Selecting a heater for new build.

Jack’s Reef 2024

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I just got my hands on a Waterbox 130.4 which is a huge upgrade from my 40 breeder. I want to make sure I get the setup right, but I'm currently torn on what heaters to go with.

I've been looking at the IM Helio heaters because I hear they are really reliable, but for two 350w units it’s going to be almost $400. I also hear good things about the Jagers but I'm worried about them sticking on.

Is the IM setup actually worth the money long term? I really don't want to cut corners on this tank, but I also don't want to break the bank if there is a better way to do it. What are you guys running on your larger tanks?

Thanks for any help!
 

Lasse

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Do you really need two 350 W heaters to a total water volume of around 450 L (around 120 G) I use 1 pcs of 200 W heater to around 350 L (91 G) My lowest indoor temperature is between 20 - 21.5 degree C and my aquarium temperature have a conscious daily fluctuation between 24.5 and 27 degrees C in order to mimic natural daily swings on a reef. A typical day - my heater is working between 4 to 5.5 hours in order to achieve this. Please see the graphs below

1770886728411.png

A typical week - outside temperature around -5 degree C. inside between 20 and 21 degree C

1770886813308.png


I use a 200 W TMC titanium heather managed by my GHL computer (P4). I have chose 200 W in order to avoid to high temperature if the regulation get broken.

I have no experiences of the IM heaters but they looks very nice. I would personally not use a heather with inbuild controls - like the Jaeger - in a salt water tank, IMO - there is not a question if they will break down - the question is when! I also prefer a grounded titan heater because it works like a ground probe too.

The build in safety in the IM heaters - I do not see a problem with that. If you place your heater in the sump - be sure that you place your temperature sond in the same apartment as the heater(s). I do not know how the the IM heaters work between each heater - if there is a master and an extra that kick in if the master do not manage the task. If so - why not start with a single setup and ad another lower heater if you get into problems.

If you should start with one 200 W or one 350 W - I do not know. I do not heat during night (room temperature around 20 degree C) - however I heat during day when I get help from the light fixture (room temperature around 21 degree C) but before I start this daily swing - one 200 W heater was enough for me to keep a stable temperature of around 26 degree C - see below from January 2023. I can´t show the on time of the heather in this case.

1770890330026.png


Hope this help

Sincerely Lasse
 

Subsea

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Jack,
Where do you live that you need 700W of heaters in a 120G tank? I live in Texas and I removed all resistive heaters from 150G & 120G systems.

As Lasse pointed out, some temperature fluctuations are normal to fish & coral. And @Lasse lives in Sweden where it gets pretty cold.
 

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I just got my hands on a Waterbox 130.4 which is a huge upgrade from my 40 breeder. I want to make sure I get the setup right, but I'm currently torn on what heaters to go with.

I've been looking at the IM Helio heaters because I hear they are really reliable, but for two 350w units it’s going to be almost $400. I also hear good things about the Jagers but I'm worried about them sticking on.

Is the IM setup actually worth the money long term? I really don't want to cut corners on this tank, but I also don't want to break the bank if there is a better way to do it. What are you guys running on your larger tanks?

Thanks for any help!
I live in northeast Ohio where temps have been below freezing for about a month now. Tanks are in the basement and gets pretty cold at night. The 180 is good with the BRS titanium and inkbird ( 600 watt) the wifes 125 was struggling with standard heaters. Upgraded hers to the same setup as mine and have been keeping up with the cold. Also has option for a second heater on the inkbird for redundancy.
 

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I've got a basement tank as well. I sized my heater for normal times...not anticipating we'd have a three week cold snap that was worse than anything we've had in several decades. Let's just say I've had my water mixing heater jury rigged into my tank the last three weeks and I wish I'd gone with a larger heater originally! (Lucky for me I'm running a controller so at least I can fail safe it off and on).
 

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I just got my hands on a Waterbox 130.4 which is a huge upgrade from my 40 breeder. I want to make sure I get the setup right, but I'm currently torn on what heaters to go with.

I've been looking at the IM Helio heaters because I hear they are really reliable, but for two 350w units it’s going to be almost $400. I also hear good things about the Jagers but I'm worried about them sticking on.

