SPS Challenging STN Issue - need suggestions!

Outdrsyguy1

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Hi everyone! I heard from a fellow reefer that there were some very knowledgable folks here and my local area club can't figure out what's wrong. Hopefully you guys can suggest some things to try to solve the riddle. I never had much luck with sps (too few nutrients, then too many, tried gfo/carbon, carbon dosing, now finally settled on zeovit method). I found my exacting anal nature worked best with zeovit.

Current problem is STN from the base up in all my acros and only in my acros. I have stylo, spongode, digi's, setosa, and birds nests. Everything was super pale/dying for a long time then when I started zeovit I got things under control and it all started coloring/recovering. Went on vacation and tank alk crashed down to 6.4 dkh. STN started then and killed most the acros or is still continuing. I got things settled and back to 7.4 dkh (where I had it before) and about 4 weeks later added ~5 sps figuring that the stn should not affect them since things are stable. Well the new acro's are also STN and I can't figure out why. I'll post my stats now and then everything i've tried followed by a couple pics for example.

A. Total water volume ( Please include sump, etc.)
approximately 100 gallons (110 tall tank (4' wide), and ~15 gallon sump)

B. What are your parameters? ( CA, ALK, PO4,Salinity, etc.)
CA - 430, Alk 7.3 dkh (measured on 2 different red sea test kits, waiting on hanna checker to arrive in mail). Measured against fellow reefers red sea and salifert and they were about 1 dkh higher than me (not sure how old his kits were). 2 LFS worthless tests using api (12+dkh and 16 dkh) which not possible. Alk was 7.4 before I went on vacation and things were doing fine. 0<PO4<.027 using elos test kit, closer to 0 than .027. Nitrate .5 using red sea No3 pro. Salinity 1.026 measured with refractometer calibrated that day with pinpoint 1.026 test solution. Accuracy also verified against 2 other reefers tanks, potassium 425 using red sea potassium pro, temperature 78.3 to 79.3 using apex and chiller (never leaves this range), ph 7.92 to 8.13 depending on night/day measure by apex lab probe, magnesium 1320 by red sea magnesium pro

C. Type of lighting. Please include age, watts, and bulb/ballast name.
2 custom made Cree binned LED panels with 3 watt LED's (66 total per light bank) from reefledlights.com. I went with this over commercial builds for more led power and to spread the lights out over the top of the tank better. 18" x 8.5" per panel. Each LED bank has 3 dimmer channels, 1. cool white/royal blue, 2. blue, 3. highnoon/moonlighting. Each bank has the following make-up 36 XT-E Royal Blue, 15 XT-E Cool White, 3 XP-blue (moon lights and high noon), 6 Hyper violet UV, 6 XT-E High noon. The high noon's really have some par boost to them so I don't run them very high. If everything was on full I get around 800 par near the top and 500 par in the sand. I run things typically around 200 to 450 par with most of the corals in the 250 to 350 range. Lighting schedule: blues/whites ramp up for 1 hour, then stay constant for about 7 hours and ramp down 1 hour, high noon ramps up and back down over 4 hours to emulate mid day sun. System looks about 20k most of the day with the high noons around 14k color. I believe the dimmers provided also run led's at less than full 3 watts to preserve life. Lights are about 1 year old now. Originally ran coralife 2 x 250 halide w/ 2 95W PC's that provided very poor par and too much heat.

D. Filtration method (Skimmer, GFO, DSB, etc.)
2 - 200 micron mesh filter socks in return, 1 - 100 micron felt filter sock on outlet of skimmer (mostly to catch air bubbles, but also catches a fair amount of debris missed by return socks. Socks all changed about every 5 days and washed in washer with mild soap and super rinse cycle, also a little bleach added. Dried thoroughly afterwards before use
Kent Marine Nautilus turbo-eductor skimmer (came used with tank, seems to work fairly decent for me.
Zeovit method with 1 Liter of zeolites and .35ml zeostart 2x a day. I dose other stuff depending on the day but dosing seems similar to others i've seen.
NO GFO or any other po4 reducers per zeo instructions
~ .5" sand bed, not more than 1"
RO/DI for make-up water measures 0 tds with hand held meter recently calibrated
zeovit carbon ~.5 liter in loose bag changed once a month

