RobW's 280 Gallon Build
- Build Thread
- Thread starter RobW
- Start date
- Tagged users None
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
thank you
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
Heck no! I work on it nightly after work. Lol! Albeit not as much gets done but I can still do a bit in a couple hours and keep sharing.so do we have wait 2 weeks for an Update?
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
Just finished up for the evening. I managed to get the blocking in at the tops and bottoms of the 3 door openings and the majority of the plywood wraps installed on the inside of the stand base. Tomorrow after work I will finish the last few pieces inside and then begin to build the lower portion of the plumbing chase to the left of where the tank sits.
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
Well, I just ran around every single corner of this stand. This is exactly what I was shooting for. Everything perfectly square and a perfectly flat surface for the tank to sit on. Nailed it!
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
I finished the inside portion of the stand under the tank with the plywood wraps. Then I started to build the carcass on the left side for where all the drain and returns will run up and down. This stand is getting so heavy now! I'm going to need a forklift to drive it from the garage to the inside of the house! lol.
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
Hopefully by the weekend, I can have the entire bottom portion finished. That way I can get everything puttied, sanded primed, caulked and sealed. Then I can begin all of the epoxy coating inside.
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
Did a little more tonight. Got home from work late so not too much progress but, still moving forward. The end that I am working on now is built slightly different. It will just be a 3/4" plywood carcass because it is only a chase for plumbing and what not to run top to bottom. It will get a layer of just 1/4" plywood inside and it will have the 3/4" finish layer that wraps all around the outside. Need as much room as possible. The drain valves have to be accessible. The sterilizers and the valves for them will also be housed in this section. Lots to do! Can't wait to start ordering equipment and get all the glass cut for the assembly of the tank!
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
I've been looking around at lighting for the tank... think I'm going to go T5 and LED instead of my original plan of halide. Was looking AI's 61" T5 fixture with the rails/slots for mounting some kessil A360's instead. Just curious maybe about some recommendations for how many kessils or possibly the AI Hydras I might need to get down through 36" of water. My tank is on the deeper side and wanted some adequate lighting. Plus I have more control rather than just on/off. Also been thinking about using different pumps than the eco-tech vectras. Some people were telling me that they had a few fail prematurely. Some said use the reef octopus pumps, some said Neptune COR's. Abyzz is out of the budget range for me at the moment. I want quiet, reliable and controllable. I am still absolutely using all the Bashsea filtration equipment. I am also definitely using Apex for control. Although I have heard that the Apex ATO is not very good and that I should use the Tunze Osmolator instead. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
Having the right tools really helps. The wood wasnt so perfect when I got it.
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
Using a jointer and a planer takes the curls and wraps out of the boards and gives you nice sharp, square edges and faces to your boards. Plywood gets ripped straight on the table saw. So for instance, if I buy a 2x4 and it has a slight crown (curve to the board) I run it on the jointer with the bowed side up on the wide face of the board first. I set the jointer to remove 1/32 of an inch at a time. All you do is keep making passes with the board until you make a full pass and it takes an even layer off the entire board. Usually 5-10 passes on a 2x4 if it isn't too bad. Then you turn it on its side with the new flat side against the fence of the jointer and repeat those steps. Now you end up with a board that has 2 sides that are peftly 90 degrees to each other. Then you move to the planer and run the boards through it with the edges that you made on the jointer face down. The planer makes the other sides exactly parallel to the opposite side of the board. Hence giving you an ultra flat, ultra straight board to work with. Then I go over to the big miter saw and trim one end of the board square. After that is when i start to make measurements for cuts for different pieces. The key is to do only enough of what you'll use at a time. Because if you buy and mill a bunch of lumber and it sits around too long, it will warp up in no time!
Last edited:
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
The porter cable benchtop jointer and planer weren't that expensive. Just a little over 500.00 for the two on Amazon. The Bosch 12" glide miter was 600.00 and another 70.00 for a 100 tooth ultra fine finish diablo blade. I didnt just go and buy this stuff to build the tank cabinet. I got this stuff after we purchased the home so I had proper stuff to make all my custom door jambs, cabinets, built closet stuff, etc.
Last edited:
OP
OP
RobW
Valuable Member
Ok, so the stand for the tank is all built. Now to start putty, sand and get the inside primed then get it caulked and sealed. Then start the epoxy finish. Just have to install the 3/4" plywood top and wrap the outside in 3/4". I have to go pick up another sheet tomorrow. But I can at least start to prep the inside now.
Similar threads
New Posts
-
-
Help with skimmer. And help with foam in my sump- Latest: heelanjeffrey85
-
-
