Still Trying to Help a Torch

[mythesis]

So even if I mix at 1.026, going to need to dose Mag for a little bit it looks like.

Suggestions?

 

[kevgib67]

 

[mythesis]

Or should I just increase the mix to 1.026 and do some 10-20 gal (90 gal tank + sump) changes every week to bring it up slowly?

 

[Shirak]

So even if I mix at 1.026, going to need to dose Mag for a little bit it looks like.

Suggestions?

You can. Maybe a different salt when you use up that one? For now you can use magnesium sulfate from the drug store (epsom salt) Can look at reef calculator to figure out how much to dose to bring it up.

You might want to look into your par too. Two xr15 on a 90g seems insufficient. I run 3 hydra 32 on a 55g. Placement of the corals, distance to the water with the lights etc would make a difference. Torches should be around 150par or higher IMO

 

[kevgib67]

Or should I just increase the mix to 1.026 and do some 10-20 gal (90 gal tank + sump) changes every week to bring it up slowly?

You could give it a go, wouldn’t hurt but if your sallt is mixing that low it probably won’t help. If your salt was mixing higher it would help.

 

[Shirak]

Or should I just increase the mix to 1.026 and do some 10-20 gal (90 gal tank + sump) changes every week to bring it up slowly?

I would just do water changes at 1.026. It's not a huge change so going up with water changes is fine or even if you went higher with a couple to go up faster 1.025 to 1.026 wouldn't hurt anything.

 

[mythesis]

just did a 5 gal mix up to 1.026....still got only 1200 Mg

 

[Shirak]

just did a 5 gal mix up to 1.026....still got only 1200 Mg

Might be worth mixing up a little test solution for the refractometer just to be certain. I suspect though that it is the test kit and or the salt.

For the refractometer check:
3.65 grams of sodium chloride in 96.35 grams (mL) of purified fresh water. That will read 35ppt on the refractometer. Make sure you use table salt and not reef salt.

If refractometer checks out then just dose 100ppm Mg for your water volume. You can bump Mg 100ppm/day


I am still leaning towards par and Nitrate/nutrition though being the culprit

 

[mythesis]

Might be worth mixing up a little test solution for the refractometer just to be certain. I suspect though that it is the test kit and or the salt.

For the refractometer check:
3.65 grams of sodium chloride in 96.35 grams (mL) of purified fresh water. That will read 35ppt on the refractometer. Make sure you use table salt and not reef salt.

If refractometer checks out then just dose 100ppm Mg for your water volume. You can bump Mg 100ppm/day


I am still leaning towards par and Nitrate/nutrition though being the culprit

Lol, my kitchen scale doesn't go to 0.01g.

 

[mythesis]

Also, note Nitrates had been 10 ish for a while.

 

[kevgib67]

Also, note Nitrates had been 10 ish for a while.

Perhaps it’s time to start dosing, a lot of products, I use Fritz. Before you do that, take a water sample to your lfs and have them check it. If it’s the same start dosing to bring it up.

 

[Shirak]

Also, note Nitrates had been 10 ish for a while.

10ish is kinda low IMO for LPS unless they are catching food to eat 2 or 3 times a week.

There are ways to estimate the table salt.

6.2 grams per teaspoon

 

[Shirak]

1 level tsp table salt with 163.66ml (grams) distilled water = 35ppt salinity

I think if you were at 1tsp salt and 164ml of water it would be just a hair under 35ppt which would be close enough to know if the refractometer is correct

 

[mythesis]

Perhaps it’s time to start dosing, a lot of products, I use Fritz. Before you do that, take a water sample to your lfs and have them check it. If it’s the same start dosing to bring it up.

It's been a few months since I've done that, but they had been matching salinity and nitrate/calcium reasonably well previously.

 

[kevgib67]

It's been a few months since I've done that, but they had been matching salinity and nitrate/calcium reasonably well previously.

I would have them check your magnesium.

 

[mythesis]

I would have them check your magnesium.

I don't think the close one has a Magnesium tester. Will try when I go to the farther one.

Would low Mag affect chaeto growth? I tried to start some and while it gets tons of light and tumbles freely, it's still about the same size almost 2 months later.

 

[kevgib67]

I don't think the close one has a Magnesium tester. Will try when I go to the farther one.

Would low Mag affect chaeto growth? I tried to start some and while it gets tons of light and tumbles freely, it's still about the same size almost 2 months later. I can’t help with that, I’ve never had chaeto, sorry.