E. What types of corals do you keep other than SPS?
I have green star polyps, a few scattered mushrooms (~15 max), 2 leath toad stools (one brown, 5" diameter, one huge with green tenticles ~10" in diameter), green digi, purple digi, some other kind of blue/purple digi, purple stylo, spongode, psammacora, gold aussie torch, duncan, setosa, purple monti, red monti, sour apple birds nest, bird of paradise birds nest (i think), bright green branching leather, kenya branching brown leather, green slimer (STN bad), garf bonsie (STN bad), Oz's green acro (STN a bit), red millie (STN bad), ORA Red Planet (STN medium+), Green staghorn (STN bad), light blue staghorn (STN bad), pulsing steel blue zenia, pulsing pink zenia, ORA red goniopora, some branching LPS that looks like green frogspawn but without the splitting (single tentacles), zoa's in a few places ~ 100 polyps total, purple sea fan (photosynthetic kind), 5 head kryptonite candycane, small sunset montipora frag. Most everything is frag sized with a few colony's. The brown toadstool had GSP growing on the trunk of it and irritating it obviously. I just removed it and put it in quarantine tank 4 days ago.

F. How long has the tank been running?
2 years almost to the day

G. What are you dosing? Dosing schedule?
dose 2 part from brs. about 15 ml per night alk and 10 ml per night calcium. never had to add magnesium
a few drops zeofood7, sponge power, coral booster, coral vitalizer, and amino acids. Only a few drops a night from a couple of those and changes every day

H. Which brand of salt are you using?
reefers best currently. Iv'e used instant ocean in the past, both regular and reef crystals, and also red sea coral pro

I. What brand of test kits are you employing?
red sea, elos, soon hanna, see above for which for which elements

J. What are you using for CA/ALK supplementation?
BRS 2 part with dosing pumps via apex schedule. Calcium doses once an hour over the course of mid day for about 4 hours. Alk doses at night once an hour for about 6 hours (a few minutes per dose typically on both of those)
water changes every 2 weeks about 10%

K. What are you using for flow? (Pump names, how many, placement, etc.)
Not sure the main return pump, it's pretty big (came used) and sits outside the sump.
2 - Tunze 6105 that go from 0 to 100%. One 0 for 2 secs, on for 4, other 0 for 2 seconds on for 6.
One medium sized korellia (came used, not sure the size). I've got a pretty serious amount of flow now, i used to run the tunzes lower but a couple weeks ago someone recommended more flow so I jacked it up. hasn't seemed to have made a huge difference. Some polyps extend more and some things might grow a hair faster. STN still similar rate, maybe a hair slower. I have 2 jabao i can use but more flow than i have now might be just a little too crazy honestly.

Here's what i've done recently
checked stray voltage (around 8 volts, pretty minimal)
changed RO/DI cartridges/resin even though already had 0 tds, had to try something...
increase flow

I'm thinking of trying to pull all the leathers out and maybe the xenia too and see if anything changes. I run carbon and "massage the bag" every couple days but who knows.

my old sps were pale but new sps stayed decent color but just STN from base up. I really think alk is okay, lightings good, and water params are good. very little algae though I do have some bubble algae going on and some aptasia i'm trying to kill with CBB and peppermints (not going very well currently)

I'll post a couple pics after this.

Please let me know if you have ANY suggestions I could try, I really want to be able to grow acro's, especially millie's!!!!!
In the last 2 years i've battle zoa pox, red bugs, AEFW (that sucked!), too little nutrients, and clownfish that decided to be on a hit squad. I've beat it all but just can't get acro's to do well.

Thanks in advance!!!!!!!
Rusty
Atlanta Reefer









 
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Outdrsyguy1

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Outdrsyguy1

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Current green slimer
Sorry, it's night and lights are off. This is about 10 days after above slimer pic
 

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The first thing that strikes me is the low Alk. I know seawater is 7 but depending what tank your stuff came from could have had higher alk and caused some of the STN a that you are experiencing now. Lighting will not be the culprit. You did not mention Mag levels. When a tank crashes it usually affects things for awhile after the crash. My suggestion would be depending on how big the acros are that are affected, I would cut to 1" above STN let heal 48 hours and reglue then hope for the best. The most important thing you can do right now is maintain a stabile environment. Swings in chemistry right now would not be good. Good luck and hang in there.
 
