RODI going through our sink - Question

[Kristopher Conlin]

Here is my roughly made but almost working setup I added another housing cartridge from my old unit to a new BRS 4 stage. Before I add the DI on the right side just wanted to double check I don’t have to take that see through plastic upside down cup piece. That is part of the filter, right?

Doesn't look like you have to remove anything. That plastic is just part of the canister to make sure water passes through the di resin. You should notice a sediment filter material where I put the red arrow. This is designed to let water through but not the di resin beads

 

[SauceyReef]

Doesn't look like you have to remove anything. That plastic is just part of the canister to make sure water passes through the di resin. You should notice a sediment filter material where I put the red arrow. This is designed to let water through but not the di resin beads

Awesome thank you! I guess I am overthinking it. I just put it in the housing with the arrow on the cup facing upwards, and it automatically sets in place when I screw in the housing?

 

[Kristopher Conlin]

Awesome thank you! I guess I am overthinking it. I just put it in the housing with the arrow on the cup facing upwards, and it automatically sets in place when I screw in the housing?

Yep that's right!

 

[Reign1]

Question : do I have to remove this plastic piece on the new DI filter? I’m guessing no

No

 

[SauceyReef]

Thanks everyone. I think it’s about ready. I just need to attach the 4 stage to the older DI on the right side. I think I had that valve you see (sorry if that’s the wrong word) on the blue line connected to the input of the DI to get RO drinking water when I had the old unit many years ago.

Oh by the way in case you’re wondering I’m going to run two TDS meters just to trust it’s perfectly accurate.

 

[SauceyReef]

What would be the best way to connect these two lines? There are so many different valve connectors on BRS I’m not sure which one would be right.

 

[SauceyReef]

Would either of these work? I’m guessing I should choose the one without the push connect

 

[SauceyReef]

Bump

 

[Manpeckz]

I believe you are correct.

I just had to grab a few extra of the MurLok 1/4” x 1/4” 3-ways like you have on the end of your blue because I sit it on the ground and I tipped the DI unit. Turns out they are brittle!

Also, the push connect is nice. No worries there.

 

[SauceyReef]

I believe you are correct.

I just had to grab a few extra of the MurLok 1/4” x 1/4” 3-ways like you have on the end of your blue because I sit it on the ground and I tipped the DI unit. Turns out they are brittle!

Also, the push connect is nice. No worries there.

Is there really any reason for a push connect though? Will I ever be stopping the line before it makes it to the DI?

That 3 way is there because on my old unit many years ago I had a seperate RO and tank for drinking water! Well
I am pretty sure that’s what it was for it’s only been a decade lol.

 

[Manpeckz]

Is there really any reason for a push connect though? Will I ever be stopping the line before it makes it to the DI?

That 3 way is there because on my old unit many years ago I had a seperate RO and tank for drinking water! Well
I am pretty sure that’s what it was for it’s only been a decade lol.

I think you’re referring to the ball valve one!
It gives you the option to stop water in the line.

Like you said, the push connect IS what we want because that just ensures a tight connection, doesn’t stop anything from flowing though.

 

[Kristopher Conlin]

I use a John guest 3 way ball valve after the RO membrane and before the DI resin. For the first minute or two after the water is turned on the TDS coming out of the membranes will be higher then usual. I prefer to let that go down the drain so it doesn't burn through my DI resin quickly.

I also run two TDS meters. However I have one directly after the RO membrane to keep an eye on the filters performance and the tds. And another one after my di kno to make sure it's coming out at 0 TDS

 

[Kristopher Conlin]

What would be the best way to connect these two lines? There are so many different valve connectors on BRS I’m not sure which one would be right.

Looking at these pictures I noticed the filters are connected in a different sequence then my unit. It looks like your water passes through the sediment filter and first carbon block. Then goes to your RO membrane. Did your unit come with di resin in that third canister. But you swapped it for a second carbon block and added another di cartridge separately?

 

[SauceyReef]

I think you’re referring to the ball valve one!
It gives you the option to stop water in the line.

Like you said, the push connect IS what we want because that just ensures a tight connection, doesn’t stop anything from flowing though.

Ahh thank you! So the ball valve is the one with the little on and off switch, and the push connect is just the connector piece with no other bells or whistles. I appreciate the clarification. I will just be getting the push connect than.

I use a John guest 3 way ball valve after the RO membrane and before the DI resin. For the first minute or two after the water is turned on the TDS coming out of the membranes will be higher then usual. I prefer to let that go down the drain so it doesn't burn through my DI resin quickly.

