Stupid Question - what is T5 / MH lighting?

[ilikefish69]

This hobby has so many acronyms often times I find myself confused. I know what LED lights are, as those are the ones I purchased. I see people who run "hybrid" set ups with their lights, LED and T5 or MH. I know T5 are the long white bulbs and MH is metal hallide (I think of chicken coop lights), but that's about as far as the knowledge goes for me.

What creates the interest in someone wanting to run a hybrid set up, vs. all LED, vs. all T5/MH?

Again, I know it's a stupid question, but that's where we have to start sometimes and I can continue research from there. lol.

 

[\m/reefsnmetal\m/]

This hobby has so many acronyms often times I find myself confused. I know what LED lights are, as those are the ones I purchased. I see people who run "hybrid" set ups with their lights, LED and T5 or MH. I know T5 are the long white bulbs and MH is metal hallide (I think of chicken coop lights), but that's about as far as the knowledge goes for me.

What creates the interest in someone wanting to run a hybrid set up, vs. all LED, vs. all T5/MH?

Again, I know it's a stupid question, but that's where we have to start sometimes and I can continue research from there. lol.

The factors people consider when choosing lighting pertain to par/brightness, appearance, heat output/electric costs, as well as the cost to replace bulbs. Each type of lighting has its own pros and cons. I use T5's for brightness and LEDs to ramp up and down to simulate the sunrise/sunset.

 

[fish farmer]

If you have been around as long as I have and run Metal Halides...it's like a tiny sun over your reef tank, glitter lines like you are snorkeling. I supplemented with PC(power compact actinics). I would do something similar if they didn't run so hot and had the space over my tank.

I recently added T5's to supplement my old BuildMyLED 14,000K fixture which still works. I can adjust output, but not color(other than swapping T5's), works for me until it doesn't work for me and then I'll look into all LED possibly.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

not a stupid question at all, it takes a lot of reading to understand lighting, there are dozens of articles on the subject explaining the differences and similarities and the pros and cons. Its a very important and very complicated subject.

 

[ilikefish69]

Would adding some T5 lights to an all blue spectrum LED set up fix the “black light” look? It looks like a lazer tag area by my tank, my orange shirt glows in the dark

 

[shakacuz]

Would adding some T5 lights to an all blue spectrum LED set up fix the “black light” look? It looks like a lazer tag area by my tank, my orange shirt glows in the dark

depending what t5 bulb you get, it will make it look more pleasing to look at and be around. usually people with hybrid fixtures do one of the following: run more daylight oriented t5 bulbs, and a more blue spectrum LED lighting, or more blue/actinic t5 bulbs, and a more white spectrum LED lighting for a good balance.

 

[rtparty]

BRS has their 52 weeks of reefing series. Arond episode 20 there are 3 episodes talking about each type of lighting. That will give you more information than we could ever type out.

There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers. Ask away!

 

[Crustaceon]

People like to mix and match things in this hobby because they think the more complexity they add to their system, the better it'll do. I've seen PLENTY of amazing tanks that JUST run Radions...or T5...or Halides. Lighting isn't the most important thing in this hobby. It's appropriate and stable water parameters.

 

[rtparty]

People like to mix and match things in this hobby because they think the more complexity they add to their system, the better it'll do. I've seen PLENTY of amazing tanks that JUST run Radions...or T5...or Halides. Lighting isn't the most important thing in this hobby. It's appropriate and stable water parameters.

Quite the blanket statement. I've never seen anyone say, "I'm looking to add more complexity and make this hobby harder."

Many of us understand the advantages of multiple lighting technologies. Want that fun blue pop once in a while? You'll need LED. Need truly diffused light to fill the tank? T5s are still best at this. Want a halide look and halide spectrum? Only halides provide this.

It's not adding complexity. It's using the right tool for the job.

 

[ilikefish69]

BRS has their 52 weeks of reefing series. Arond episode 20 there are 3 episodes talking about each type of lighting. That will give you more information than we could ever type out.

There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers. Ask away!

