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revhtree
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TJ's Reef
Valuable Member
Can you post a clear shot of inside structure of the stand for us, especially where and how the 2x6 span is connects or is supported. Structurally a 2x6 is more than adequate but needs to be supported for shear weight.
Cheers, Todd
Cheers, Todd
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danangelo
Well-Known Member
Thanks for responding
Heres the pics
The side
The front of the other side
the back..
I havent done anything im still trying to figure out how to go about supporting it with 2x6. .thanks Todd
Danny
Heres the pics
The side
The front of the other side
the back..
I havent done anything im still trying to figure out how to go about supporting it with 2x6. .thanks Todd
Danny
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danangelo
Well-Known Member
Thanks Rev for the bump..
What's the reason you want to use 2x6 over what you have?
a 40-44" span is easy for 2x6, and there are plenty of ways to join it to give you plenty of strength - from joist hangers to pocket holes w/glue - but if you remove the current braces, you will, as said above, need to account for shear forces.
a 40-44" span is easy for 2x6, and there are plenty of ways to join it to give you plenty of strength - from joist hangers to pocket holes w/glue - but if you remove the current braces, you will, as said above, need to account for shear forces.
I guess I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to.
Are you talking about the piece (looks like 2x3 or 2x4) behind the face frame?
Are you talking about cutting out the middle of the face frame so that it's just 1 big opening?
Can you draw an arrow or point to what you mean by "center brace"?
Are you talking about the piece (looks like 2x3 or 2x4) behind the face frame?
Are you talking about cutting out the middle of the face frame so that it's just 1 big opening?
Can you draw an arrow or point to what you mean by "center brace"?
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danangelo
Well-Known Member
ya the front center brace I want one big opening. .
right now it has 2x4 its a 48x30x20 125g
Its 125 gallons and its 48x30x20..the way they made the stand it doesnt have 2x4 on all sides one on the left corner doesnt have one
austinl
Active Member
I can't really tell by the pictures but from what I see I would say probably not, the reason is there doesn't seem like a lot of support to prevent racking if you remove the center.
Also your top spans are not truly on your upright corner pieces, from what I can see they are angled and only portions of the braces are supported as opposed to butt type joints.
Im a little but rushed or else I would post pics but look at my build and you will see how I built mine all square joints and no middle support with a 2x6 and secondary racking support in all corners.
Also your top spans are not truly on your upright corner pieces, from what I can see they are angled and only portions of the braces are supported as opposed to butt type joints.
Im a little but rushed or else I would post pics but look at my build and you will see how I built mine all square joints and no middle support with a 2x6 and secondary racking support in all corners.
Ok, I had a feeling that was what you wanted to do.
Couple of things.
First, when you cut that out, you'll likely need to re-square/plumb the doors (if you care) because you're going to lose the rigidity of that face frame. Not a big deal, and it may be totally fine, but just throwing it out there - it'll take a little time with the tank on top for things to re-settle to see if this will be necessary.
I think your best bet, based on what I can see, would be to remove the 2x3 (it looks like 2x3, not 2x4, am I correct) that's behind the face frame (the brace) without cutting the frame out (yet). Then install another length of 2x3 across the front span.
Use a miter saw to match the angle of the diagonal braces so that the front span fits snug and flush, and fasten it (use both glue and nails) to the diagonal braces and the corner supports.
Essentially, you'll have a triangle resting on the 3 supports (1 in rear, 2 in front corners) - with your ply on top.
Once that cross beam is installed, you can then cut out the face frame support piece.
2x6 isn't needed.
2x3 or 2x4 can support plenty of weight per linear foot if it's done correctly.
For 125g tank, you're talking about at most a 1200lb load. If you have with 3/8th ply on top (or 1/2 if you want to go overkill), you'll be totally fine with that setup.
Couple of things.
