Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them!!

Here it is. I bought 75' of 3/4" braided flex hose of Amazon for 50 bucks, put a ball valve on the end to manage drips in the house. I just have to get the slip x spigot fitting to connect the hose to the station.
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I have 2 75gal containers one for my fresh water n one for my salt water. They are filled with my ro/di line that runs from my laundry room into the garage. Each tank has a hose that will reach each aquarium to be filled. They are mixed by the pumps that circulate the water.
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I like how you secured your fill lines with the string. Simple yet effective.
 
I have always felt that the only truly "noob" questions were those that folks are afraid to ask. :)

I am a retired sysadmin so I have had a lot of questions ask of me. Mostly starting with "Why..." but that's for another time...lol!

How this system works is, the bottom pipe allows water to be pumped from either tank depending on how I set the ball valves. Closing the ball valve on the RO/DI tank and opening the ball valve at the bottom of the salt water tank allows for circulation of the salt water with the ball valve on the vertical pipe open or if I open ball valve on the outlet port than salt water flows out that. If I leave the ball valve open on the vertical pipe I will continue to circulate the salt water as well as pump it out but the flow is cut by around 1/2.

When I close the ball valve on the left, the salt water, open the vertical ball valve, open the RO/DI ball valve and close the outlet ball valve on the outlet, I fill the salt water tank. That's the valve setting in the picture.

Closing the vertical ball valve while opening the outlet ball valve and leaving the RO/DI valve open allows for RO/DI water to flow to wherever I have the hose running to.

The ball valve on the inlet side of the pump is normally open and would be closed only when I need to replace the pump or to do some kind of pump maintenance; I can isolate the pump completely for easy removal/replacement.

I hope that explains the workings of the system. Honestly, it's a lot easier to use than it is to explain. :)

Thank you for this explanation! I was wondering the same.

A couple other questions....where do you add your salt mix and where is your pump located?
 
Thank you for this explanation! I was wondering the same.

A couple other questions....where do you add your salt mix and where is your pump located?

The top of the water storage containers have lids that screw on/off so salt is added from the top.

The pump is in between the two tanks.
 
Thank you for the reply. So this is the pump?

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Correct...

I am using the MD-20RT - 492 GPH - Iwaki Japanese from BRS. I vacillate between thinking I should have gone larger to being awfully glad I didn't. I think it's going to be a bit small for mixing salt but if it were any larger I would have a tough time not over filling my ATO tanks. If I need more water movement for salt mixing I can always add a pump into the tank.
 
Correct...

I am using the MD-20RT - 492 GPH - Iwaki Japanese from BRS. I vacillate between thinking I should have gone larger to being awfully glad I didn't. I think it's going to be a bit small for mixing salt but if it were any larger I would have a tough time not over filling my ATO tanks. If I need more water movement for salt mixing I can always add a pump into the tank.
Thank you! This is very helpful.
 
I'm designing my own water mixing station. My tank is on the second floor and the only practical place is somewhere also on the second floor, which happens to be a small closet--so there is only room for one water tank.

Everyone seems to have an RO/DI and SW reservoir that are the same size, and connected to each other. Is there a reason people never seem to use just one? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something. I know that people might need to make a whole new batch of saltwater fast, but I haven't had that need yet. And as for ATO water I can just stick a 5 gallon bucket on a shelf over the reservoir, which would operate independently from the SW reservoir.

So, do you guys have two large containers because everyone else does or for a very practical reason?

Thanks!
 
Sntmods, yeah but why do you need so much RO/DI? I just want to make sure I'm not gonna be like, "oh crap I didn't think of that, now I need to fit another giant barrel somewhere!"
 
Sntmods, yeah but why do you need so much RO/DI? I just want to make sure I'm not gonna be like, "oh crap I didn't think of that, now I need to fit another giant barrel somewhere!"

Consider it a backup or for use in an emergency. It isn't going to go bad, it is already made, and ready for use. Think of it like a spare tire in your car. You check it from time to time to make sure it is in working order and proper air pressure for the time when you get an actual flat tire and need to use it. In this case you are saving time by having it already made rather than waiting for it - much like waiting for a tow truck or for a ride.
 
Also used to refill ATO. Also RO/DI filters do best when run for long periods, not short 5gal bursts. I let my container get mostly empty and then start it up to fill completely.
Since it takes hours to fill it’s best to just always have it available in case you need it in a hurry.
 
Also used to refill ATO. Also RO/DI filters do best when run for long periods, not short 5gal bursts. I let my container get mostly empty and then start it up to fill completely.
Since it takes hours to fill it’s best to just always have it available in case you need it in a hurry.

This!

I have a 200 gallon water volume system (with auto water changer), three fish QT setups @ 22.5 gallons of water a piece, 12 gallon Coral QT, a 34 gallon red sea reefer setup and a 5 gallon pico. I keep enough water on hand for water changes, ATO and for emergencies.
 
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Set up:

  1. 6 stage RO/DI system that has a 3 split system. 1) hose goes my Neptune ATO in my sump 2) goes into my mixing container 3) free hose for like if I need to fill a bucket or something of fresh RO/DI Water
  2. Extra WAV power head to mix salt
  3. Heater
  4. Smart Level Security - AutoAqua to shut off heater when water drops to optic sensor.
  5. Neptune DOS that runs into my WC container then goes to my tank for new SW. Return goes from my tank to my laundry waste
  6. Neptune solenoid tie to a optic sensor that shut offs when water level hits it
  7. 2nd Neptune optic sensor that is a back up above 1st.

Goal: I can turn on my solenoid from my apex fusion from anywhere and have my water fill into my WC container without worrying. All I do is Add salt for new SW then turn my solenoid off, flip my DOS on and bam hassle free auto water changes.
 
This!

I have a 200 gallon water volume system (with auto water changer), three fish QT setups @ 22.5 gallons of water a piece, 12 gallon Coral QT, a 34 gallon red sea reefer setup and a 5 gallon pico. I keep enough water on hand for water changes, ATO and for emergencies.


Yeah I'm probably going to have to use the tub faucet and some dechlorinator every once in a while--I used 20gal of freshwater yesterday to change FW and brackish tanks and refill ATO. Not a problem with that though because FW and brackish don't care about TDS as much.
 
Hi everyone! I have a large 50 gallon baffel like Don showed below. I have had it for over 5 months and I really need to clean this thing :(. What are some of your methods of cleaning out these really large containers when the entry is so dang small. I will post a picture of my setup shortly but I only have one 50 gallon drum but I'm not considering two after reading this thread. For now, let me know what you think is the best way to clean this thing. This is my first official post on R2R so looking forward to the responses.
 

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