RO System Help

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Pntbll687

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I have a RO system using 2 100gpd membranes in series, attached to a RO booster buddie from AQuatic life. Everything was fine for the last three years. I replaced the membranes in April, and everything ran just fine for a month or so. Now production has slowed to about 6 gallons in over 12 hours. The pressure gauge also bounces between 100 and 120. All pre filters were replaced in June as I thought that was the issue, but still the same super slow production.

Any ideas where I should look next?
 
The original booster Buddie was not designed for more than like 75gpd (maybe 100gpd) and they explicitly state to not use on dual membrane setups.

I took a chance like you and have been using it on dual membrane but I know it will likely crap out at some point. Sounds like that may have happened here. They have a new version meant for higher GPD dual membrane setups
 
The original booster Buddie was not designed for more than like 75gpd (maybe 100gpd) and they explicitly state to not use on dual membrane setups.

I took a chance like you and have been using it on dual membrane but I know it will likely crap out at some point. Sounds like that may have happened here. They have a new version meant for higher GPD dual membrane setups
Thanks for the info.

I bought it used so I was unaware of the issue of using two membranes.

Looks like I got my money’s worth out of it.

Would you recommend the newer unit or a different booster pump while running dual 100g membranes?
 
Thanks for the info.

I bought it used so I was unaware of the issue of using two membranes.

Looks like I got my money’s worth out of it.

Would you recommend the newer unit or a different booster pump while running dual 100g membranes?

I really like the Aquatic Life RO Buddie and will use the new version when mine gives out. Super clean and easy to install. Nice thing is the new one is just plug and play to your current setup

Might be worth reaching out to them and see if they sell just the new internals?
 
I really like the Aquatic Life RO Buddie and will use the new version when mine gives out. Super clean and easy to install. Nice thing is the new one is just plug and play to your current setup

Might be worth reaching out to them and see if they sell just the new internals?
I emailed them and got an answer in about a minute.

New internals on the newer units. The shell is the same, but mounting points are different.

Just ordered the 200gpd option. It was only $157, and to have it plug and play in the setup is worth the money over piecing something else together that might be "cheaper"
 
100-120psi seems high to be running a rodi. Do you alway run it at that. If not you have a block easiest way to debug to put a quick shut off on the intake and then start popping of the lines one at a time after each component. IE right after filters, then after first membrane then after 2nd etc…… walking your way to the final DI champer to see where your flow decreases. Significantly. Helps to have some. Spare tubing that you can plug un and run to a bucket or sink so that’s it’s not spraying everywhere.
 
100-120psi seems high to be running a rodi. Do you alway run it at that. If not you have a block easiest way to debug to put a quick shut off on the intake and then start popping of the lines one at a time after each component. IE right after filters, then after first membrane then after 2nd etc…… walking your way to the final DI champer to see where your flow decreases. Significantly. Helps to have some. Spare tubing that you can plug un and run to a bucket or sink so that’s it’s not spraying everywhere.
I replaced the filters, and the tubing to and from the RO booster pump I have. I believe rtparty is right that it is the unit itself, there could be a blockage in the unit, but I'm not going to go that far. I was using it in a way not intended by the manufacturer.
 
I replaced the filters, and the tubing to and from the RO booster pump I have. I believe rtparty is right that it is the unit itself, there could be a blockage in the unit, but I'm not going to go that far. I was using it in a way not intended by the manufacturer.
So just to clarify I’m not talking about the tubing just from the booster to the unit. I’m referring to disconnecting the tubing after each stage of the unit itself and then opening the the main valve and checking the flow and pressure. If it looks steady then reconnect and disconnect after the next stage and so forth….:::
 
Agreed with @Tangdora!

120PSI is a bit too high for safety reasons; several RODI system components have a maximum operating pressure of 110PSI, if memory serves correct!

Look into that, just so you don’t have a housing, fitting, or seal rupture; subsequently flooding the area…
 
I replaced the filters, and the tubing to and from the RO booster pump I have. I believe rtparty is right that it is the unit itself, there could be a blockage in the unit, but I'm not going to go that far. I was using it in a way not intended by the manufacturer.
So just to clarify I’m not talking about the tubing just from the booster to the unit. I’m referring to disconnecting the tubing after each stage of the unit itself and then opening the the main valve and checking the flow and pressure. If it looks steady then reconnect and disconnect after the next stage and so forth….:::
Yeah, I checked flow through everything up to where it goes from the pre filters to the unit and everything was good, flow was consistent in each section. The problem I’m assuming is where it goes into the unit, and then to the first membrane.

I have very hard water so it’s a high probability of a clog or unit failure
 
Yeah, I checked flow through everything up to where it goes from the pre filters to the unit and everything was good, flow was consistent in each section. The problem I’m assuming is where it goes into the unit, and then to the first membrane.

I have very hard water so it’s a high probability of a clog or unit failure
What size is the line before your booster are yout running standard 1/4 . If you are trying to push high psi. You may need to bump it up one notch to 3/8. Also if you’re running a saddle to tap into a water line they create very small pine holds that hard water ca started to block. Had a slightly different issues on my well system. Where my booster would not boost pressure at all. Thought it was bad but turned out to be the pre booster line. Once I increased that line to 3/8 and drilled the saddle hole bigger. All issues went away. Be advice drilling a saddle hole bigger will prevent the built in shut off from working anymore. You will need an inline shutoff valve to turn off the pressure. Will also need to shut off main water line to remove the to do so.
 
What size is the line before your booster are yout running standard 1/4 . If you are trying to push high psi. You may need to bump it up one notch to 3/8.
You can get some incredibly high flow (relatively speaking) rates through 1/4” semi-rigid tubing, actually!

Keep in mind; 1gpm = 1,440gpd!

A restrictive orifice like the aforementioned saddle valve is the likely culprit here!
 
You can get some incredibly high flow (relatively speaking) rates through 1/4” semi-rigid tubing, actually!

Keep in mind; 1gpm = 1,440gpd!

A restrictive orifice like the aforementioned saddle valve is the likely culprit here!
Definitely can get good flow from a 1/4 line. I just tend to find better performance of following the general rule of thumb that with pumps in general the suction line should be at least one size bigger. The aquatec 8800 that most people tend to run as their booster of choice come with 3/8 line quick connect and 1/4 reducer fitting makes it ease to run both sizes with out any real modification.
 
@rtparty

Good call on it being there unit itself.

Plugged in the new unit, water production WAY better. Still zero tds. Getting a couple gallons an hour.

New unit has built in auto flush. Old units flushed in the beginning, new units flush for a minute every hour.
 

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