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thanks for the note, I did mention mag at 1320 but it's hard to find in that war and peace post i put up lol. I know 7.3 dkh sounds low but in the zeovit world it's good (supposed to be 6.5 to 7.5 as the recommended range). I know the zeo stuff's out there but I was having 0 luck with the gfo method and guesswork as to nutrients needed. Plus everything was growing decently before and no problems with STN at the 7.4 dkh I had in the 6 weeks before I went on vacation.
Now the new frags came from a reefer that I think kept his alk around 9 to 10 so that could be possible. I did acclimate the corals over the course of an hour (while keeping water appropriate temp) so not sure there. They took probably 3 or 4 days after I got them to show signs of STN, some even started encrusting in spots while starting to STN in others.
I did try raising alk to about 8.1 but didn't notice any slowing of STN or recovering so let it float back down over the course of 2 weeks.
 

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Hi everyone! I heard from a fellow reefer that there were some very knowledgable folks here and my local area club can't figure out what's wrong. Hopefully you guys can suggest some things to try to solve the riddle. I never had much luck with sps (too few nutrients, then too many, tried gfo/carbon, carbon dosing, now finally settled on zeovit method). I found my exacting anal nature worked best with zeovit.

Current problem is STN from the base up in all my acros and only in my acros. I have stylo, spongode, digi's, setosa, and birds nests. Everything was super pale/dying for a long time then when I started zeovit I got things under control and it all started coloring/recovering. Went on vacation and tank alk crashed down to 6.4 dkh. STN started then and killed most the acros or is still continuing. I got things settled and back to 7.4 dkh (where I had it before) and about 4 weeks later added ~5 sps figuring that the stn should not affect them since things are stable. Well the new acro's are also STN and I can't figure out why. I'll post my stats now and then everything i've tried followed by a couple pics for example.

A. Total water volume ( Please include sump, etc.)
approximately 100 gallons (110 tall tank (4' wide), and ~15 gallon sump)

B. What are your parameters? ( CA, ALK, PO4,Salinity, etc.)
CA - 430, Alk 7.3 dkh (measured on 2 different red sea test kits, waiting on hanna checker to arrive in mail). Measured against fellow reefers red sea and salifert and they were about 1 dkh higher than me (not sure how old his kits were). 2 LFS worthless tests using api (12+dkh and 16 dkh) which not possible. Alk was 7.4 before I went on vacation and things were doing fine. 0<PO4<.027 using elos test kit, closer to 0 than .027. Nitrate .5 using red sea No3 pro. Salinity 1.026 measured with refractometer calibrated that day with pinpoint 1.026 test solution. Accuracy also verified against 2 other reefers tanks, potassium 425 using red sea potassium pro, temperature 78.3 to 79.3 using apex and chiller (never leaves this range), ph 7.92 to 8.13 depending on night/day measure by apex lab probe, magnesium 1320 by red sea magnesium pro

C. Type of lighting. Please include age, watts, and bulb/ballast name.
2 custom made Cree binned LED panels with 3 watt LED's (66 total per light bank) from reefledlights.com. I went with this over commercial builds for more led power and to spread the lights out over the top of the tank better. 18" x 8.5" per panel. Each LED bank has 3 dimmer channels, 1. cool white/royal blue, 2. blue, 3. highnoon/moonlighting. Each bank has the following make-up 36 XT-E Royal Blue, 15 XT-E Cool White, 3 XP-blue (moon lights and high noon), 6 Hyper violet UV, 6 XT-E High noon. The high noon's really have some par boost to them so I don't run them very high. If everything was on full I get around 800 par near the top and 500 par in the sand. I run things typically around 200 to 450 par with most of the corals in the 250 to 350 range. Lighting schedule: blues/whites ramp up for 1 hour, then stay constant for about 7 hours and ramp down 1 hour, high noon ramps up and back down over 4 hours to emulate mid day sun. System looks about 20k most of the day with the high noons around 14k color. I believe the dimmers provided also run led's at less than full 3 watts to preserve life. Lights are about 1 year old now. Originally ran coralife 2 x 250 halide w/ 2 95W PC's that provided very poor par and too much heat.

