Show how you hide your light electrical bricks?

[NancyFish]

I have a kessil ap9x and totally did not expect the enormous brick on the cord.

Orginally I was thinking of putting all electrical next to my sump in cabinet and hoping to raise it off the floor (my outlet is in my sump cabinet without choice). I expected a lot of cords but not the bricks.

But I keep thinking what if a pipe leaks and runs under the top platform and drips on the electrical that way. And if I put the brick on the platform behind my tank (again aside my pipes), what if it gets splashed.

 

[Peace River]

Great question! I don't have any pictures, but in the past I have used elevated raceways, heavy duty velcro connected to the cabinet with screws, or other types of hangers all fixed to the inside of the stand. Another option to explore (which I haven't used) is the Hydros XP8 or comparable. Good luck with your search!

 

[NancyFish]

Great question! I don't have any pictures, but in the past I have used elevated raceways, heavy duty velcro connected to the cabinet with screws, or other types of hangers all fixed to the inside of the stand. Another option to explore (which I haven't used) is the Hydros XP8 or comparable. Good luck with your search!

Yeah I wasn’t sure I how I wanted to proceed with the electrical til I saw it all together. My stand is made out of hickory which is prone to splitting with screws so whatever I do I want to make sure it’s permanent.

So the hydros, Instead of using a separate power brick for each device, you can connect the devices to the Hydros outlets, with the dc barrels, which will provide power and control the devices through the controller and skip a few power bricks?

 

[Bosreef]

I run a separate electrical cabinet for all this. Plus my top off resevior and salt water reservoir for awc.

 

[Red_Beard]

I made a panel, painted plywood that i screwed to my stand, this is a sacrificial panel that i can screw to willy nilly and if it gets too many holes and is ugly i replace it. It has hanger screws for controllers as well as velcro straps to hold power bricks. I mounted it at the corners.
That coulpled with finger duct (a type of cable race) keeps mine managable

 

[Peace River]

Yeah I wasn’t sure I how I wanted to proceed with the electrical til I saw it all together. My stand is made out of hickory which is prone to splitting with screws so whatever I do I want to make sure it’s permanent.

So the hydros, Instead of using a separate power brick for each device, you can connect the devices to the Hydros outlets, with the dc barrels, which will provide power and control the devices through the controller and skip a few power bricks?

Yes, that is the general idea with the Hydros XP. There are some limitations, but it is worth considering. Another approach that aligns with some of the other suggestions is a controller board like the one from Adaptive Reef. All of these increase the cost, but there are often improvement options for a price.

 

[NancyFish]

I run a separate electrical cabinet for all this. Plus my top off resevior and salt water reservoir for awc.

See I was thinking of a scrap panel, but im snug in space and my main outlet is directly behind where it’d be, and have my ato next to the sump but pushed forward so I have room for wires. But idk how I feel about not visually seeing the wires in a cabinet prone to water. Not to mention the cramped space in general.

 

[NancyFish]

I made a panel, painted plywood that i screwed to my stand, this is a sacrificial panel that i can screw to willy nilly and if it gets too many holes and is ugly i replace it. It has hanger screws for controllers as well as velcro straps to hold power bricks. I mounted it at the corners.
That coulpled with finger duct (a type of cable race) keeps mine managable

This may not be a bad idea, right now I only have my upper frame that I was thinking of placing the controllers up there. But I may be able to push them to the back wall if I double up the board (right now the back panel is only 1/2” plywood).

So you just Velcro the bricks and cords directly to the board. I seen dozens of control panels but it’s usually hiding half the cords.

 

[NancyFish]

Yes, that is the general idea with the Hydros XP. There are some limitations, but it is worth considering. Another approach that aligns with some of the other suggestions is a controller board like the one from Adaptive Reef. All of these increase the cost, but there are often improvement options for a price.

It looks like the kraken may be able to replace those power bricks and outlet plugs, reducing a ton of space taken. But that’s a hefty price tag. I actually have the hydros starter x2 kit, but I didn’t open it because I was thinking of getting something with more capacity.

 

[Peace River]

It looks like the kraken may be able to replace those power bricks and outlet plugs, reducing a ton of space taken. But that’s a hefty price tag. I actually have the hydros starter x2 kit, but I didn’t open it because I was thinking of getting something with more capacity.

Yes, the Kraken is even a more complete option, but (as you said) with an equally impressive price tag. Good luck with whatever direction you choose!

 

[Red_Beard]

This may not be a bad idea, right now I only have my upper frame that I was thinking of placing the controllers up there. But I may be able to push them to the back wall if I double up the board (right now the back panel is only 1/2” plywood).

So you just Velcro the bricks and cords directly to the board. I seen dozens of control panels but it’s usually hiding half the cords.

Yep, the cords all get ran in the finger duct, the board is just mounting space.

Could be cleaner, but space is tight.
I also use a meanwell power supply to replace a couple power bricks, but as you see it isnt plug and play as is and will def void warrenty, but my radion gen 3s are out of that window and i wasnt about to pay $50 for a power supply.

 

[NancyFish]

Yep, the cords all get ran in the finger duct, the board is just mounting space.

Could be cleaner, but space is tight.
I also use a meanwell power supply to replace a couple power bricks, but as you see it isnt plug and play as is and will def void warrenty, but my radion gen 3s are out of that window and i wasnt about to pay $50 for a power supply.

I’ve had enough diy for this build until it’s on its feet, don’t think I trust myself rigging a meanwell anytime soon lol.

Can I ask once your electrical panel is up, how often you actually play with anything on it? I was looking at the footprint of some of my devices and while they have controls on them, I can’t imagine I’d be touching them frrequently

 

[Gumbies R Us]

I have my light bricks placed inside of a stand next to the tank, out of sight, out of mind

 

[biecacka]

I place mine on top of my floating canopy.


Corey

 

[Red_Beard]

I’ve had enough diy for this build until it’s on its feet, don’t think I trust myself rigging a meanwell anytime soon lol.

Can I ask once your electrical panel is up, how often you actually play with anything on it? I was looking at the footprint of some of my devices and while they have controls on them, I can’t imagine I’d be touching them frrequently

Unless i get new equipment, i don't. Ive changed lighting, added an inkbird, added a powerhead, changed return pumps, changed lighting supply to meanwell(my son 2 found the switches and sources it off and on a few times fast and one factory supply failed). I mean unless i have to change something, i leave it be.