Stuck Carbon Doser Regulator Repair

[stephj03]

Im not sure if anyone else has had this happen, but I thought I'd share in case helpful.

I had been using a CaRx on my display for a few years and then had a crash that wiped out most of my SPS.

At the time, I was using an old school Carbon Doser (black box) with the bubble counter screen.

The regulator was connected to my apex and I was using a master flex to feed the reactor. I simply turned that outlet off and turned off the master flex and carried in with the mourning process.

After a while I began to restock slowly and my consumption couldn't justify a CaRx so I setup AFR in a doser. I can't across a deal on a few tubs of AFR and decided to switch over to CaRX whenever I ran out.

That turned into about 2yrs, at which point I was dosing about 100ml/dy.

I turned the Carbon Doser and Masterflex back on thinking I'd pick up where I left off, but heard no clicking from the reg even though the red indicator light was firing at the rate I set the reg to.

Pressure also appeared normal and stable on both gauges.

So I pulled the reg.

 

[stephj03]

There's no service access so I hacked open the back of the black box with a Dremel.

There's a video explaining in a similar repair on YouTube by the guy on R2R that fixes a lot of the EB832 and Radion issues.

The components in the box are

A. A Precision Timer Co recycle timer with a .1sec on time, and a .1-10sec off time. This timer is wired up to a potentiometer that you turn to set the interval between bubbles, and component B (see below). This is the black box facing down in the picture.

B. A clippard mouse valve. This is the yellow rubber/metal valve on the left side of the picture.

 

[stephj03]

I'm both my case and the video, the lack of noise was due to the mouse valve not firing.

This could be due to damage to the recycle timer, or an issue with the valve.

Since the timer is sealed pretty well, an issue the the valve is more likely.

I had originally intended to replace the valve as shown in the video, which is super simple, but I only saw one part number on the valve in my reg and couldn't find it in a quick search.

So I decided to pull the valve.

To do this, you unscrew the nipple on the outside of the box using a wrench on the internal facing fitting and a wrench on the nipple sticking out of the box.

 

[stephj03]

The valve can be disassembled but unscrewing the locking ring in the middle of the valve.

 

[stephj03]

Once opened, I noticed mine was corroded from exposure to saltwater similar to the one in the online video.

I initially thought there was a pin that actuated from the yellow side to seal the valve, but on further inspection, I noticed there is actually a brass diaphragm. This was the part that has corroded, sealing it to one side.

I used a Q-tip to put some acid on the diaphragm and after a few min was able to remove.

I then let the diaphragm sit fully submerged in acid for a few more minutes which cleaned it up nicely.

From there I reassembled and supplies power and heard clicking at each time the red indicator light fired.

The mouse valve is now unstuck and working again.

I reassembled the unit and put back into service. Hth.

 

[stephj03]

For reference, it looks as though the way the mouse valve works is via an electro magnet that attracts or repels a magnet in the center of the diaphragm, compressing it against the side of the valve with the outflow port and effectively sealing it off.

 

[oreo54]

Once opened, I noticed mine was corroded from exposure to saltwater similar to the one in the online video.

I initially thought there was a pin that actuated from the yellow side to seal the valve, but on further inspection, I noticed there is actually a brass diaphragm. This was the part that has corroded, sealing it to one side.

I used a Q-tip to put some acid on the diaphragm and after a few min was able to remove.

I then let the diaphragm sit fully submerged in acid for a few more minutes which cleaned it up nicely.

From there I reassembled and supplies power and heard clicking at each time the red indicator light fired.

The mouse valve is now unstuck and working again.

I reassembled the unit and put back into service. Hth.

Interesting .. most have found that reassemble of the Clippard is trickier than it looks.
As the " go to" solenoid for planted freshwater tanks they've been played with a bit.

Thread has a likely replacement part number. Post #21

Micro solenoids for CO2 regulators

http://www.clippard.com/part/EV-2-12-H 12V, normally closed two port 25psi standard seals with the wire leads

forums.reefcentral.com

 

[stephj03]

Thank you for this link, I couldnt quite tell from the markings on the valve in the reg what the clippard model number was.

I didn't think to check in the planted tank community, but it makes a lot of sense.

There really wasn't a whole lot to rebuilding the valve though. I know there are o rings here and there but I didn't really have to mess with them. Acid washing of the metal diaphragm was sufficient in my case.