Thanks. I have used UV sterilizers for years. I have observed the following:Magnificent images of your fish, quite clean and healthy. Regal angelfish from the Red Sea have positive experiences for many aquarists, but as you say they are already very expensive, lately I have seen several specimens from the Indo that do not look promising, the food passes by without even being seen. What are the positive points of your uv filter? I've considered one for my future tank, but opinions are widely mixed and I'm honestly not sure I'll place it in the future.
No bacterial blooms
Crystal clear water
My understanding, at least with Aqua UV brand, is if it is run at the proper flow rate it will control fish diseases. For the 25 watt that would be around 400 gph. I have seen throughout the years using UV a fish or 2 may show a few spots of crypt one day but then after 7-10 days no more spots and no other fish infected. Of course there are many other factors to consider like stress, water quality and diet. The key with a UV sterilizer is proper sizing and flow rate. I run mine on a dedicated pump that picks up the water in the first chamber after the filter socks then return to the last chamber where the return pump is. This assures that the same water isn't goin through the UV again. Below is a chart for the 25 watt classic model:
Saltwater: 150 Gallons | |
Recommended Flow Rate for UV Dosages | at 30,000 µw/cm2 (EOL) GPH: 1,200 (Max Flow Rate) at 45,000 µw/cm2 (EOL) GPH: 800 at 60,000 µw/cm2 (EOL) GPH: 600 at 75,000 µw/cm2 (EOL) GPH: 480 at 90,000 µw/cm2 (EOL) GPH: 400 (Min Flow Rate) |
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Information for Reef Tanks | A UV rated in the 30,000 or 45,000 µw/cm2 (EOL) is ideal for the reef environment. UV’s used at higher kill rates will destroy the planktonic food supply for the reef. |
Information for Marine Fish | (No reef or live rock) A UV rated in the 75,000 or 90,000 µw/cm2 (EOL) will be the most effective at controlling fish disease. All UV dosages are calculated at the end of lamp life (14 months). |