D. Filtration method (Skimmer, GFO, DSB, etc.)
2 - 200 micron mesh filter socks in return, 1 - 100 micron felt filter sock on outlet of skimmer (mostly to catch air bubbles, but also catches a fair amount of debris missed by return socks. Socks all changed about every 5 days and washed in washer with mild soap and super rinse cycle, also a little bleach added. Dried thoroughly afterwards before use
Kent Marine Nautilus turbo-eductor skimmer (came used with tank, seems to work fairly decent for me.
Zeovit method with 1 Liter of zeolites and .35ml zeostart 2x a day. I dose other stuff depending on the day but dosing seems similar to others i've seen.
NO GFO or any other po4 reducers per zeo instructions
~ .5" sand bed, not more than 1"
RO/DI for make-up water measures 0 tds with hand held meter recently calibrated
zeovit carbon ~.5 liter in loose bag changed once a month

E. What types of corals do you keep other than SPS?
I have green star polyps, a few scattered mushrooms (~15 max), 2 leath toad stools (one brown, 5" diameter, one huge with green tenticles ~10" in diameter), green digi, purple digi, some other kind of blue/purple digi, purple stylo, spongode, psammacora, gold aussie torch, duncan, setosa, purple monti, red monti, sour apple birds nest, bird of paradise birds nest (i think), bright green branching leather, kenya branching brown leather, green slimer (STN bad), garf bonsie (STN bad), Oz's green acro (STN a bit), red millie (STN bad), ORA Red Planet (STN medium+), Green staghorn (STN bad), light blue staghorn (STN bad), pulsing steel blue zenia, pulsing pink zenia, ORA red goniopora, some branching LPS that looks like green frogspawn but without the splitting (single tentacles), zoa's in a few places ~ 100 polyps total, purple sea fan (photosynthetic kind), 5 head kryptonite candycane, small sunset montipora frag. Most everything is frag sized with a few colony's. The brown toadstool had GSP growing on the trunk of it and irritating it obviously. I just removed it and put it in quarantine tank 4 days ago.

F. How long has the tank been running?
2 years almost to the day

G. What are you dosing? Dosing schedule?
dose 2 part from brs. about 15 ml per night alk and 10 ml per night calcium. never had to add magnesium
a few drops zeofood7, sponge power, coral booster, coral vitalizer, and amino acids. Only a few drops a night from a couple of those and changes every day

H. Which brand of salt are you using?
reefers best currently. Iv'e used instant ocean in the past, both regular and reef crystals, and also red sea coral pro

I. What brand of test kits are you employing?
red sea, elos, soon hanna, see above for which for which elements

J. What are you using for CA/ALK supplementation?
BRS 2 part with dosing pumps via apex schedule. Calcium doses once an hour over the course of mid day for about 4 hours. Alk doses at night once an hour for about 6 hours (a few minutes per dose typically on both of those)
water changes every 2 weeks about 10%

K. What are you using for flow? (Pump names, how many, placement, etc.)
Not sure the main return pump, it's pretty big (came used) and sits outside the sump.
2 - Tunze 6105 that go from 0 to 100%. One 0 for 2 secs, on for 4, other 0 for 2 seconds on for 6.
One medium sized korellia (came used, not sure the size). I've got a pretty serious amount of flow now, i used to run the tunzes lower but a couple weeks ago someone recommended more flow so I jacked it up. hasn't seemed to have made a huge difference. Some polyps extend more and some things might grow a hair faster. STN still similar rate, maybe a hair slower. I have 2 jabao i can use but more flow than i have now might be just a little too crazy honestly.

Here's what i've done recently
checked stray voltage (around 8 volts, pretty minimal)
changed RO/DI cartridges/resin even though already had 0 tds, had to try something...
increase flow

I'm thinking of trying to pull all the leathers out and maybe the xenia too and see if anything changes. I run carbon and "massage the bag" every couple days but who knows.

my old sps were pale but new sps stayed decent color but just STN from base up. I really think alk is okay, lightings good, and water params are good. very little algae though I do have some bubble algae going on and some aptasia i'm trying to kill with CBB and peppermints (not going very well currently)

I'll post a couple pics after this.

Please let me know if you have ANY suggestions I could try, I really want to be able to grow acro's, especially millie's!!!!!
In the last 2 years i've battle zoa pox, red bugs, AEFW (that sucked!), too little nutrients, and clownfish that decided to be on a hit squad. I've beat it all but just can't get acro's to do well.

