RO/DI Float Valve

trevorhiller

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Is it possible to install float valve on the RO/DI system on the waste water line?

I’m currently using the BRS 4 stage value RO/DI system. It does have the shut off valve included from the factory and pre installed.

The reason I ask is because I save the waste water in a bucket. The waste is produced much faster than the RO product water. So if it would shut off when the waste water bucket is full, there’s no way the product water would overflow.

I guess I didn’t think this through when I ordered. Using two 5 gallon buckets, the waste water will overflow long before the 5 gallon RO bucket is full enough to shut off the system.

I realize I would need to empty the product water bucket when dumping the waste water bucket, otherwise it would eventually overflow, but my main concern is just preventing spills in the event I forget to set my 35 minute timer.
 

MnFish1

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Is it possible to install float valve on the RO/DI system on the waste water line?

I’m currently using the BRS 4 stage value RO/DI system. It does have the shut off valve included from the factory and pre installed.

The reason I ask is because I save the waste water in a bucket. The waste is produced much faster than the RO product water. So if it would shut off when the waste water bucket is full, there’s no way the product water would overflow.

I guess I didn’t think this through when I ordered. Using two 5 gallon buckets, the waste water will overflow long before the 5 gallon RO bucket is full enough to shut off the system.

I realize I would need to empty the product water bucket when dumping the waste water bucket, otherwise it would eventually overflow, but my main concern is just preventing spills in the event I forget to set my 35 minute timer.
Depending on your water pressure - this could damage your membrane. The best way to do it is to put the shutoff on your RODI container - and then - either run the waste down the sink - OR - put a bucket in the sink so that you can collect at least some of the water - OR - Put 2 systems in-line - such that the waste from the first goes into the intake of the second. It will results in a little higher TDS - in the collection but it will save water. In the long run - I found that not making more water than I need is the best solution - as compared to saving the wastewater.
 

Snoopy 67

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The waste runs around 4x the product water.
IF you really want to save the water you will need a large container& limit your production.
This will eventually become a problem.
 
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trevorhiller

trevorhiller

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Correct. I dump a 5 gallon bucket for every gallon to gallon and half. It’s not so much I want to save the water, it’s more that I haven’t plumbed it into a drain line. I have the RO system connected to the Manibloc in my basement and the drain line isn’t readily accessible near the Manibloc so I’m filling 5 gallon buckets with waste water and dumping them at the moment.

was just looking for a way to have a safety measure with my current system, but I guess I’m going to the hardware store to get some plumbing supplies.
 

MnFish1

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Correct. I dump a 5 gallon bucket for every gallon to gallon and half. It’s not so much I want to save the water, it’s more that I haven’t plumbed it into a drain line. I have the RO system connected to the Manibloc in my basement and the drain line isn’t readily accessible near the Manibloc so I’m filling 5 gallon buckets with waste water and dumping them at the moment.

was just looking for a way to have a safety measure with my current system, but I guess I’m going to the hardware store to get some plumbing supplies.
Your drain tube can be as long as you need it to be - is your RODI - not close to a sink?
 

MnFish1

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PS - BTW - what I have is a brute trash can - with a float switch (easy to drill a hole into the side - then there are gaskets to keep it waterproof. Then when the container (you can use whatever size you want) - is full the RODO automatically shuts off. Here are the parts:

 
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trevorhiller

trevorhiller

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Your drain tube can be as long as you need it to be - is your RODI - not close to a sink?
No unfortunately I don’t have a sink in my basement. I hooked the RO/DI up to the manabloc. I have a setup similar to this photo. My basement is not finished, but insulated, so I don’t have quick access to a drainage pipe.

connecting the drain line to the plumbing is going to require me to tap into the main vertical drainage pipe in my house which is like 5-6” in diameter.
 

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Gtinnel

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Im not positive it would work, but if you installed a float valve on your waste bucket I think you could just hook the waste side up to the auto shutoff valve and then when the float stops flow the pressure will build up and shut off supply to the membrane. It should be the same setup as you would traditionally do with a float and auto shutoff valve just on the waste side.
Even if that would work (I think it would but again not 100% sure) you're still better off to find some way to plumb the waste into a drain somewhere.
 

MnFish1

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No unfortunately I don’t have a sink in my basement. I hooked the RO/DI up to the manabloc. I have a setup similar to this photo. My basement is not finished, but insulated, so I don’t have quick access to a drainage pipe.

connecting the drain line to the plumbing is going to require me to tap into the main vertical drainage pipe in my house which is like 5-6” in diameter.
Sorry don't know that name 'manabloc'. I would run a long tube ( hidden as possible) - to a drain if possible?
 

MnFish1

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Im not positive it would work, but if you installed a float valve on your waste bucket I think you could just hook the waste side up to the auto shutoff valve and then when the float stops flow the pressure will build up and shut off supply to the membrane. It should be the same setup as you would traditionally do with a float and auto shutoff valve just on the waste side.
Even if that would work (I think it would but again not 100% sure) you're still better off to find some way to plumb the waste into a drain somewhere.
I do not think a shut off valve on youre wasteline is a good idea - perhaps someone has tried it. the best way - IMHO - is to put the shutoff on your 'filling' line
 

Gtinnel

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I do not think a shut off valve on youre wasteline is a good idea - perhaps someone has tried it. the best way - IMHO - is to put the shutoff on your 'filling' line
I agree completely I was just saying that I think it is theoretically possible if someone was forced to do it that way.
 

MnFish1

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I agree completely I was just saying that I think it is theoretically possible if someone was forced to do it that way.
Yeah - and I agree with you - I tried it once - it shortened the life of the filter by about 70 percent
 

Gtinnel

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Yeah - and I agree with you - I tried it once - it shortened the life of the filter by about 70 percent
You tried to connect a float and a auto shut off valve to the concentrate? It would cause too much pressure on the concentrate side but only breifly before the auto shut off valve stopped flow into the membrane (honestly I'm not sure how much more pressure it would be than the restrictor puts on it anyway). Once the flow into the membrane is stopped there is no more flow into the system so I don't think it would effect any pre filters, and I wouldn't have thought it would make any significant difference to the membrane, unless it effects the membrane because it has to drops its pressure through the permeate side.
What part of the filter did it shorten the life of?

Also, if it even would work it's likely not a reasonable solution.
 

MnFish1

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You tried to connect a float and a auto shut off valve to the concentrate? It would cause too much pressure on the concentrate side but only breifly before the auto shut off valve stopped flow into the membrane (honestly I'm not sure how much more pressure it would be than the restrictor puts on it anyway). Once the flow into the membrane is stopped there is no more flow into the system so I don't think it would effect any pre filters, and I wouldn't have thought it would make any significant difference to the membrane, unless it effects the membrane because it has to drops its pressure through the permeate side.
What part of the filter did it shorten the life of?

Also, if it even would work it's likely not a reasonable solution.
Yes this was years ago - trying to stop the 'outflow' of an RODI unit - IMHO - not recommended.
 
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trevorhiller

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Thanks everyone. I just wasn’t exactly sure how the valve worked. In my head, I thought it would work the same as turning off the garden valve I have it connected to and shutting off the water supply to the whole unit once the float valve had back pressure applied to it if it was connected appropriately. But if it’s going to damage the filter or could damage the filter, I’ll just have to work on plumbing it in.
 

Snoopy 67

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It will work correctly the way it is.
I like to shut the valve off & relieve the pressure in the unit to 10-20 pounds.
Just in case Murphy shows up. (something goes wrong & water sprays all over)
 
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