I also run two TDS meters. However I have one directly after the RO membrane to keep an eye on the filters performance and the tds. And another one after my di kno to make sure it's coming out at 0 TDS

I should probably configure my TDS like that as well. That is a smart move. MInd me asking why does the new water going through the filter have a high TDS at first?

Looking at these pictures I noticed the filters are connected in a different sequence then my unit. It looks like your water passes through the sediment filter and first carbon block. Then goes to your RO membrane. Did your unit come with di resin in that third canister. But you swapped it for a second carbon block and added another di cartridge separately?

Yes! I bought a new 4 stage unit, and had an extra housing cannister from my old unit with a TDS meter on it so I thought why not just connect them and get better performance or at the very least longer time without having to change stuff. I removed the DI on the 4th stage of the new unit. I replaced that with another carbon block per BRS recommendation. I than added the DI filter from the 4th stage to the old 5th stage housing cannister I cleaned up.

So final order:
1. 5 micron sediment filter
2. 5 micron VOC carbon block
3. Universal Carbon Block Filter - 1 Micron
4. RO Membrane
5. DI color chaning resin

 

[SauceyReef]

I am also just realizing that the Carbon block and RO membrane are switched around due to the weird configuration of their 4 stage. This is the correct order below.

1. 5 micron sediment filter
2. 5 micron VOC carbon block
3. RO Membrane
4. Universal Carbon Block Filter - 1 Micron
5. DI color chaning resin

Is it okay the RO membrane is before the second universal carbon block? The RO membrane has to be in the white housing cannister on the top, right?

 

[Kristopher Conlin]

I am also just realizing that the Carbon block and RO membrane are switched around due to the weird configuration of their 4 stage. This is the correct order below.

1. 5 micron sediment filter
2. 5 micron VOC carbon block
3. RO Membrane
4. Universal Carbon Block Filter - 1 Micron
5. DI color chaning resin

Is it okay the RO membrane is before the second universal carbon block? The RO membrane has to be in the white housing cannister on the top, right?

Yes the ro membrane is in the top horizontal canister. The carbon blocks are a prefilter and are supposed to be before the RO membrane to stop chlorine chloramine and other disinfects chemicals in the water from getting to the RO membrane and burning it out quickly.

 

[SauceyReef]

Yes the ro membrane is in the top horizontal canister. The carbon blocks are a prefilter and are supposed to be before the RO membrane to stop chlorine chloramine and other disinfects chemicals in the water from getting to the RO membrane and burning it out quickly.

Hmmm I am wondering why BRS would recommend that I replace the DI with a carbon block.. It seems with the fact the RO membrane has to be on stage 3 that I have to go with two DIs in stage 4 and 5, right? I dont see any other way it could be done.

 

[Kristopher Conlin]

Hmmm I am wondering why BRS would recommend that I replace the DI with a carbon block.. It seems with the fact the RO membrane has to be on stage 3 that I have to go with two DIs in stage 4 and 5, right? I dont see any other way it could be done.

You could reconfigure the RO tubing to go through the third canister(and second carbon block) before going to the RO membrane. Then out to the di cartridge.

If BRS recommend to replace di with a carbon block I imagine that's what they had in mind. However you could chat with their tech support and make sure. I personally wouldn't run a carbon block after the RO membranes.

 

[SauceyReef]

You could reconfigure the RO tubing to go through the third canister(and second carbon block) before going to the RO membrane. Then out to the di cartridge.

If BRS recommend to replace di with a carbon block I imagine that's what they had in mind. However you could chat with their tech support and make sure. I personally wouldn't run a carbon block after the RO membranes.

Thanks! I’ve been chatting with somone who is quite helpful it’s just a bit difficult because it takes a 1-3 days for them to respond.

You could reconfigure the RO tubing to go through the third canister(and second carbon block) before going to the RO membrane. Then out to the di cartridge.

If BRS recommend to replace di with a carbon block I imagine that's what they had in mind. However you could chat with their tech support and make sure. I personally wouldn't run a carbon block after the RO membranes.

I have been! It’s just tough because they respond once every few days, so tbe conversation is moving slow. I’ll see what they say and get back here.

 

[SauceyReef]

They are telling me I should put the single housing cannister on the left side as the starter instead of the right side at the end. I can put the sediment filter in that first housing, add the 2 carbon blocks on the next stages of the 4 stage value, and call it a day! Seems like a reasonable / simple explanation I could not think of at the time.