Thanks in advance!!!!!!!
Rusty
Atlanta Reefer










Hi there

I'll give you a few of my experiences and perhaps they relate to you!

You say your alk "crashed" to 6.4 dKH from 7.4 dKH, this is not a radical swing and your acro's may be upset with you but not so much as to cause STN, the higher value (7.4) is fine for a Zeo tank. For more stability I dose my alk and Ca every hour 24/7, you could try this especially with dosing pumps.

If you are running full zeo, I would check the flow through your reactor (~50-100 g/hour) too much flow can be a problem.

As your PO4 levels are very low, this should have added to your problems by starving your corals even more, but it seems you are counteracting this by feeding CV and AA, but use them as per the recommendations.

Perhaps stop the carbon for a month or drop the volume by 50% and see if this makes a difference.

I also found that not enough flow would contribute to basal STN! Perhaps what you think is enough is really not enough flow.

I would not wash the filter socks in anything other than water!

If your salinity is stable that should should not be a problem (especially with RB salt).

Your lights look OK to me, you would get overall bleaching if that was the case IMO.

If you have been battling pests, I would also look there to see if you still have any weakening the corals, I would not dip though as this might push them over the edge.

If your STN is spreading, the only thing that worked for me was to frag mercilessly above the affected part and let it heal again.

Finally, the Zeo forum would probably tell you to perform 2-3, 20% water changes over the course of a week, wouldn't hurt to try if you haven't already :)

Wishing you luck,
Tony
 
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Outdrsyguy1

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Thanks tony. They did recommend the water changes hehe. I did those with no changes in coral response.
I also tried lowering reactor flow by 50% but after a week of stn not slowing I upped it back to the 100g per hour. I'm confident the flow in the reactor is correct.
The flow in my tank might have been a little weak in spots but things still grew and didn't stn.
 
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Sorry. iPhone mid hit send early.
Things grew before but were super pale. Regardless. I've visited several great acro tanks and I'm sure the flow is good now.
I'll half the existing carbon or maybe just pull it. Not sure about the chemical warfare that might be going on so I'm a little worried about just pulling it altogether. I also have new filter socks that are unwashed. I'll rinse them in di/ro and drop them in tonight.
I think I'm okay with with the dosing as I do a couple minutes an hour at the 1.1ml per minute rate over the course of 6 or so hours. I also dose into beginning of sump and turn off skimmer during and for 10 minutes after dosing. I've met a lot of other successful reefers that dose like 20ml straight or even once every week or so.
 

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I would put the culprit at flow. I just experienced the same thing with a frag that I stuck down low to acclimate to my light and it started to STN.

Until the fish are pinned against the glass, there isn't too much flow. :)
 

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I dose Randy's 2-part, 24/7 and have never tried the BRS variant, but the goal is to keep all parameters as stable as possible.

That, coupled with really good flow should set you right. FWIW, my sand is constantly reshaping from the flow.

Also try to move your affected corals to an area with more flow, especially that green slimer!

Many large water changes over a week should show some improvement in coral health! With nothing to lose, how about 2 x 50% changes over a week, no change, then crank up the flow.

This is my green Dallas frag, from 2 inches in 3 months!


Cheers
 

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Wow, that's some amazing growth. You totally need to frag it and enter the frag grow out contest hehe!
I'm definitely going to have to pull out some lps if I go much more or I'm afraid I'll tear them in half lol
 

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Hey Rusty, Imo you need to simplify things greatly. Too many variables to consider. It really is not that difficult.
Why do you dose zeo? Not being a smart ash, just curious why you feel the need to stay on that dosing scheme. Is it to control your nutrients?
 