Yesssssssssss this is exactly what I am looking for. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ilikefish69]

People like to mix and match things in this hobby because they think the more complexity they add to their system, the better it'll do. I've seen PLENTY of amazing tanks that JUST run Radions...or T5...or Halides. Lighting isn't the most important thing in this hobby. It's appropriate and stable water parameters.

Other than my salinity mishap the other week when doing a WC, my parameters are in check. Keeping minimal livestock has been helping. Very wary to put too much life in the tank before I am sure that what I have is ready to support it.. I am thinking I might want to add a couple T5 bulbs to provide the STRONG LIGHT and then leave these LED's to make stuff look good.

 

[Dkmoo]

The "character" of the spectrum in LED light is different from T5/MH. Not all "par" are created equal.

T5 and MH offer not only broad spectrum, but "fuller" spectrum, in their lights than LED. "Fuller" meaning it covers every frequency of light within the spectrum it offers. Even say you get a "blue" T5, the blue that comes out of it covers all the frequency within that blue spectrum.

LED, on the other hand (at least the old school LEDs), emits at a very specific frequency. Even the "broad-spectrum" lights are more just a mix of individually specific frequency lights in red, blue. Green. Purple, etc. The LED photons, are more like tiny lasers

Think of it as watering your plant, even if you water the same volume of water (PAR), T5/MH is like a wide gentle spray, LED is like a thin strand of high pressure nozzle

People use hybrid setups for aesthetic. Usually T5/MH provides the general "fill light" for coral growth. LED is then added to provide those specific spectrum that the coral florescent proteins react the most actively against (usually blue/violet) to give that crazy "pop" in color for the tank

Having said ALL of that, the new generation of LEDs have come a long way from those early "tiny lasers". With the aid of built-in diffusers and other new LED techs, these newer lights are now very comparable to the old T5/MH in terms of broad/full spectrum while maintaining that "pop". Its also more energy efficient that t5/mh.

I used to run hybrid, now I'm 100% LED. I run an orphek icon.

 

[ilikefish69]

Think of it as watering your plant, even if you water the same volume of water (PAR), T5/MH is like a wide gentle spray, LED is like a thin strand of high pressure nozzle

This is the example that really connected the dots for me. Are we able to visually see where the LED is not providing as much spread? I am just thinking about what the bottom of my tank looks like - I don't see "dark" or "bright" spots, it seems like the light is pretty spread out.

I've got two 48" orphek or3 bars, worried I have a great supply of a very small chunk of the spectrum I need to supply.

When using a T5 light, you purchase the hood that they fit in to, and then purchase the bulbs separately?

How does the Icon do in terms of spread? I know it's basically a rectangular version of the or3 bars, of course a little bit more heavy duty.

 

[MtnDewMan]

depending what t5 bulb you get, it will make it look more pleasing to look at and be around. usually people with hybrid fixtures do one of the following: run more daylight oriented t5 bulbs, and a more blue spectrum LED lighting, or more blue/actinic t5 bulbs, and a more white spectrum LED lighting for a good balance.

That's what I do, I run an XR15 G6 Pro and run it on the fuller spectrum side and supplement with T5s using actinic and blue+ bulbs to get that old school MH/VHO look to the tank. I use the aquatic life hybrid fixture.

 

[Crustaceon]

Quite the blanket statement. I've never seen anyone say, "I'm looking to add more complexity and make this hobby harder."

Many of us understand the advantages of multiple lighting technologies. Want that fun blue pop once in a while? You'll need LED. Need truly diffused light to fill the tank? T5s are still best at this. Want a halide look and halide spectrum? Only halides provide this.

It's not adding complexity. It's using the right tool for the job.

I don't think people have that intention. I think they have the expectation that they need that level of complexity, when in reality, they probably don't. I personally don't think anyone NEEDS the best equipment, or the best spectral coverage or whatever. A lot of this hobby focuses on perceived value, theory and tank appearance rather than focusing on the actual health of the tank and proven equipment, methods which isn't as interesting.

