Selecting a heater for new build.

[Mongo1.0]

I just got my hands on a Waterbox 130.4 which is a huge upgrade from my 40 breeder. I want to make sure I get the setup right, but I'm currently torn on what heaters to go with.

I've been looking at the IM Helio heaters because I hear they are really reliable, but for two 350w units it’s going to be almost $400. I also hear good things about the Jagers but I'm worried about them sticking on.

Is the IM setup actually worth the money long term? I really don't want to cut corners on this tank, but I also don't want to break the bank if there is a better way to do it. What are you guys running on your larger tanks?

Thanks for any help!

My 180 is in a living room. I have 2 150watt heaters with the settings staggered so if one doesn't handle it the second picks up. Has been working well so far.

 

[Jack’s Reef 2024]

Most interesting is your lowest indoor temperature is it 21 C?. What is your wanted temperature?

I'm pretty sure you can get by with 2*200 W (or even 1*350 W) if the temperature difference between room temperature and desired aquarium temperature is not too high if their watts are real watts.

Sincerely Lasse

Yes I normally keep my house at 21 Celsius.

 

[RobertK]

I feel as though IM Helio Heaters are the best option on the market

^this

Why?

 

[Lasse]

Yes I normally keep my house at 21 Celsius.

What´s are your wanted temperature? In liter and theory - your aquarium is around 480 L - by experiences it means thar the actual volume of water is around 380 L - maybe lower.

Let us say that you have 26 C as wanted temperature. It means that your heater need to manage to keep the temperature at 26 C when your room temperature is 21 degree C.

The general rule here with a un-isolated and open aquarium is that around 0.5 W per L of water in order to compensate for heat losses when the temperature difference is 5 degree C.

The most losses is caused by evaporation and if you have a frame on the top of the aquarium, you reduce the air exchange over the surface, which creates a layer of very high humidity over the surface. This reduces evaporation considerably.

If you turn this around and instead let a fan blow over the surface, this can lower the temperature in the aquarium by several degrees below room temperature. You must also count with heat losses from the skimmer that rise the evaporation a lot.

On the other hand - your pumps and illumination will add heat into the aquarium. In my case - all my pumps add around 60-120 W (3 circulation and 5 streamers) and the light - I do not know. This result in a usage of around 40 % (in running time) of my 200 W heater in my 300 L of water in similar situations as you - maintain 5 degrees C temperature difference. (I use a frame and around 3/4 of the surface is covered by lighting fixture)

I´m pretty sure that an IM Helio of 2*100 W would be enough for you but an 1*350 W is $62 cheaper and a 2*200 W is only $16 more expensive (prices from IM homepage) - therefore my choice would be either 1*350 or 2*200 W sets

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Aaron75]

Why?

They supposedly have built in fail safes that i obviously haven't had to rely on. They keep the temp insanely stable. They're priced fairly. They just seem rock solid.

 

[steveschuerger]

This will sound odd from me an avowed IM tank and Mighty Jet lover, but I started with a Helios in a Discus tank died in less than a year. Replaced it DOA. I found the most solid performance wise was Inkbird controller and Ebo Jager heater. Right now my IM 25 gallon is heated by Inkbird/Orlushy combo. Never again for Helios. Maybe I was just unlucky, but just nope.

 

[RobertK]

This may be obvious, but some of the Inkbird and Ranco/AquaLogic models control both heating and cooling, whereas the Helio controller only appears to control heating, which would necessitate a second controller in those needing cooling control.

 

[Bartanto]

Why?

Accuracy, durability, longevity, form function and build from my experience