SPS corals looking ill

[madweazl]

My powerheads are synched up at close to maximum power and about a 3 second pulse. I've been thinking about adding more flow - maybe an Icecap Gyre.
Did you mean the Pads & Bio Balls are NOT helping? I have ceramic Bio Media and plastic Bio balls. Been thinking about a larger more up-to-date sump but I find the idea of plumbing a new sump intimidating. The Hanna ULR kit I can do.


I just got some Seachem Flourish Phosphorus and added about 12.5ml to my 90gal. What would I use to target feed them?


+1 on move slowly. Don't know what I was thinking when I just "flipped a switch" to change my LEDs. Hopefully I can bring those corals back.

Yes, sorry about the typo (fixed). I cant say for certain if they're making things worse or not, you'd have to experiment with that. In regard to adding phosphates, I'd hold off doing so until you get the Hanna checker as you could easily be "fixing" a problem that doesn't exist (and inadvertently creating another).

Which powerheads do you have?

 

[PeterG]

Yes, sorry about the typo (fixed). I cant say for certain if they're making things worse or not, you'd have to experiment with that. In regard to adding phosphates, I'd hold off doing so until you get the Hanna checker as you could easily be "fixing" a problem that doesn't exist (and inadvertently creating another).

Which powerheads do you have?

Powerheads are a pair of Tunze 6055 (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/tunze-turbelle-nanostream-6055-controllable.html)
too late to hold off adding PO4. - already added some. I'm sure everyone here knows more than I do , but there is also a wide variety of opinions on what the cause could be. So, yesterday, after hearing that my PO4 was low I ordered the Seachem product last night with next day air delivery, it came this AM and I cracked open the bottle and added it.
Will order the Hanna Checker today. To be clear I need the ULTRA LOW RANGE (# H1736) and not the Low Range (#H1713)?
This tank was originally a whim on my part. A friend was downsizing and asked if I wanted a free "fish tank" One year later and more $$$$ than I want to think about I still need/want so much more. I'm totally hooked.

 

[BedrockIOMC]

What would I use to target feed them?

you can use a turkey baster, syringe, or even something like this. Get some coral food and even some food like Reef Chili Coral Food will have something you can use to feed with. Just get food that is a powder and mix with tank water and get into what ever you are going to use to feed and go blow it all over the coral. Have your power heads off so it will stay on the coral as long as it can.

Red letters are links

 

[madweazl]

It's tough sifting through all the information that gets posted for sure. Yes on the HI736.

Edit: I would consider that low flow within the display if it's SPS dominant, even with both units at 100% (I have a pair of MP40WEs running at 100% on the 75g though they're in anti-sync).

 

[PeterG]

you can use a turkey baster, syringe, or even something like this. Get some coral food and even some food like Reef Chili Coral Food will have something you can use to feed with. Just get food that is a powder and mix with tank water and get into what ever you are going to use to feed and go blow it all over the coral. Have your power heads off so it will stay on the coral as long as it can.

Red letters are links

OK thanks, I've got Reef Chili on hand. Been broadcasting it but can easily target feed.

It's tough sifting through all the information that gets posted for sure. Yes on the HI736.

Edit: I would consider that low flow within the display if it's SPS dominant, even with both units at 100% (I have a pair of MP40WEs running at 100% on the 75g though they're in anti-sync).

Thanks, I thought I would be good with 2 Tunze 6055s. I do have them in anti-sync (they switch over every 2-3 seconds). Thinking of adding an Icecap Gyre (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1k-gyre-generation-pump-with-controller-1000-gph-icecap.html) Half the price of the Maxspect

 

[madweazl]

Oh, yea, that is quite low then (~16x turnover rate). A third Tunze may work well if you placed them all on the back wall and synced them.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

@PeterG, I see that your ammonia test was a typo, but you corrected it to <0.2 ppm. You say that you log it that way because you have a hard time reading the test kit results. Does that mean that you are getting a reading of some ammonia? You should be positive that you have 0 ppm ammonia in the tank. If you think you are reading some ammonia, that could be your issue. I would investigate the cause if that is the case. If you are 100% sure you have no ammonia in the tank, then disregard.

 

[PeterG]

@PeterG, I see that your ammonia test was a typo, but you corrected it to <0.2 ppm. You say that you log it that way because you have a hard time reading the test kit results. Does that mean that you are getting a reading of some ammonia? You should be positive that you have 0 ppm ammonia in the tank. If you think you are reading some ammonia, that could be your issue. I would investigate the cause if that is the case. If you are 100% sure you have no ammonia in the tank, then disregard.

To be honest I don't know for sure. The color is so close. My Ammonia badge always shows "safe". Think I need to try another brand of ammonia test kit.

 

[ycnibrc]

I would feed more flake than add the seachem phosphorus. Flake food will add phosphate to your tank plus your fish will eat them and their waste contribute to adding phosphate

 

[madweazl]

The probability of ammonia being present is extremely low.

 

[PeterG]

@PeterG, I see that your ammonia test was a typo, but you corrected it to <0.2 ppm. You say that you log it that way because you have a hard time reading the test kit results. Does that mean that you are getting a reading of some ammonia? You should be positive that you have 0 ppm ammonia in the tank. If you think you are reading some ammonia, that could be your issue. I would investigate the cause if that is the case. If you are 100% sure you have no ammonia in the tank, then disregard.

The probability of ammonia being present is extremely low.

OK, Had to be certain. Just took a sample of tank water and a sample of freshly made salt water and did side-by-side Red Sea ammonia tests. They look identical. What I was interpreting as <.2 is actually zero. So we can rule out ammonia as the cause.

 

[BedrockIOMC]

How things coming along?

 

[PeterG]

How things coming along?

Bedrock, Thanks for following up. I don’t see any change in the Monti; the Green Slimer may possibly show a bit of browning on what white or maybe a slight increase in the whitening. Not sure. Attached a couple of photos taken just now to compare with those above.

I followed your suggestion and fed them directly with Reef Chili and added some Seachem Flourish Phosphorus on Saturday. How often should I be feeding them the Reef Chili? Also have a coral growth stimulator by Seachem called FUEL but I’m a bit hesitant to add too many things at once.

Here’s the old & new photo side by side:

OLD:

NEW:

OLD:

NEW:

 

[BedrockIOMC]

Bedrock, Thanks for following up. I don’t see any change in the Monti; the Green Slimer may possibly show a bit of browning on what white or maybe a slight increase in the whitening. Not sure. Attached a couple of photos taken just now to compare with those above.

I followed your suggestion and fed them directly with Reef Chili and added some Seachem Flourish Phosphorus on Saturday. How often should I be feeding them the Reef Chili? Also have a coral growth stimulator by Seachem called FUEL but I’m a bit hesitant to add too many things at once.

Here’s the old & new photo side by side:

OLD:

NEW:

OLD:

NEW:

You can feed them about twice a week. Same thing with fuel. You can add the fuel with the food it won't bother it. Now if you have added any other kind of additive I wouldnt then but just the food and fuel your good. It does look like their close too what they were before.

 

[PeterG]

It does look like their close too what they were before.

Is that good? I'm figuring it will take some time for them to recover.
If it was going to get worse would I already see further deterioration?
What are signs of recovery? Will the white area regenerate or fall off?