Novice question here, sorry in advance. Use to use triton, then went to cal reactor and then wife said no more due to not liking to see water pumped out of tank. (External reactor)
Display 120g
Sump 240g
10% weekly water change
Refugium with about two 5G buckets of cheato
80 lbs of rock.
No skimmer
Dsr powerfilter in sump
Was doing 2 week wc at 20% and alk went from 10.5-6.7 over that time.
Started using kalk but got tired of every 3 days a new batch alk was dropping still 10.5 to 7. (Old bag of
brs kalk, 3-4 years old idk if properly sealed when I close/stored it)
Went to weekly water changes and kalk went from 10.5 to 8.2.
Started kalk with vodka (maintain potency) 12-15 (2 tbsp per gallon) mls every 4 minutes. My coral love it but my no3 was already low. Sps and euphyllia all were very happy but my test showed no3 went from 2 to almost undetectable on salifert. (Been a ongoing issue before vodka)
Dosed ammonia to bring it up with 2 ounces (1 ounce every 12 hours) and no3 at 40 mls. My coral were even happier. No3 measured at 2-4 but alk also dropped from 10.5 to 9.9 in 24 hours.
Well knowing that kalk won’t keep up and enjoying seeing the sps extension. I’d rather switch over to diy to maintain elements and be more aligned.
Ordered everything discussed here:
- 500 grams calcium chloride
- 283 grams sodium hydroxide
-183 grams Tropic Marin Balling part C
Plus AF components abck for trace dosing.
I’m curious do I still need the magnesium with weekly water changes? Instant ocean reef crystals.
Should I take the macro offline? If I dose iron and manganese, was doing everything green on his spreadsheet (previous article from Randy) I’ll add 25%-50% extra yield of cheato overnight with just 3 ml iron and manganese.
Can I add the af components to these solutions as instructions say which element they are to be added to? (Wife doesn’t like all the trace element bottles) I can be the lab rat if needed here.
Can I continue carbon dosing with this method? I assume coral are consuming bacteria in the water column but idk.
Reading that macro take no3 and convert to ammonia to do their processes has me thinking the ammonia dosing will either be absorbed by the macro quick or remain due to low iron and manganese if not dosed every 2 days. If I add no3 it’s a high amount and it never makes it through the night (60-80 mls). Ammonia actually helped it remain detectable presume 1 oz a day will keep it detectable.
Added more fish already. Shoal of scopas now…idk how but they exist peacefully. Switched to a “cleaner food” (idk if true or not) LRS and hikari mysis. I’m feeding 3x a day and enough to make the eel come out and eat the LRS also. Food thaws in tank water and not strained.
This all started because vodka and kalk leading to increased consumption of nutrients. Seeing everything happy points at continue but could be wrong.