RODI System review or share personal experience

[rmorris_14]

I'm considering purchasing an RO/DI system for just my tank water. Probably a portable system that I will hook up to a sink as needed. I only have a 32 and a 13.5 gallon tank and do weekly water changes usually no more than 15 gallons between the two. I was doing some researching and I came across another member recommend a system. Wanted to know if any other reefers have used this system and want to share their experience with it. The price seems very reasonable.

https://filterdirect.com/ar122-koolermax-6stage-aquarium-reef-reverse-osmosis-rodi-water-p-256.html

*** We do already have an RO system (aqua systems) that feeds to a 3 gallon holding tank in the basement, which then goes to our drinking water in kitchen sink or our fridge. I know in theory there is a way to hook up just a DI canister to the existing system, but where my head starts to spin is trying to figure out a way to hook it up so we only use it when needed. I don't want DI water going into our drinking water tank. I have gone back and forth a little with BRS at one point trying to figure out the best way to do this but honestly my head starts to hurt. I'm not super handy when it comes to DIY. I think I'd rather just buy a whole separate unit that I can hook up to a sink when Im ready to make RODI water for the tank. Is that dumb? lol

 

[Woodyman]

Purchasing another system is an option just as hooking up to your existing and adding a holding tank and float switch.

If you want to go the route of getting another unit that is fine. I don't have experience with that particular unit but reviewing it it's not a bad price point, but I would ditch the proprietary 5th/6th stage DI and use traditional 10 inch housings if going with that option.

I would honestly invest your money to tie into your existing system.

 

[Woodyman]

Things to keep in mind when buying a system:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ro-di-basic-guide.886770/

 

[rmorris_14]

Things to keep in mind when buying a system:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ro-di-basic-guide.886770/

Thanks for sharing that thread. I will definitely dig into that info. :D

 

[Woodyman]

In order to tie in you would need to add a 'T' fitting after your current RO membrane on the permeate line before it gets to the storage tank. Run the other end of the 'T' fitting to DI housings and from there to a storage container with a float valve.

 

[Woodyman]

In order to tie in you would need to add a 'T' fitting after your current RO membrane on the permeate line before it gets to the storage tank. Run the other end of the 'T' fitting to DI housings and from their to a storage container with a float valve.

Only a handful of parts/fittings, tubing, storage container and DI housings/resins would be all you need.

What is your current system? Is it one worth adding to?

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

check out the aquatic life RO buddy system, its one of the cheaper units on the market ,its portable, I plug and unplug it every time I need to use it, and its lasted me a 1.5 years so far without any issue. Just another option

 

[rmorris_14]

In order to tie in you would need to add a 'T' fitting after your current RO membrane on the permeate line before it gets to the storage tank. Run the other end of the 'T' fitting to DI housings and from their to a storage container with a float valve.

Thanks I think that makes sense I wish there was a step by step video with my exact setup and what that all looks like. There’s not.. I’ve searched lol. I’m a visual learner. I’ll keep at it.

 

[rmorris_14]

Only a handful of parts/fittings, tubing, storage container and DI housings/resins would be all you need.

What is your current system? Is it one worth adding to?

It’s an Aqua systems. I think it’s good. It currently gets my water to 12 TDS. Which is slightly lower than the “RODI” water I purchased from an LFS. So I won’t be buying their water again.

 

[rmorris_14]

check out the aquatic life RO buddy system, its one of the cheaper units on the market ,its portable, I plug and unplug it every time I need to use it, and its lasted me a 1.5 years so far without any issue. Just another option

Thanks I’ll check it out!

 

[KStatefan]

Thanks I think that makes sense I wish there was a step by step video with my exact setup and what that all looks like. There’s not.. I’ve searched lol. I’m a visual learner. I’ll keep at it.

There is a good diagram in @Buckeye Hydro drinking water add on instructions.

https://www.buckeyehydro.com/content/Drinking_Water_Kit.pdf

 

[Woodyman]

Here is a very quickly put together crude drawing of what I mean.

 

[rmorris_14]

Here is a very quickly put together crude drawing of what I mean.

Wow thanks for that! Now I'm getting there.... what kind of T fitting would I use to let it know to go to the DI canister when I wanted instead of the drinking water holding tank? and would there be a separate waste waterline for each?

 

[Woodyman]

Wow thanks for that! Now I'm getting there.... what kind of T fitting would I use to let it know to go to the DI canister when I wanted instead of the drinking water holding tank? and would there be a separate waste waterline for each?

You would have some options for which to fill first, etc.

The T fitting is one of these.

 

[Woodyman]

For controlling flow you could manually do it with ball valves if you wanted or leave the new tank on a float valve, but with the frequency your system turns on/off would led to some TDS creep. I would do a manual valve on the side to the new DI. You can rely on the float switch to turn off flow and then when you return and the new storage container is full just turn the ball valve so that as your RO system cycles it isn't constantly topping off and leading to TDS creep into the new DI.

Another option would be to use a weighted check valve so that one system fills at a time instead of getting a trickle to both. A manual ball valve would do the same.

 

[rmorris_14]

For controlling flow you could manually do it with ball valves if you wanted or leave the new tank on a float valve, but with the frequency your system turns on/off would led to some TDS creep. I would do a manual valve on the side to the new DI. You can rely on the float switch to turn off flow and then when you return and the new storage container is full just turn the ball valve so that as your RO system cycles it isn't constantly topping off and leading to TDS creep into the new DI.

Another option would be to use a weighted check valve so that one system fills at a time instead of getting a trickle to both. A manual ball valve would do the same.

Would this work to control the flow from one direction or the other and prevent the creep you mentioned?
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/3-way-ball-valve-with-john-guest-1-4-push-connect.html

 

[Woodyman]

Would this work to control the flow from one direction or the other and prevent the creep you mentioned?
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/3-way-ball-valve-with-john-guest-1-4-push-connect.html

It would.

I prefer single ball valves but that's personal preference.

 

[Woodyman]

It would.

I prefer single ball valves but that's personal preference.

I would rather use a 'T' fitting and a ball valve after each end of the 'T'

 

[rmorris_14]

I would rather use a 'T' fitting and a ball valve after each end of the 'T'

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-lok-ro-inline-ball-valve-push-connect.html
Like this?

 

[Sesty22]

Looks like you have it figured out. But if you end up wanting to get a separate unit, I have found the Kookermax AR122 to be very good at what it does, and very simple to use.

https://filterdirect.com/ar122-koolermax-6stage-aquarium-reef-reverse-osmosis-rodi-water-p-256.html