Second New DIY Two Part Recipe with Higher pH Boost

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So if I understand this correctly,
Mix 283 grams of this porduct, sodium hydrxide, in 1 gal of rodi water.
Then you can dose that as a suppliment for adding alkalinity along with keeping higher pH.
On the reef calculator its same as liquid soda ash, because it adds same amount of alk as soda expet for the fact it increases pH much more than soda ash.
Am I correct? and is this product listed above good/safe to use?
I use that exact same product from amazon and have been for almost 2 years.
 
Sodium carbonate will tend to pick up CO2 and water. Sodium bicarbonate may tend to lose CO2 when solid.
I want to make sure I’m understanding this.

Liquid sodium carbonate can turn into liquid sodium bicarbonate in the 2 part solution if enough CO2 enters
 
I want to make sure I’m understanding this.

Liquid sodium carbonate can turn into liquid sodium bicarbonate in the 2 part solution if enough CO2 enters

Yes, but it won’t go all the way. I expect the reverse happens to sodium bicarbonate solutions, and at very long times I expect some mixture stabilizes. Not sure what that mix is, but I expect the process is so slow in closed containers used for a few months or less that it is not important.
 
Thank you very much. That’s great to know for future references.
 
@Randy Holmes-Farley So with the degradation of sodium hydroxide with exposure to CO2, it sounds like it would be best to make smaller batches of hydroxide at a time and keep it in a smaller container to minimize contact with the air. This would ensure the mixture is potent longer.

So how long does it take to reduce its potency? Should I make a week's worth at a time? Two?
 
I use that exact same product from amazon and have been for almost 2 years.
I live in the middle of Alaska. There are a lot of things that sellers won't ship up here due to hazards. I finally found a supplier on Amazon who will ship for free (Crystal Clear Lab Sodium Hydroxide, 10lbsFood Grade (Lye, Caustic Soda Beads)).
 
@Randy Holmes-Farley So with the degradation of sodium hydroxide with exposure to CO2, it sounds like it would be best to make smaller batches of hydroxide at a time and keep it in a smaller container to minimize contact with the air. This would ensure the mixture is potent longer.

So how long does it take to reduce its potency? Should I make a week's worth at a time? Two?
Not needed IMO.

This is how I have my bottles for my 3 part.

image.jpg



It will last a good while without turning into sodium carbonate IME.

I think the concern is more pronounced in an open container like an ATO.
 
@Randy Holmes-Farley So with the degradation of sodium hydroxide with exposure to CO2, it sounds like it would be best to make smaller batches of hydroxide at a time and keep it in a smaller container to minimize contact with the air. This would ensure the mixture is potent longer.

So how long does it take to reduce its potency? Should I make a week's worth at a time? Two?

I do not consider degradation of a sodium hydroxide solution in a closed container to be any concern. It’s nothing to worry about.

To be clear, even open containers do not ever reduce in alk potency no matter how much CO2 enters. The worst that happens is the pH boost declines a small amount.
 
I live in the middle of Alaska. There are a lot of things that sellers won't ship up here due to hazards. I finally found a supplier on Amazon who will ship for free (Crystal Clear Lab Sodium Hydroxide, 10lbsFood Grade (Lye, Caustic Soda Beads)).
When is the last time you ordered from them ? They would not ship to me.
 
When is the last time you ordered from them ? They would not ship to me.
Last time I ordered was May 2024.

I got the bulk pack:

IMG_1612.jpeg
 
Those are the same jugs I've always used. My wife uses vinegar in the laundry, so we always have some around the house.
When is the last time you ordered from them ? They would not ship to me.
Funny you should mention that. They accepted the order and took the money. Today I got an email saying the order was cancelled and they refunded me. Trying again on eBay.
 
When is the last time you ordered from them ? They would not ship to me.
So I Googled it and here's what it said: "You typically can't get sodium hydroxide (lye) shipped to Alaska because it is classified as a hazardous material, and due to shipping regulations, most companies cannot ship it to remote locations like Alaska via air, which is often the only practical shipping option to the state, forcing them to rely on slower ground shipping that may not be available or cost-effective."

There have been other substances I can't get shipped up here, like Weldon 40.
 
I already doubled the recipe when I linked the instructions to mix them.



Follow that^
Ok, please verify I have this right. In one gallon of RO water (each):
- 500 grams calcium chloride
- 283 grams sodium hydroxide
- 3/4C Epsom salts plus 7 1/4 cups magnesium chloride hexahydrate
-183 grams Tropic Marin Balling part C
- Seachem Reef Trace dosed according instructions

*Dose equal parts calcium chloride, sodium hydroxide, and Balling part C daily
283g Sodium hydroxide/1 gal

500g Calcium Chloride/1 gal

183g Balling Part C/1 gal

I get impressive pH boosts. It supplies alk, calcium, and magnesium. It maintains other major and minor elements, too; Fluoride, potassium, boron, sulfate, among many others.
Are you also dosing the Epsom mag chloride supplement in addition?
 
Ok, please verify I have this right. In one gallon of RO water (each):
- 500 grams calcium chloride
- 283 grams sodium hydroxide
- 3/4C Epsom salts plus 7 1/4 cups magnesium chloride hexahydrate
-183 grams Tropic Marin Balling part C
- Seachem Reef Trace dosed according instructions

*Dose equal parts calcium chloride, sodium hydroxide, and Balling part C daily
Exactly right. The exact balling part c is 182g, but adding an extra gram will make zero difference.