 

[Shirak]

Magnesium on the low side is not the answer to fix all your troubles. Yes it would be better if it was higher.

Earlier I asked about your lights and I will reiterate 2- xr15 on a 90g tank is way way too little. For a tank that size you need at least 4 preferably 6. You said the coral was likely getting 90par. Is that an actual measurement? I would be surprised if it was even close to that unless it was directly under one of the xr15's. In the photos some of your zoas are very elongated vertically trying to reach more light. The Duncan and green hammer are also stretching upwards like the torch.

You need to take a much closer look at your lighting and par levels and fix the low nitrate issue. The reason your phosphate is high is there is not enough nitrate and low par are not allowing photosynthesis in the corals and algae on the rock to grow and use the phosphates.

Can you take a full tank picture so we can see the whole thing with lights etc?

Also still wondering what you used for gravel on the bottom?

 

[mythesis]

Magnesium on the low side is not the answer to fix all your troubles. Yes it would be better if it was higher.

Earlier I asked about your lights and I will reiterate 2- xr15 on a 90g tank is way way too little. For a tank that size you need at least 4 preferably 6. You said the coral was likely getting 90par. Is that an actual measurement? I would be surprised if it was even close to that unless it was directly under one of the xr15's. In the photos some of your zoas are very elongated vertically trying to reach more light. The Duncan and green hammer are also stretching upwards like the torch.

You need to take a much closer look at your lighting and par levels and fix the low nitrate issue. The reason your phosphate is high is there is not enough nitrate and low par are not allowing photosynthesis in the corals and algae on the rock to grow and use the phosphates.

Can you take a full tank picture so we can see the whole thing with lights etc?

Also still wondering what you used for gravel on the bottom?

Yes, I agree light is likely a little low. I had it measured by LFS and at the time I was running 70%, with intent to go to 85% over 30 days.

It happened that my temps dropped due to weather change and not having heater set up correctly right when acclimation period was over, which kicked off the "grumpy" corals. I feared it was too quick of a light change, and went back to sub 70 and started over with a longer (40 day) acclimation to get to 80 --- which will be over this week.

I think I will keep going to 85% if not higher once this is done. But, this is what the store measured for both 70 & 85%:


For sand we used the "crushed aragonite" for a larger granule.

 

[Shirak]

Yes, I agree light is likely a little low. I had it measured by LFS and at the time I was running 70%, with intent to go to 85% over 30 days.

It happened that my temps dropped due to weather change and not having heater set up correctly right when acclimation period was over, which kicked off the "grumpy" corals. I feared it was too quick of a light change, and went back to sub 70 and started over with a longer (40 day) acclimation to get to 80 --- which will be over this week.

I think I will keep going to 85% if not higher once this is done. But, this is what the store measured for both 70 & 85%:


For sand we used the "crushed aragonite" for a larger granule.

Thanks for the pics! Are you able to vacuum the aragonite? Looks like there is algae etc on the surface. The coarser size will let detritus down deeper into the bed and it will need cleaning.

Par numbers are kinda what I expected based on the size of the tank. They have them pretty close to the water which is not helping spread and you can see it in the numbers as you move off to the side from the center of the lights. The front to back depth is also going to have some wild numbers as the lights are not really long enough to provide even coverage front to back. If you are going to use a shorter light like the XR15 they should be oriented with the length of the tank and have 3 across the width towards the back and 3 across the width towards the front. Or go with a longer light like the xr30 and have at least 3 preferably 4 oriented front to back.

UNLESS.... you want to keep soft corals with just a few LPS. Then you are ok with what you have.

All that said you need more light. Your corals are stretching for light.

I also notice the leather in the corner? Are you running some carbon? They can release compounds which upset the stony corals.

I don't know how cold the tank got but even room temperature would not be an issue long term IMO. I have had plenty of corals get shipped and arrive 55-60 degrees F and they are fine in a day.

If it were my tank.. Get the lights powered up. Corals don't need 40 days to acclimate to 30 par. You know when it's too bright on the LPS as they will be all scrunched up inside the top of the skeleton almost instantly. 120 par on them minimum! 7 day acclimation is plenty.

Nitrates!!! Feed more Get your nitrates up 20ppm at least. Target feed the LPS a couple times a week with mysis, lps pellets.. something more than powder. Or make a thick paste out of powdered food and squirt directly on them.

Keep us posted!