Is the IM setup actually worth the money long term? I really don't want to cut corners on this tank, but I also don't want to break the bank if there is a better way to do it. What are you guys running on your larger tanks?

Thanks for any help!
I live in northeast Ohio as well, I have the IM helio on my 130 system I have 700 watts and it works just fine. been running them for a couple years with no issues. seem to be quality heaters and controller
 

KStatefan

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I do not know anything about the IM heaters but sizing is a little different with a PTC heater they are not a fixed wattage and will decrease as temp goes up.

No mater the brand I would not have a a tank with out using a Ranco controller.
 

Lasse

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As Lasse pointed out, some temperature fluctuations are normal to fish & coral. And @Lasse lives in Sweden where it gets pretty cold.
Yes - and not only by season - there is a fluctuation even during the day. I did a programming of my P4 to follow both seasonal and daily fluctuations. My base is from Northern Sulawesi 2024 but I have place my temperature 3 degree C below the natural - I do not want above 30 degree C in my aquarium. Below you can see the natural fluctuations. It can differ with up 3 degree C during the same day.

1770907841840.png


IMO its a myth that our animals demand a stable temperature.

Sincerely Lasse
 

Subsea

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Yes - and not only by season - there is a fluctuation even during the day. I did a programming of my P4 to follow both seasonal and daily fluctuations. My base is from Northern Sulawesi 2024 but I have place my temperature 3 degree C below the natural - I do not want above 30 degree C in my aquarium. Below you can see the natural fluctuations. It can differ with up 3 degree C during the same day.

1770907841840.png


IMO its a myth that our animals demand a stable temperature.

Sincerely Lasse
Touché.

Dynamic equilibrium is a “law of nature”: stability is not normal in nature or said differently “the only constant is change”.

It’s a Question of Balance, which is my favorite album by the Moody Blues and a good model for life.

I also consider steady state pH a myth. In fact, I promote nighttime pH swings. On healthy IndoPacific reefs, pH fluctuates from 8.2-7.7. Low oxygen is the real issue at night when photosynthetic organisms consume oxygen.
 
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Jack’s Reef 2024

Jack’s Reef 2024

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Thank you all for the input I probably should’ve mentioned I am in Palmdale in California it does get kinda cold but not very often freezing temperatures. I was just saying two 350 watts because when I’m looking that’s 100-200 gallon it says and it’s the only bundle I could find for the IM. I was thinking 600w would be more then enough but unfortunately they don’t have 300wtt from my understanding.
 
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Jack’s Reef 2024

Jack’s Reef 2024

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Do you really need two 350 W heaters to a total water volume of around 450 L (around 120 G) I use 1 pcs of 200 W heater to around 350 L (91 G) My lowest indoor temperature is between 20 - 21.5 degree C and my aquarium temperature have a conscious daily fluctuation between 24.5 and 27 degrees C in order to mimic natural daily swings on a reef. A typical day - my heater is working between 4 to 5.5 hours in order to achieve this. Please see the graphs below

1770886728411.png

A typical week - outside temperature around -5 degree C. inside between 20 and 21 degree C

1770886813308.png


I use a 200 W TMC titanium heather managed by my GHL computer (P4). I have chose 200 W in order to avoid to high temperature if the regulation get broken.

I have no experiences of the IM heaters but they looks very nice. I would personally not use a heather with inbuild controls - like the Jaeger - in a salt water tank, IMO - there is not a question if they will break down - the question is when! I also prefer a grounded titan heater because it works like a ground probe too.

The build in safety in the IM heaters - I do not see a problem with that. If you place your heater in the sump - be sure that you place your temperature sond in the same apartment as the heater(s). I do not know how the the IM heaters work between each heater - if there is a master and an extra that kick in if the master do not manage the task. If so - why not start with a single setup and ad another lower heater if you get into problems.

If you should start with one 200 W or one 350 W - I do not know. I do not heat during night (room temperature around 20 degree C) - however I heat during day when I get help from the light fixture (room temperature around 21 degree C) but before I start this daily swing - one 200 W heater was enough for me to keep a stable temperature of around 26 degree C - see below from January 2023. I can´t show the on time of the heather in this case.

