Hello fellow Reefers, my name's Olivier and I've been in the hobby on and off for about 10 years now. Let's call it a working 5.
Automation has always been a fascination of mine, regarding our hobby at least. I like to have things done by themselves since I:
1) have the memory of a bland bagel
2) can't be bothered to do it
Today I wanted to show you how I have achieved ''peak functional lazyness" regarding my ro/di system: I have automated the flushing process of my membranes (I run two in parallel). This has helped me prolong the life of my membranes, saving me money. I will go into the technical programming with some images in the coming section; it's not too hard to do, however here is what you will need to implement my method:
1) Have your ro/di near your apex module. I know it isn't possible for everyone and that may be a deal-breaker right there, however I think there are some ways to go around this with 50 ft cables and some determination.
2) solenoids (at least 1, which will do the flushing. I use an extra one for my ro/di ATO container to top off automatically as well. I will go into details further down)
3) auto shut off kit, you'll need it and you should already have one if your ro/di is permanently plumbed
3) **booster pump ** This isn't required to make your automatic flushing program, however consider getting one if your water line pressure is below 50 psi, this helps to boost your GPD on the system but also makes your cartridges last longer.
With that out of the way, let's go into the actual goal of this thread :
Flushing your membrane automatically
For those who don't know what "flushing your membrane" means, it's the idea that particles will cluter your membranes over time. Flushing the membrane means that we are removing these particles that break our filtration units over time. The ''accoutrement" you'll need to make a basic flush kit can be found in this video.
My goal is to flush the membrane 10 minutes per hour, 5 minutes before using it and 5 minutes after using it. You can use ANY numbers you please, some people argue to flush for 10, 20, I've even heard 30 but at some point, just pick one.
The Booster pump, heart of the program:
This is the '' switch '' of the program. It will guide the rest of the automation. This is a very customisable programming and I personally have it plugged on my apex and I use the breakout box with a lightswitch to toggle it on for long periods of time (over 2 hours) or with the feed option. It also is turned on by a water sensor in my ato container, which isn't too complicated to do either. Here is what my booster pump program looks like:
Set OFF
If switch1 CLOSED Then ON
If switch1 OPEN Then OFF
If Output ATOSol = ON Then ON
If Output ATOSol = OFF Then OFF
If FeedB 000 Then ON
Fallback OFF
The important part is that you understand that in your programming, when you turn on the booster pump, the flushing will be done automatically.
Here is the programming for the FLUSHING SOLENOID
Replace the ro/di shut off valve on your flushing kit with the Solenoid.
**make sure you shut off the water line before doing so**
Plug the solenoid into your apex controller, on your interface find the new module and this is the following programming:
**note this programming includes a booster pump configuration, if you aren't using one you'll have to be creative and combine the programs.
If Output Booster = ON Then ON
If Output Booster = OFF Then OFF
OSC 005:00/050:00/005:00 Then OFF
Fallback OFF
This flushes the membrane(s) for 5 minutes, then runs ''normally'' for 50 minutes to then finish with 5 minutes of flushing.
I have been running this program for now over 2 months and I've had issues at first with the coding but now I've figured it out I believe.
Regarding the ato container. I have it filling up by itself when it is low. I have an optical sensor in the bucket, when it reads '' open'' the water level is low, and therefore another solenoid (ATOsol) triggers ON, which turns on the booster pump. It's a bit more advanced but can be done. I have a 30 gallon ro/di ato reservoir and it takes about an hour to fill. I use a float switch on the bucket in order to avoid overfilling the container. Here is the program for the solenoid on my ro/di ATO container:
Fallback OFF
If FMM3 OPEN Then ON
If FMM3 CLOSED Then OFF
Min Time 055:00 Then ON
This ensures that the solenoid stays in the '' on state '' for 55 minutes even if the optical sensor reads '' closed ''.
I hope this can spark some ideas on your end! I'd be happy to show more pictures if need be.
Reef on!
Automation has always been a fascination of mine, regarding our hobby at least. I like to have things done by themselves since I:
1) have the memory of a bland bagel
2) can't be bothered to do it
Today I wanted to show you how I have achieved ''peak functional lazyness" regarding my ro/di system: I have automated the flushing process of my membranes (I run two in parallel). This has helped me prolong the life of my membranes, saving me money. I will go into the technical programming with some images in the coming section; it's not too hard to do, however here is what you will need to implement my method:
1) Have your ro/di near your apex module. I know it isn't possible for everyone and that may be a deal-breaker right there, however I think there are some ways to go around this with 50 ft cables and some determination.
2) solenoids (at least 1, which will do the flushing. I use an extra one for my ro/di ATO container to top off automatically as well. I will go into details further down)
3) auto shut off kit, you'll need it and you should already have one if your ro/di is permanently plumbed
3) **booster pump ** This isn't required to make your automatic flushing program, however consider getting one if your water line pressure is below 50 psi, this helps to boost your GPD on the system but also makes your cartridges last longer.
With that out of the way, let's go into the actual goal of this thread :
Flushing your membrane automatically
For those who don't know what "flushing your membrane" means, it's the idea that particles will cluter your membranes over time. Flushing the membrane means that we are removing these particles that break our filtration units over time. The ''accoutrement" you'll need to make a basic flush kit can be found in this video.
My goal is to flush the membrane 10 minutes per hour, 5 minutes before using it and 5 minutes after using it. You can use ANY numbers you please, some people argue to flush for 10, 20, I've even heard 30 but at some point, just pick one.
The Booster pump, heart of the program:
This is the '' switch '' of the program. It will guide the rest of the automation. This is a very customisable programming and I personally have it plugged on my apex and I use the breakout box with a lightswitch to toggle it on for long periods of time (over 2 hours) or with the feed option. It also is turned on by a water sensor in my ato container, which isn't too complicated to do either. Here is what my booster pump program looks like:
Set OFF
If switch1 CLOSED Then ON
If switch1 OPEN Then OFF
If Output ATOSol = ON Then ON
If Output ATOSol = OFF Then OFF
If FeedB 000 Then ON
Fallback OFF
The important part is that you understand that in your programming, when you turn on the booster pump, the flushing will be done automatically.
Here is the programming for the FLUSHING SOLENOID
Replace the ro/di shut off valve on your flushing kit with the Solenoid.
**make sure you shut off the water line before doing so**
Plug the solenoid into your apex controller, on your interface find the new module and this is the following programming:
**note this programming includes a booster pump configuration, if you aren't using one you'll have to be creative and combine the programs.
If Output Booster = ON Then ON
If Output Booster = OFF Then OFF
OSC 005:00/050:00/005:00 Then OFF
Fallback OFF
This flushes the membrane(s) for 5 minutes, then runs ''normally'' for 50 minutes to then finish with 5 minutes of flushing.
I have been running this program for now over 2 months and I've had issues at first with the coding but now I've figured it out I believe.
Regarding the ato container. I have it filling up by itself when it is low. I have an optical sensor in the bucket, when it reads '' open'' the water level is low, and therefore another solenoid (ATOsol) triggers ON, which turns on the booster pump. It's a bit more advanced but can be done. I have a 30 gallon ro/di ato reservoir and it takes about an hour to fill. I use a float switch on the bucket in order to avoid overfilling the container. Here is the program for the solenoid on my ro/di ATO container:
Fallback OFF
If FMM3 OPEN Then ON
If FMM3 CLOSED Then OFF
Min Time 055:00 Then ON
This ensures that the solenoid stays in the '' on state '' for 55 minutes even if the optical sensor reads '' closed ''.
I hope this can spark some ideas on your end! I'd be happy to show more pictures if need be.
Reef on!
