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Someone please help me!!!! My hammer corals keep dying!!

yan2pr

I grow GHA better than anything else
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What should I feed? And how often? Also are my phosphates really too high?
Theres a lot of options out there for feeding, i dont think you can go wrong with one or the other. I like reef roids from polylab and phosphates should range from .03 to .08 if im not mistaken. Dont freak out you should be fine just dont make the mistake i did when the same thing happened to me, let the coral be, dont move it around too much it will get more stressed and it will make it worse. I think he will come back just start working on lowering those phosphates.
 

Magellan

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What should I feed? And how often? Also are my phosphates really too high?
Unfortunately, all of those questions have completely arbitrary answers.

However, in my opinion: yes, your phosphates are too high. You want to see them much lower, .1 or less, ideally .03-.06. That will hinder nuisance algae from growing and allow your clean up crew to take care of things while still allowing your corals the necessary nutrients to grow.

as for food: there are a million+1 different things you can put in your tank, all of which claim to grow massive colorful corals. Reef Chili is a good option, also Reef roids is something that is very common (because it works) but use sparingly because it will also grow algae! Same with amino acids, like Fuel or Red Sea A+B.

for me, I dose amino acids every other day, and feed a small amount of Reef Nutritions Phyto Feast and Oyster Feast every day. It took a while for my tank to adjust to that much feeding, and I definitely wouldn’t recommend that to a new tank!

Maybe try starting with some aminos once a week, and broadcast some reef roids twice a week and see how that goes. As your corals start to grow, (and you get more corals!) you can try increasing the amount and frequency of your feeding.

you will no doubt see some algae anytime you start adding nutrients to your system. Don’t panic: this is normal. Allow your tank time to adjust, and make sure you have an adequate CUC.
627E67AD-0605-4359-8447-32E03D2F8569.jpeg
 
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Natescorals

Natescorals

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Unfortunately, all of those questions have completely arbitrary answers.

However, in my opinion: yes, your phosphates are too high. You want to see them much lower, .1 or less, ideally .03-.06. That will hinder nuisance algae from growing and allow your clean up crew to take care of things while still allowing your corals the necessary nutrients to grow.

as for food: there are a million+1 different things you can put in your tank, all of which claim to grow massive colorful corals. Reef Chili is a good option, also Reef roids is something that is very common (because it works) but use sparingly because it will also grow algae! Same with amino acids, like Fuel or Red Sea A+B.

for me, I dose amino acids every other day, and feed a small amount of Reef Nutritions Phyto Feast and Oyster Feast every day. It took a while for my tank to adjust to that much feeding, and I definitely wouldn’t recommend that to a new tank!

Maybe try starting with some aminos once a week, and broadcast some reef roids twice a week and see how that goes. As your corals start to grow, (and you get more corals!) you can try increasing the amount and frequency of your feeding.

you will no doubt see some algae anytime you start adding nutrients to your system. Don’t panic: this is normal. Allow your tank time to adjust, and make sure you have an adequate CUC.
627E67AD-0605-4359-8447-32E03D2F8569.jpeg
I had a huge Cyanobacteria outbreak but that’s all gone now. Right now I actually don’t have any algae at all in my tank
 

Magellan

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I’m using a canister filter with polyester battling and purigen
Are you changing out that polyester regularly? Canister filters work, but you have to maintain them. For the meantime, just try adding a bag of Phosguard. Works great for me, without completely stripping all my phosphates like GFO can.

@sfin52 you are the canister wizard, any advice?
 
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Natescorals

Natescorals

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How long have you been running your Alk at 11? I keep mine between 8.5 and 9.0 and all of my hammers, frogspawns and torches grow like weeds. What are your other parameters?
It just goes up to 11 when I do my weekly water change at the end of the week before water change it’s at about 10dkh
 
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W1ngz

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Seriously? You've already been through ALL of this troubleshooting and ALL of these suggestions last week, in this thread.

 

W1ngz

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Oh and this one too.

 
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Natescorals

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Oh and this one too.

I just don’t know what to do
 

champyeti

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I just don’t know what to do
Just let the corals be.

They close up sometimes if something touches them or just because they dont like the color of your walls. Especially when lights go on or off or when they have just been moved and dipped.

Bring your phosphates down slowly and dont fuss over them too much. I find a little neglect does a coral well sometimes rather than being too hands-on.
 
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Natescorals

Natescorals

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Seriously? You've already been through ALL of this troubleshooting and ALL of these suggestions last week, in this thread.

Your the one who told me I should remove all my filtration which was very bad advice. After removal of all the media that you specifically told me to remove all my corals have taken a turn for the worst. I haven’t changed anything besides the filtration you told me I should remove. Haven’t added any new corals or any new fish or anything. Ever since removing the stuff it put my corals into shock and phosphates spiked and nitrates went up. I don’t understand why you think poly filter removed trace elements when it doesn’t. Yeah it might remove iron in small amounts but why does it matter when my nitrates and phosphates are so low that it’s starving my chaeto. Obviously I should remove the chaeto as that might not be needed if nitrates and phosphates were almost at 0. All I have had was negative effects from removing all of that..
 

Bfragale

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This is the only store that I know of in my area that sells coral Frags. Otherwise I have no other place to get corals for my tank. This store doesn’t give people parameters. It’s just a all sales are final store
test the water that the frag came in. That way you don’t even have to ask the store. ...
 

Bfragale

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But what I am trying to figure out is how can I lower the phosphates without killing or stressing the corals?
You can use Brightwell Aquatics Phosphate-E to quickly and safely remove phosphates, but this is not a long term solution. Also if you do use it, make sure not to over dose, and only bring it down no more then .5 per day.
Long term you need Adequate export, but the Phosphate E can get it to levels you want, then try to maintain those levels. (Fuge, water changes, reactors etc- which ever method works for you)

image.jpg
 
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Natescorals

Natescorals

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I never had a phosphate or nitrate issue til I removed all the filtration everyone was telling me to remove. I think the fish tore some flesh from the hammer. I think it was the shrimp not my parameters. But now it’s definitely my phosphates
 

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