Strange zoas problems

[littlebigreef]

Why do you assume i didn't treat them? Not everyone is living in the us and has the same brands available, but i went through dips of peroxide, iodine and coral rx. Also full tank treatments of Cyano solution (antibiotika), DinoX and Reefhd Flux.
The problem is, of you are patient like me and don't start the treatment instantly the zoa colonies look slightly unhappy, they are done for.
Just look how many threads are dealing with zoa problems. The overall majority of them never recover.

OP had low nutrient issues which can start the zoa degeneration on its own or make them susceptible for other diseases. In the end we never know.

I assumed you didn’t treat them (or were unable) because you said ‘ Right now a bacterial infection is destroying several of my zoa colonies and there is nothing i can do.’

In reality it seems like you’ve tried a bunch of things. Totally understand the same products are not available everywhere.

I’m not patient when I start to see a zoa looking off. I have a large collection so I’m usually dipping a few things week to week. Immediate action has saved stuff time and again. I’ve got a pretty good track record of turning stuff around.

There are a lot of threads about treating maladies but not lots of great pics for documentation. Still, it’s important people 1) research and 2) ask questions. If even 1/3 recover that’s not bad.

I agree the phosphate is lower than desired. I’m not going to attribute all of OP’s issues to that. However, it is just part of keeping zoas that some strains will randomly melt.

 

[Tavero]

I assumed you didn’t treat them (or were unable) because you said ‘ Right now a bacterial infection is destroying several of my zoa colonies and there is nothing i can do.’

In reality it seems like you’ve tried a bunch of things. Totally understand the same products are not available everywhere.

I’m not patient when I start to see a zoa looking off. I have a large collection so I’m usually dipping a few things week to week. Immediate action has saved stuff time and again. I’ve got a pretty good track record of turning stuff around.

There are a lot of threads about treating maladies but not lots of great pics for documentation. Still, it’s important people 1) research and 2) ask questions. If even 1/3 recover that’s not bad.

I agree the phosphate is lower than desired. I’m not going to attribute all of OP’s issues to that. However, it is just part of keeping zoas that some strains will randomly melt.

Well, true. But its usually the "experts" here in the forum that are recommending to be patient and just wait if the water parameters are fine.
I have also asked for help in a thead but never got any useful answers how to save my zoas. Can you post more about maladies. That's the first time i have heard of it.
I don't think this is going off topic because it may also help Koh23 and his zoa problem.

 

[Koh23]

No problem, every information is helpful.

I talked to reefer from which tank zoas originated, and he is also clueless why this happens. Water parameters are almost identical, he have weaker light, but, it this is problem with new frags, then i can explain it by too much light on my side, but problem occurs months after frag is in tank....

 

[JDCagley]

I tought that, but, wouldnt that affect all corals, and all zoas, not just some?

Also i feed several times per day, chaeto grows like crazy, maybe she take all available po4, maybe cut down lighting schedule for chaeto?

No available product here to raise po4....

Can you buy from Amazon there? IF so try this

I have used this to raise PO4 and it works well - too well if you are not careful. There is more than enough here in 2 bottles to last a very long time - maybe share with a friend or try to fond a single bottle version. Also, use http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/calculator.htm <that calculator and select potassium phosphate (sodium version is not there and was told this is 'close' enough to raise PO4 - I have used it and it works.) I dissolved 5g in 1000ml which created a 0.05ppm solution for 10ml of dosing liquid.

Hope that helps

 

[Pkunk35]

OP, I have the same issue and feel as if @littlebigreef is def speaking truth here. I’ve had to either treat zoas with lugols dip, cipro (not sure if this actually helped), or move tanks (lighting) to sometimes help my dying zoa colonies that start out doing very well (I have not tried chemiclean on zoas yet). I have definitely lost more than a few very nice ones with thriving colonies surrounding it. Def part of the zoa game and frustrating for sure. I’d start with a lugols dip personally, it’s helped more than several of my frags open up from my viewpoint. Keep reefin man.

 

[Koh23]

Thanx, real problem is shipping, either seller dont ship, or shipping cost is absurd.

I dose live phyto, that raises po4 slightly, from <0.02 to slightly color change, but still below lets say 0.5.

