Very nice @Txdragonslayer , I have been thinking of T-Slot stands my self as well. Looks very nice!
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I think you went a little over board with the bottom supports, I would personally remove some of the bottom ones to fit your sump. So that it doesnt carry any vibrations to the tank. Just my opinionOK, So I had a chance to build it to make sure all was sized correctly and it was spot on. Building took some time to figure the correct order because some pieces need to slide in before the end pieces are installed. Its like adult lego.
Measurements are down to fraction of a millimeter. I still have to dissemble it and put it away while I finish up the room and run necessary utilities behind the tank. In the end it will be wrapped with finished ply, have 5 doors, etc.
Though I'd share the skeleton for now. Designed by FrameTech for 250G up top with a 100G plus sump underneath. At 46" tall I absolutely love it.
I think you went a little over board with the bottom supports, I would personally remove some of the bottom ones to fit your sump. So that it doesnt carry any vibrations to the tank. Just my opinion
I understand and a good plan, I just prefer to not have the sump "connected " any way to the stand. I.e. Elos stands are a good example, I never thought much of it till I had a stand that was open enough to accommodate the sump. Little things like the skimmer and return pump amazingly seem quieter.I'm not sure we are on the same page. There is going to be a 3/4 plywood as well as 1/2" foam board below the 6 foot sump on top of these supports. I don't think I'm worried about vibrations and I don't want to put then tank directly on the floor. Matter of fact there is going to be insulating foam below the plywood between those members to minimize transfer of cold from the floor below.
I am not sure if you can see here, but this sump is inbetween the stand and will sit on foam and a board ofMDF, that I will water proof with pond epoxy, to catch any spillage of water. Just wanted to share.I understand and a good plan, I just prefer to not have the sump "connected " any way to the stand. I.e. Elos stands are a good example, I never thought much of it till I had a stand that was open enough to accommodate the sump. Little things like the skimmer and return pump amazingly seem quieter.
I think the best series for all aquariums is the 15 series, its thinker aluminum and strong enough for most builds.I've been researching and looking into using a T-Slot Aluminum Stand for my next tank build. I've found a couple of companies online that sell all of the materials, but before I commit, I'd love to see some examples of tanks that are actually using T-Slot Aluminum Stands.
If you are using a T-Slot Aluminum stand for your tank, please share some pictures of your set-up, and specify:
1) Your tank size ?
2) What company you bought the materials from ?
3) Which frame profile did you use to build the stand (30/30, 45/45, 60,60, etc) ?
4) Your opinion of this type of stand and material now that you have it (are you happy you went with T-Slot Aluminum or do you regret it ?)
5) How does it hold up to salt spray ? Have you noticed any rusting or corrosion ?
6) Have you had any issues with racking ?
7) Anything else you want to share about T-Slot Aluminum?
Thanks ahead of time for sharing !!!
OK, So I had a chance to build it to make sure all was sized correctly and it was spot on. Building took some time to figure the correct order because some pieces need to slide in before the end pieces are installed. Its like adult lego.
Measurements are down to fraction of a millimeter. I still have to dissemble it and put it away while I finish up the room and run necessary utilities behind the tank. In the end it will be wrapped with finished ply, have 5 doors, etc.
Though I'd share the skeleton for now. Designed by FrameTech for 250G up top with a 100G plus sump underneath. At 46" tall I absolutely love it.
I am not sure if you can see here, but this sump is inbetween the stand and will sit on foam and a board ofMDF, that I will water proof with pond epoxy, to catch any spillage of water. Just wanted to share.
@dantimdad thank you so much! It was pretty easy, I hope it lasts lol, we shall seeLove the lighting!
@denniscartier I had a similar issue when I built a smaller 10 series stand for a small planted tank. I think the best thing to do for an aquarium because of the weight is to order the stand as a "kit" from a distributor that way you get the all the joints properly tightened and squared. If you piece meal it together like I did, you sometimes buy the wrong pieces.I can't show pictures of the stand I built, but never used (Samsung SD card corruption bug). I do however use lots of extrusions in my build thread (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-blue-window-500-g-in-wall-never-ending-build.465206/) and I go through the story of building a stand out of 20 series extrusions and then deciding not to use it all together.
The biggest concerning for these types of stands (in my view) is racking. The strength comes down to how secure you make the joints. The largest corner braces you can use with your series of extrusions is what you want to use to combat racking. In my case, I was using corner extrusions that were too small and had I been using bigger ones, the stand would have given me more confidence. Using lock washers also would have helped as a member suggests in my build thread.
Dennis
I am not sure if you can see here, but this sump is inbetween the stand and will sit on foam and a board ofMDF, that I will water proof with pond epoxy, to catch any spillage of water. Just wanted to share.
I can't show pictures of the stand I built, but never used (Samsung SD card corruption bug). I do however use lots of extrusions in my build thread (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-blue-window-500-g-in-wall-never-ending-build.465206/) and I go through the story of building a stand out of 20 series extrusions and then deciding not to use it all together.
The biggest concerning for these types of stands (in my view) is racking. The strength comes down to how secure you make the joints. The largest corner braces you can use with your series of extrusions is what you want to use to combat racking. In my case, I was using corner extrusions that were too small and had I been using bigger ones, the stand would have given me more confidence. Using lock washers also would have helped as a member suggests in my build thread.
Dennis
Yes I am going to make a small 1.5"-2" lip instead of silicone I use Pond Armor epoxy to paint the inside and it water proofs the whole thing. This saved my a$$once before.If you are going that route you should just build a "pan" out of MDF or Plywood with a small lip to catch any spill over. My last stand had that (I siliconed all edges before sealing and painting) and when the skimmate locker overflowed the leak detector woke us up before the water went over the 1.25" barrier. I took a wet vac to it and wiped around and we went back to sleep. Avast Marine replaced the probe for me a week later. I might do something similar here.
That said, I will not be placing my sump on the floor; I never had any problems with vibrations in my last build and with the stand being 46" tall i don't need it any lower than its going to be. The only thing I would possibly already change in my plans at the moment is get a 72*24 sump vs the 72*18 that I already sourced.