 

[MtnDewMan]

This is the example that really connected the dots for me. Are we able to visually see where the LED is not providing as much spread? I am just thinking about what the bottom of my tank looks like - I don't see "dark" or "bright" spots, it seems like the light is pretty spread out.

I've got two 48" orphek or3 bars, worried I have a great supply of a very small chunk of the spectrum I need to supply.

When using a T5 light, you purchase the hood that they fit in to, and then purchase the bulbs separately?

How does the Icon do in terms of spread? I know it's basically a rectangular version of the or3 bars, of course a little bit more heavy duty.

Aquatic Life makes a fixture that hangs over the tank that you install your LED into, and then the T5 bulbs are installed around it. Makes for a nice spread overall in the tank.

Aquatic Life G2 T5 HO Hybrid 4-Lamp Mounting System Fixture, Black 24-Inch

Description Aquatic Life G2 T5 HO Hybrid 4-Lamp Mounting System Fixtures, Black. Now includes our Decor Endplates! Available in 24", 36", 48" & 61" lengths for 18-24" wide (front to back) aquariums. Universal mounts included for EcoTech Radion (TM) and AI Hydra & AI Prime (TM) LED Fixtures...

aquaticlife.com

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

This is the example that really connected the dots for me. Are we able to visually see where the LED is not providing as much spread? I am just thinking about what the bottom of my tank looks like - I don't see "dark" or "bright" spots, it seems like the light is pretty spread out.

I've got two 48" orphek or3 bars, worried I have a great supply of a very small chunk of the spectrum I need to supply.

When using a T5 light, you purchase the hood that they fit in to, and then purchase the bulbs separately?

How does the Icon do in terms of spread? I know it's basically a rectangular version of the or3 bars, of course a little bit more heavy duty.

I'm not sure about the brand your asking about, but a lot of companies have PAR charts on their websites that show what their lights provide at different depths, spacing, etc. You might try researching from that angle.

 

[ilikefish69]

I'm not sure about the brand your asking about, but a lot of companies have PAR charts on their websites that show what their lights provide at different depths, spacing, etc. You might try researching from that angle.

Actually Orphek found my post awhile back and provided me with their PAR charts. Pretty legit. It was however a little difficult to comprehend..

I run my lights 12" over the water. I believe the 0/15/30 cm is the distance front to back from the light, and then again from left to right. So with a 75g, it's 18" front to back so I would be looking at the top chart, and my numbers would be between the 30/15 cm marks.

 

[Enderg60]

In the long long ago reef lighting was florescent bulbs. Not T5 but old things you see in run down hallways. Then someone realized street lights (metal halides) put out more light and grew stuff better. Then bulbs got cool colors like actinics and all was well for many years.

Then in the mildly long ago came high power florescent bulbs called power compact bulbs (these are like the curly house bulbs), and shortly after T5's hit the market. For fish or softies you would use PC's or T5's. For SPS you had halides with PC's or T5 for supplemental blue.

Then came LED's and everything else has mostly been forgotten, resigned to the memories of the old.

 

[Dkmoo]

This is the example that really connected the dots for me. Are we able to visually see where the LED is not providing as much spread? I am just thinking about what the bottom of my tank looks like - I don't see "dark" or "bright" spots, it seems like the light is pretty spread out.

I've got two 48" orphek or3 bars, worried I have a great supply of a very small chunk of the spectrum I need to supply.

When using a T5 light, you purchase the hood that they fit in to, and then purchase the bulbs separately?

How does the Icon do in terms of spread? I know it's basically a rectangular version of the or3 bars, of course a little bit more heavy duty.

I wouldn't worry about it, orpheks spread them pretty good. The telltale sign of the old narrow LED is the "discoball" effect you seem at the bottom.. the orphek website, for what its worth, also mentioned the spectrum as one of their strengths/selling points.

I really like the Icon, its fits pretty well on top of my jbj aio65. Just 1 gives really good spread with plenty of par and the right spectrums, and provides that clean look without the messy 5-6 wires that comes from having 5-6 different lights