1770890330026.png


Hope this help

Sincerely Lasse
Wow that is very interesting I really appreciate that. It can get to about 3 Celsius there but isolate my house is set to 21 Celsius I was just browsing online and on IM it says 700 watt would be the one that’s 100-200 gallon but if you managing with a 200watt I should be fine with 1 350watt or 2 200 watts.
 
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Jack’s Reef 2024

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I use titanium heaters on inkbird controller. I always run two heaters in case one fails. I keep our house at 68 and have no problem keeping 285g at 76 degrees with a 600 watt heater.
Wow so a 700 would be over kill for my 130 I’m wondering if I could get away with 2 200watts.
 
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I just got my hands on a Waterbox 130.4 which is a huge upgrade from my 40 breeder. I want to make sure I get the setup right, but I'm currently torn on what heaters to go with.

I've been looking at the IM Helio heaters because I hear they are really reliable, but for two 350w units it’s going to be almost $400. I also hear good things about the Jagers but I'm worried about them sticking on.

Is the IM setup actually worth the money long term? I really don't want to cut corners on this tank, but I also don't want to break the bank if there is a better way to do it. What are you guys running on your larger tanks?

Thanks for any help!
I live in northeast Ohio as well, I have the IM helio on my 130 system I have 700 watts and it works just fine. been running them for a couple years with no issues. seem to be quality heaters and controller
Thank your ha is very good to know ya that’s what I got but I do have some corals so I wanted to try to find consistency I wish they had a 600 watt bundle but only found a 700 watt.
 
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Jack’s Reef 2024

Jack’s Reef 2024

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I just got my hands on a Waterbox 130.4 which is a huge upgrade from my 40 breeder. I want to make sure I get the setup right, but I'm currently torn on what heaters to go with.

I've been looking at the IM Helio heaters because I hear they are really reliable, but for two 350w units it’s going to be almost $400. I also hear good things about the Jagers but I'm worried about them sticking on.

Is the IM setup actually worth the money long term? I really don't want to cut corners on this tank, but I also don't want to break the bank if there is a better way to do it. What are you guys running on your larger tanks?

Thanks for any help!
I live in northeast Ohio where temps have been below freezing for about a month now. Tanks are in the basement and gets pretty cold at night. The 180 is good with the BRS titanium and inkbird ( 600 watt) the wifes 125 was struggling with standard heaters. Upgraded hers to the same setup as mine and have been keeping up with the cold. Also has option for a second heater on the inkbird for redundancy.
I was looking at the brs 600 watt but there was a review the controller malfunctioned and went to of 100 Fahrenheit and kinda scared me so I thought I’d spend the extra and get the IM. How long have you ran the brs and has it been reliable?
 

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I just got my hands on a Waterbox 130.4 which is a huge upgrade from my 40 breeder. I want to make sure I get the setup right, but I'm currently torn on what heaters to go with.

I've been looking at the IM Helio heaters because I hear they are really reliable, but for two 350w units it’s going to be almost $400. I also hear good things about the Jagers but I'm worried about them sticking on.

Is the IM setup actually worth the money long term? I really don't want to cut corners on this tank, but I also don't want to break the bank if there is a better way to do it. What are you guys running on your larger tanks?

Thanks for any help!
I live in northeast Ohio where temps have been below freezing for about a month now. Tanks are in the basement and gets pretty cold at night. The 180 is good with the BRS titanium and inkbird ( 600 watt) the wifes 125 was struggling with standard heaters. Upgraded hers to the same setup as mine and have been keeping up with the cold. Also has option for a second heater on the inkbird for redundancy.
I was looking at the brs 600 watt but there was a review the controller malfunctioned and went to of 100 Fahrenheit and kinda scared me so I thought I’d spend the extra and get the IM. How long have you ran the brs and has it been reliable?
I saw the same reviews. The 180 has been operational for a little over a year with no problems. Just set up the wifes about 2 months ago. Went with it due to price and so far so good. Im guessing like everything else, your going to have a bad one here and there.
 

Lasse

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Most interesting is your lowest indoor temperature is it 21 C?. What is your wanted temperature?

I'm pretty sure you can get by with 2*200 W (or even 1*350 W) if the temperature difference between room temperature and desired aquarium temperature is not too high if their watts are real watts.

Sincerely Lasse
 

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