I add 200ml of phyto, kinda affraid to add more.....

Lugols, that is iodine, basicaly? If yes, i tried several times.... No help, but i strongly suspect that this problem is light related.

 

[Pkunk35]

Thanx, real problem is shipping, either seller dont ship, or shipping cost is absurd.

I dose live phyto, that raises po4 slightly, from <0.02 to slightly color change, but still below lets say 0.5.

I add 200ml of phyto, kinda affraid to add more.....

Lugols, that is iodine, basicaly? If yes, i tried several times.... No help, but i strongly suspect that this problem is light related.

lugols is specifically sold as lugols as it is a concentrated iodine (or iodide?), usually meant for actually cleaning infections i thought, I’m generous with it when dipping in it, going over recommended dipping amounts when it comes to zoanthid.

personally don’t think phyto will help, I dose a ton and the zoas I don’t think eat it or doesn’t help them not melt. If trying to feed I would try very fine particulate matter. If trying to raise phos try dosing phosphate in some form or ground up fresh seafood (please watch your nutrients if doing this)

 

[Tavero]

Thanx, real problem is shipping, either seller dont ship, or shipping cost is absurd.

I dose live phyto, that raises po4 slightly, from <0.02 to slightly color change, but still below lets say 0.5.

I add 200ml of phyto, kinda affraid to add more.....

Lugols, that is iodine, basicaly? If yes, i tried several times.... No help, but i strongly suspect that this problem is light related.

If you are still looking for a phosphate source you can try aluminium
free baking powder. There are some brands that only contain a mix of sodiumhydogen carbonate and sodiumhydrogen phosphate. You just need to check the concentration with a phosphate test.
But I don't think the zoas are unhappy due to nutrient deficiency if you can measure 0.02mg/l though.

 

[Koh23]

I already feed with made food, from various marine fish, shrimps, mussel etc.....

In next few days i will get some new zoa frags, so i will see...

As for lugols, we have same thing here, at least i think its the same or at least very close - betadine....

 

[littlebigreef]

Well, true. But its usually the "experts" here in the forum that are recommending to be patient and just wait if the water parameters are fine.
I have also asked for help in a thead but never got any useful answers how to save my zoas. Can you post more about maladies. That's the first time i have heard of it.
I don't think this is going off topic because it may also help Koh23 and his zoa problem.

The r2r zoa forum is fairly transient in nature (over the years) with some people parroting old/out dated info, monopolizing threads to drive up ratings, and/or an unending sea of IDs.

I'd suggest doing some research as there are some really useful threads on the treatment of zoas in the forum... they're just buried under a lot of ID requests. More narrowly directed questions will always get better answers than, 'here's my parameters.'

@Pkunk35 for the win with the lugol's. Lugol's is a baseline, its the simplest and best starting place for treating all corals.

@Koh23 a quick google search shows that they're similar but chemically distinct. I haven't worked with betadine, I'd be interested to hear your results.

 

[Koh23]

Well, nothing to write about, really....

I mean, using betadine didnt kill or hurt any coral so far, i used it as preventive dip, or last chance dip..... Did it help, really cannot say, u believe it is at some degree, but, no proof of that.

For some reason, we have very strict rules about selling or buying "chemicals", so simple things that are sold on amazon, ebay, etc, are impossible to buy localy, pharmacies or "health food stores" are not allowed to sell it, big dealers are, but they not interested in selling small quantities to personal buyer. Even if you find someone that can legaly buy stuff from big companies, they cannot resell it to you, or minimum order is too large for them to buy. If i need 100grams of something, nobody is willing to buy 10kg with own money and loose 90% of money because they dont need the rest, they cannot sell it to someone else.

Totaly idiotic, for buying simple hydrogen peroxide they look at you like u are terrorist

 

[Koh23]

Ok, since i will be geting myself some new frags of zoas, i tought that i could experiment a bit on these....

And i come to conclusion, probably totaly wrong, but i really like to hear your opinion....

Normaly open zoas that strech = they need more light.

Closed or barely open zoas that strech = too much light.

Of course, light is only one from many parameters than can affect zoas, but, its a starting place.....

So, what do you think, is it possible or totaly insane observation?