First, when you cut that out, you'll likely need to re-square/plumb the doors (if you care) because you're going to lose the rigidity of that face frame. Not a big deal, and it may be totally fine, but just throwing it out there - it'll take a little time with the tank on top for things to re-settle to see if this will be necessary.
I think your best bet, based on what I can see, would be to remove the 2x3 (it looks like 2x3, not 2x4, am I correct) that's behind the face frame (the brace) without cutting the frame out (yet). Then install another length of 2x3 across the front span.
Use a miter saw to match the angle of the diagonal braces so that the front span fits snug and flush, and fasten it (use both glue and nails) to the diagonal braces and the corner supports.
Essentially, you'll have a triangle resting on the 3 supports (1 in rear, 2 in front corners) - with your ply on top.
Once that cross beam is installed, you can then cut out the face frame support piece.
2x6 isn't needed.
2x3 or 2x4 can support plenty of weight per linear foot if it's done correctly.
For 125g tank, you're talking about at most a 1200lb load. If you have with 3/8th ply on top (or 1/2 if you want to go overkill), you'll be totally fine with that setup.
I did a quick drawing to be more clear...
Each corner has a 2x4 in it, and there's 1 2x4 in the middle of the back.
The 2x4 diagonal braces are shown along with the new piece you're looking to add - the 2x4 cross beam across the front.
If you wanted to beef it up, you could use 4x4s in the corners, but I think you'll be more than fine if you do it this way.
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danangelo
Well-Known Member
I like the way you built your stand wish u were close to help me build mine..
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danangelo
Well-Known Member
Theres a 2x4 in the back ..thanks for doing the drawing easier for me to understand im new to woodwork so it was like reading greek lol..the span would be the skin?..so I would put a 2x4 with angle cut to be flushed..my concern is being its not a complete frame the left side back doesnt have a 2x4 I would only have 4 post if I remove the center..
I did a quick drawing to be more clear...
Each corner has a 2x4 in it, and there's 1 2x4 in the middle of the back.
The 2x4 diagonal braces are shown along with the new piece you're looking to add - the 2x4 cross beam across the front.
If you wanted to beef it up, you could use 4x4s in the corners, but I think you'll be more than fine if you do it this way.
Add another support in the corner that's missing one - 1 2x4 should be enough to make the cross beam and a new corner support.
All you're going to do is cut the piece out of the middle (looks to be about 2') and butt the cross beam up against the inside of the face frame. You should not be able to see the cross beam when it's installed.
In case it's not clear, you will need to remove the top of the cabinet in order to slide in the new cross beam.
All you're going to do is cut the piece out of the middle (looks to be about 2') and butt the cross beam up against the inside of the face frame. You should not be able to see the cross beam when it's installed.
In case it's not clear, you will need to remove the top of the cabinet in order to slide in the new cross beam.
Add another support in the corner that's missing one - 1 2x4 should be enough to make the cross beam and a new corner support.<br><br>All you're going to do is cut the piece out of the middle (looks to be about 2') and butt the cross beam up against the inside of the face frame. You should not be able to see the cross beam when it's installed.<br><br>In case it's not clear, you will need to remove the top of the cabinet in order to slide in the new cross beam.<br><br><br><img src="https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=142795&stc=1" attachmentid="142795" alt="" id="vbattach_142795" class="previewthumb"><img src="https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=142796&stc=1" attachmentid="142796" alt="" id="vbattach_142796" class="previewthumb"><br><br><br>
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danangelo
Well-Known Member
Thank you for a detailed instructions. .I appreciate it..once I get help removing the tank I will start on modifying the stand..I will post progress hereAdd another support in the corner that's missing one - 1 2x4 should be enough to make the cross beam and a new corner support.
All you're going to do is cut the piece out of the middle (looks to be about 2') and butt the cross beam up against the inside of the face frame. You should not be able to see the cross beam when it's installed.
In case it's not clear, you will need to remove the top of the cabinet in order to slide in the new cross beam.
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danangelo
Well-Known Member
Image on this one didnt show up..
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