Everything here is perfect.

Adding the extra magnesium part will eliminate the need for testing.

I used to add magnesium without testing, but now, for fun, I have a NSW standard that tests 1275ppm with salifert, and I plan to use the test, and confirm it’s accuracy with the standard.

I also want to track how much magnesium depletes in my tank without adding any magnesium except for what comes with BPC.

I only change water about once a year with NSW, so it’ll be interesting to see the results without water changes.
 
Last edited:
Exactly right. The exact balling part c is 182g, but adding an extra gram will make zero difference.

Everything here is perfect.

Adding the extra magnesium part will eliminate the need for testing.

I used to add magnesium without testing, but now, for fun, I have a NSW standard that tests 1275ppm with salifert, and I plan to use the test, and confirm it’s accuracy with the standard.

I also want to track how much magnesium depletes in my tank without adding any magnesium except for what comes with BPC.

I only change water about once a year with NSW, so it’ll be interesting to see the results without water changes.
Fat fingers today. At least the typos were for the LSBs.

I went 5 years without a water change in my 110G with Randy's higher pH 2-part and Salifert Reef Trace, but I'd like something with a higher pH (daily average of 8.3) that also balances Ca, Alk and Mg since I moved to the 275G.

Thanks for discussing this with me.
 
Ok, please verify I have this right. In one gallon of RO water (each):
- 500 grams calcium chloride
- 283 grams sodium hydroxide
- 3/4C Epsom salts plus 7 1/4 cups magnesium chloride hexahydrate
-183 grams Tropic Marin Balling part C
- Seachem Reef Trace dosed according instructions

*Dose equal parts calcium chloride, sodium hydroxide, and Balling part C daily

Are you also dosing the Epsom mag chloride supplement in addition?
I don't think you can mix the sodium hydroxide and the calcium into one solution. They are meant to be made into 2 separate gallons of solution.

NVM (EDIT) Reread post.
 
Ok, please verify I have this right. In one gallon of RO water (each):
- 500 grams calcium chloride
- 283 grams sodium hydroxide
- 3/4C Epsom salts plus 7 1/4 cups magnesium chloride hexahydrate
-183 grams Tropic Marin Balling part C
- Seachem Reef Trace dosed according instructions

*Dose equal parts calcium chloride, sodium hydroxide, and Balling part C daily

Are you also dosing the Epsom mag chloride supplement in addition?
This helps a lot. (Back to my corner)
 
Novice question here, sorry in advance. Use to use triton, then went to cal reactor and then wife said no more due to not liking to see water pumped out of tank. (External reactor)

Display 120g
Sump 240g
10% weekly water change
Refugium with about two 5G buckets of cheato
80 lbs of rock.
No skimmer
Dsr powerfilter in sump

Was doing 2 week wc at 20% and alk went from 10.5-6.7 over that time.
Started using kalk but got tired of every 3 days a new batch alk was dropping still 10.5 to 7. (Old bag of brs kalk, 3-4 years old idk if properly sealed when I close/stored it)
Went to weekly water changes and kalk went from 10.5 to 8.2.
Started kalk with vodka (maintain potency) 12-15 (2 tbsp per gallon) mls every 4 minutes. My coral love it but my no3 was already low. Sps and euphyllia all were very happy but my test showed no3 went from 2 to almost undetectable on salifert. (Been a ongoing issue before vodka)
Dosed ammonia to bring it up with 2 ounces (1 ounce every 12 hours) and no3 at 40 mls. My coral were even happier. No3 measured at 2-4 but alk also dropped from 10.5 to 9.9 in 24 hours.
Well knowing that kalk won’t keep up and enjoying seeing the sps extension. I’d rather switch over to diy to maintain elements and be more aligned.
Ordered everything discussed here:
- 500 grams calcium chloride
- 283 grams sodium hydroxide
-183 grams Tropic Marin Balling part C
Plus AF components abck for trace dosing.

I’m curious do I still need the magnesium with weekly water changes? Instant ocean reef crystals.
Should I take the macro offline? If I dose iron and manganese, was doing everything green on his spreadsheet (previous article from Randy) I’ll add 25%-50% extra yield of cheato overnight with just 3 ml iron and manganese.
Can I add the af components to these solutions as instructions say which element they are to be added to? (Wife doesn’t like all the trace element bottles) I can be the lab rat if needed here.
Can I continue carbon dosing with this method? I assume coral are consuming bacteria in the water column but idk.

Reading that macro take no3 and convert to ammonia to do their processes has me thinking the ammonia dosing will either be absorbed by the macro quick or remain due to low iron and manganese if not dosed every 2 days. If I add no3 it’s a high amount and it never makes it through the night (60-80 mls). Ammonia actually helped it remain detectable presume 1 oz a day will keep it detectable.

Added more fish already. Shoal of scopas now…idk how but they exist peacefully. Switched to a “cleaner food” (idk if true or not) LRS and hikari mysis. I’m feeding 3x a day and enough to make the eel come out and eat the LRS also. Food thaws in tank water and not strained.

This all started because vodka and kalk leading to increased consumption of nutrients. Seeing everything happy points at continue but could be wrong.
 
Vodka mixed with calcium hydroxide is not a thing. It’s ok to do if you otherwise want vodka, but it does not help the kalk. It’s vinegar that does that.

If nitrate is low, I’d recommend feeding more and stopping the vodka, or dose ammonium bicarbonate or sodium or calcium nitrate.
 

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