misunderstandings due to language differences when read. So mainly read the following:
" Silicone: high temperature resistance up to 300 degrees, light transmittance about 94%, often used for direct packaging on LED chips, and can also be used for UV lenses, indoor sports lighting and industrial and mining lighting. Disadvantages: soft texture, low hardness, large expansion coefficient, less stress-resistant. In addition, it is electrostatically charged and easily stained with dust.
Glass: high light transmittance (97% transmittance at 3mm thickness), high temperature resistance of about 600°C, and glass lenses have a long service life. They can generally be used in outdoor environments for more than 10 years without discoloration and do not affect the light transmittance. Generally They are widely used in optical precision instruments. With the current trend of the LED industry beginning to pursue light quality, glass lenses have broad prospects. Disadvantages: large size and heavy weight, single shape, fragile, difficult to achieve mass production, low production efficiency, high cost, etc. Although very few manufacturers in China have begun to develop glass molding processes and use mold casting to produce glass lenses, which can produce lenses of various shapes and special surfaces, the current price of such production equipment is high and it is difficult to popularize it in the short term.
Based on the above characteristics, we can also see that the primary lens is generally made of silicone material, but for the secondary lens, optical grade PMMA or PC is generally used; in special cases (such as high-temperature-resistant UV lamps are required) glass can be selected. "

Silicone glass with large expansion coefficient, easily oxidize and turn yellow during long-term high-power operation. The high borosilicate glass we use won't.
Glasses containing 15–25% B2O3, is known as high-borate borosilicate glass. High-borate borosilicate glass is also known as leachable alkali-borosilicate glass with an optimum composition of 62.7 wt% SiO2, 26.9 wt% of B2O3, 6.6 wt% Na2O, and 3.5 wt% of Al2O3 (Elmer, 1992).
Red penetrates water to a depth of 2 to 3 meters,some rare SPS prefers shallow water areas. Some reefers don't like all blue, green are for satisfy people's preferences for more colors mixed. Full-spectrum light-powered corals look more colorful and ornamental. Radion XR30 also comes in green and red led. Full spectrum lights helps making the best mixed reef tank.
That’s like saying “should I get a Shelby gt500 or a base model ford focus?”

One of those choices is top shelf made with really nice components and attention to detail, horsepower for days and tons of tweak ability, the other is inexpensive, practical, and a point a to b kind of product.

Obviously the reef fi is everything you’d need and then some, but do you need/want that much light? I would say yes. But some people really truly can get by fine with “good enough”
If more LED diodes equals more cost, it make more sense that 2 Noopsyches VS 1 Reefi. Reefi has its unique LED diode combination, and Noopsyche also has its own LED diode combination. Other costs are similar to Noopsyche, and the retail price is nearly twice as expensive as Noopscyhe. Each brand's have their own advantages and disadvantages, but it is not Shelby gt500 VS base model ford focus, at least in terms of manufacturing costs, Reefi is lower than Noopsyche
 
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bishoptf

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Having done a lot of research when updating my lighting, including going through a lot of Dana Riddles experiments and documentation I replaced 12 Kessil A360x lights over my 96Lx36x26H 400g mixed reef with 3 Reefi Labs Uno 2 Pros. I have seen better growth and coloration across the board between my SPS, LPS, and Softies. They are extremely powerful (I have only 3 fixtures over my 400 ~11” off the water with the 120deg lenses and I have ~600par at my SPS in the top 1/3 and 175-200par on the sand. Running at a peak power of 180w. I did end up adding a couple Orphek bars along the front and back edge of the tank to provide more fill light and reduce shadowing. I have 4 Orphek Icon’s over my 180g SPS tank and if they ever die I would replace them with Reefi Lab lights.

IMG_5642.jpeg
IMG_5643.jpeg
Next time I would try the Quanta pro's vs the Orpheks, I think you would like them even better.
 

kingranch2003

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Saltlifehokie, my post was is response to "spare time". I apologize.

I completely understand your dilemma.

I've been out of the hobby for 10 years, just got back in. I went with the ai blade knowing I was going to upgrade in the near future.

From all the research I have done reefi is where it's at.

I don't think this hobby is a buy once cry once.
How do you feel about the blade? That was definitely an option for me.
 

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