New Video under 12k, need to figure out how to filter out the white saturation that occurs on top of the corals.
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ORA Pink Birdsnest, The Last Dragon, Palleta Pink tip and Rainbow loom. Grows like weeds. Already moved the Birdsnest and Last Dragon to the bottom. Trying to figure where to place them, going to chop them up a bit, before placing them on their new spotNice!
What are the two largest Acro colonies?
Thank You, just placed them in before I filled the sump up. They done get swept, once they're settled, planning to replace half, this coming May.Stunning tank Rob... so glad to see how well everything is growing under the Orpheks, a quick question, how do you use your miracle mud? In containers and swap them out occasionally or is it just loose in the sump? If so how do you stop it getting swept away...
Stability long term and coral adaptability. As long as nutrients are manageable I let it ride. I use carbon or GFO maybe once or twice a year. Corals adapt well and creates biodiversity and becomes resilient. I dont want to say my water is turbid, maybe borderline. My nutrients level is higher then most people like, but it works for me. Miracle Mud provides minerals and trace elements, which produces great growth with my macro algae, increase pod population and micro fauna, which my corals love. A simple set up, large fuge, kick butt skimmer, awesome lights and a ton of flow. Also saves me money, I dont test much, dkh once every 2 weeks or so, I dont feed my coral no over the counter coral foods, including amino acids, but the poop my fishes provide and food I give them, LRS, pellets and what ever else stays in the water column. I dont use carbon or gfo, is a bonus as well. Been reefing this way and using this method since 1996.
There is nothing really to the 4 month cycle, but to wait it out. I had a bad white bacteria outbreak, that turned into the dreaded white slime which was all over the rocks, it grew as long as 6" but once it turned brown and started dissipating, I knew my cycle was over. If the cycle was properly executed and the Ionic Balance is on point, algae should not be an issue, at this point my fuge is full of macro algae that keeps any nuisance algae at bay. My flow of 6 mp60's does a number on any detritus settling in the DT, detritus that does accumulate which it does, in the right side of the DT under a massive rock can easily be siphoned out, but havent done so. The rest gets carried into the sump, which will continue to be broken down or manually removed by cleaning the sump, which I usually do once a year, but havent done so. Planning to do so in May, when I replace 1/2 of the miracle mud. When your Ionic Balance is on point, and ecosystem is running like a well tuned machine, gfo and carbon is not needed. Whether my nutrients are higher then normal and kind of turbid, my corals adapt and become more resilient, its all about coral adaptability and stability long term. If I do use carbon or GFO on a consistent basis, My tank will become dependent on using it at all times, to keep my tank stable at whatever number Im chasing, thats just more money out of my pocket. My ecosystem is at a point which my fuge keeps my nutrients at bay, and stability long term and my corals adapt. Stability is key, whether your tank has high nutrients, or low nutrients, stability long term is key.Thank you rob, im following your method.. can you tell me more about your 4 month cycle how you did it and why? Also wanted ask how do you keep algea and things like that at bay? Since you dont use filter socks how do you manage detritus? Plus whats the reason you run carbon or gfo once a year or so??? At what point do you think it needs it and how long do you run it for?
There is nothing really to the 4 month cycle, but to wait it out. I had a bad white bacteria outbreak, that turned into the dreaded white slime which was all over the rocks, it grew as long as 6" but once it turned brown and started dissipating, I knew my cycle was over. If the cycle was properly executed and the Ionic Balance is on point, algae should not be an issue, at this point my fuge is full of macro algae that keeps any nuisance algae at bay. My flow of 6 mp60's does a number on any detritus settling in the DT, detritus that does accumulate which it does, in the right side of the DT under a massive rock can easily be siphoned out, but havent done so. The rest gets carried into the sump, which will continue to be broken down or manually removed by cleaning the sump, which I usually do once a year, but havent done so. Planning to do so in May, when I replace 1/2 of the miracle mud. When your Ionic Balance is on point, and ecosystem is running like a well tuned machine, gfo and carbon is not needed. Whether my nutrients are higher then normal and kind of turbid, my corals adapt and become more resilient, its all about coral adaptability and stability long term. If I do use carbon or GFO on a consistent basis, My tank will become dependent on using it at all times, to keep my tank stable at whatever number Im chasing, thats just more money out of my pocket. My ecosystem is at a point which my fuge keeps my nutrients at bay, and stability long term and my corals adapt. Stability is key, whether your tank has high nutrients, or low nutrients, stability long term is key.
Not sure if this has already been asked earlier in your thread but what are you parameters?
I placed them in initially where I wanted them, and I raised the percentages on my Orpheks as my sps grew. But I do have frags rings through out the tank, and place new frags on them. And if they dont like the spot I move them to a new location. Heres a pic of the frag rings.700?! When you place new frags do you light acclimate at all or just go for it?
Sorry bro, for the late reply. If they start looking dull with no polyp extension. I move it.sowhen you place a coral in a spot what kinds of things do you look out for to tell if a coral is happy or not?