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All good, I dose zeo because I would have to disagree with you on how difficult it can be sometimes. I've probably seen 10+ reef tanks in person and every single one of them is run differently. I saw an amazing 75 gallon with HUGE beautiful acros and the guy does 10% WC every 2 weeks, doses some alk/calc once a week or so, and has a skimmer and refugium. No constant dosing, no gfo or carbon, just a skimmer and pumps. Tank was obviously 5+ years old. Also seen amazing tanks with the full gambit of reactors, UV sterilizer, etc.
I've tried to emulate several systems I know work well in both lighting and maintenance and none of it worked for my tank. I find the sheer number of variables makes it extremely difficult to know what to do. First it was probably lighting... replaced lights... then still wasn't successful and tried the gfo/carbon and started dosing elements regularly. Throw in a bout of zoa pox, red bugs, zoa eating nudi's, and aefw and you can imagine how challenging it could be. Then too little nutrients... maybe.... so I feed like crazy, colors get better (not great) then a HUGE algae bloom and I work on reducing nutrients and pulling massive amounts of algae and water changes. So I decide I need a more regimented method of nutrient control because I'm obviously having a hard time with nutrients. This whole process took almost 2 years. That's when I decided to go zeo, it was just a much more exact method which is what I need at this point. Once I've got a few years under my belt, or it doesn't work for me, i'll switch again if need be (probably go refugium with deep sand bed at this point). So yes, it is extremely simple for some people and it just works. Just hasn't been that way for me. And my parameters were dead on for 1 year+ and didn't move more than 10%.


Anyways, so now it seems pretty simple to me honestly, couple drops every night of something or another along with skimmer/socks once a week, then carbon once a month and zeolites once every 6 weeks. seems decent.
 

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Sorry to say but your corals do not look happy, most of them are on the way out!

Your Turbinaria looks bleached!

I would frag the one's with tissue loss mercilessly from here because, IMO, the STN will spread until a point where the coral is so stressed that it just RTNs.

I agree that some are very pale and need feeding.

It also looks to me like lack of flow is the culprit, perhaps reposition your pumps to create a very turbulent situation!
 
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Well i jacked up the flow. had 2 tunze 6105 with the wide flow attachment running up and down but one was at 50% or so. I put them both at 100% and aimed them at each other and varied the on/off time so they would line up sometimes and collide at a lot of other times. also added medium sized korellia and a jebao wp-25. I have another jebao wp-25 i'll add if i can figure out how to get it in there. I'll have to move some lps because they are getting beat down like a red headed step child.
The Turnbinaria you are referring to was bought as a meteor shower coral (typical deep green base with red polyps, not sure if turbinaria is scientific name or what, but didn't look like meteor shower when I googled it). I've had it a very long time, 1 year and 8 months (i log everything I buy in size and date, color). It did encrust on to the rock I had it but I moved the main frag where you see it now. I think it's actually pale from lack of nutrients over the last year and a half. It's sitting around 200 par there I think. I can check tomorrow but it's definitely not over 300, so I don't think it's bleached. I could be wrong, maybe I bleached it a year and a half ago, no idea :(
I tried fragging before but like you said, if flow was the culprit then the frag stood no chance still and they kept STN from the bottom up. If it doesn't turn around soon, i'll try fragging again with the increased flow and see if they make it.
 

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So IMO two things maybe three are causing the major issue. 1. All low nutrient 2. Lack of flow is a major killer to sps 3. Washing your socks with detergent absolute no no and possibly leaching into ur tank. I would do as others and myself stated. Frag stuff an inch above STN where you can and let heal before gluing fresh cut. IMO that's the only way at this point you have a chance at saving any of those corals. When they get to that point....they are all but lost. On a rare occasion one will survive but unlikely. Lastly find a style you want to run and stick with it, the more you change how you run your tank the more stress it adds. Most zeo tanks I see are super clear and healthy when done correct but are almost always lacking rich pigment. Also as others stated stability is the key if you can does alk mag and ca using doser it will be much more stable In longview run.

Also that is not a turbinara it is a meteor shower cythastrea
 

Squamosa

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The Turnbinaria you are referring to was bought as a meteor shower coral (typical deep green base with red polyps, not sure if turbinaria is scientific name or what, but didn't look like meteor shower when I googled it). I've had it a very long time, 1 year and 8 months (i log everything I buy in size and date, color). It did encrust on to the rock I had it but I moved the main frag where you see it now. I think it's actually pale from lack of nutrients over the last year and a half. It's sitting around 200 par there I think. I can check tomorrow but it's definitely not over 300, so I don't think it's bleached. I could be wrong, maybe I bleached it a year and a half ago, no idea :(

My bad :) it is a Cyphastrea, but a goner!
 

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