sump design what do you think

  • Thread starter Thread starter ToXIc
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

ToXIc

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
4,002
Reaction score
66
Location
TN
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
what you think guys?

what i need to know is if the filter area will work. i want to use filter floss instead of filter sock. dont know if ill need to have a removable drip tray, cause the water running in from the drain section might wash the floss away..

sump.png
 
Last edited:
Looks good but one thing. Most skimmer don't run good in 10" of water. You may need to make a stand for it. Or have your return in the middle skimmer on the right side and left side fuge. Intake on both ends. Or manifold of your return to your fuge. Because you don't need that much flow throw your fuge. My 2cent
 
I'm also rethinking the overall length.
Reducing it to 30" that would make the fuge 4-5". Which should be enough all I want to have in there anyway is cheato and macro rock.


____________________________
Sent from my iThingy using Tapatalk
 
on thing I learned years ago with a small sump like that is that the return area of the sump is the only area where the water level fluctuates. if you have a decent ammt of evaporation, that will drop quickly. if you dont have an Auto Top off in place, you will be adding water to the tank very frequently or your pump will suck in air. especially with the surgace area of a 120.

Heck, I have a 150 gallon sump and the float switch activates at least once daily to add about 3-5 gallons of evap.
 
Yeah my ato is currently in my return area.


____________________________
Sent from my iThingy using Tapatalk
 
Have to agree, the return area I like to make as large as possible. That way even with an ATO, you have insurance that the pump will not run dry. Air bubbles also can get sucked in like lindsey said also. Also the skimmer depth is a good point like Zef said, unless u want to use a skimmer stand, depends on the skimmer, maybe drop that down to 5"-6". I use a skimmer stand in my sump to elevate my skimmer up. That is a small sump and has a lot going on. Might want to just use the combine the skimmer/Fuge area and make the drain area larger and use that for a live rock area. Fugecan be done, but pushing it on size. Maybe even do a flo over fuge, where the water flows over the top of it and the baffles are under water.
 
I would reverse the baffles as this seems to be the most common design. Looks like the skimmer height will be 8" and not 10 because the baffles The idea of a drip tray as opposed to a filter sock is an interesting one. I would have the thing removable how you address the filter floss with rigid pipe that is below the water level for the overflow is a tricky one. With an Auto Top Off I would think that you would be fine with a smaller return area. Actually the smaller the area the less water gets added every time it turns on which is a good thing as it salinity stays constant. There are parts of the ocean that have varying salinity but the more parameters we can keep stable the better off we are. JMO.

Some people actually have skimmer then return and then fuge this allows for a slower flow into and out of the fuge but does require more plumbing
 
ok so redid it using sketchup

sump2.jpg


sump25.jpg


what you guys think.. the main case is 3/8" and the baffles are 1/4"
 
Last edited:
I know who my new sketchup guy is :D

Explain some of the details. Not sure what some the the extra baffles are for? like the 1/2" strips and the second baffle from the back (left to right) that is floating up high? and the pump return area is really small. Just have to make sure your ATO never runs out of water.
 
Also that 2" part where the drains are coming in will be a detritus trap and a PITA to clean out.
 
I know who my new sketchup guy is :D

Explain some of the details. Not sure what some the the extra baffles are for? like the 1/2" strips and the second baffle from the back (left to right) that is floating up high? and the pump return area is really small. Just have to make sure your ATO never runs out of water.

1/2" strips are to hold the light for the fuge area... yeah the return is kinda small.. hopefully it wont be a problem.. the 2nd baffle up high will have eggcrate to hold filter floss.. and as i think of it i should bring it down to the 7" water line to reduce noise also..



Also that 2" part where the drains are coming in will be a detritus trap and a PITA to clean out.

i know but i made it this way so i can submerge the drains so it will be quiet..
 
1/2" strips are to hold the light for the fuge area... yeah the return is kinda small.. hopefully it wont be a problem.. the 2nd baffle up high will have eggcrate to hold filter floss.. and as i think of it i should bring it down to the 7" water line to reduce noise also..

light strips are cool. and the eggcrate holder makes sense now. the return area will be fine, just have to keep the ato full.

Noise?? if you have sump noise then you have too much flow going thru it.

i know but i made it this way so i can submerge the drains so it will be quiet..

Functionality over noise is prefered. Like i said in the last quote, noise is caused by too much flow. If you submerge the drain pipes underwater it will kill the noise from the drains, that baffle is not needed. it will actually cause noise because of the pressure build up in it. I just see a big detritus trap.
 
What program are you use for that sketch.

Who is making the sump for you or are you doing it your self.
 
Last edited:
You don't have eough coral for Rick. Lol

Nice setup. But you don't really need a fuge.
 
i need a place for my cheato.. i'm tired of my HOB fuge taking up space under my tank..
 
Eco-Bak, No Fuge for you! Plus you save room in the sump for bad Fish Jail, I have one doing 30 years for Forgery, Said he was friendly! It Lied Hehehehehehe
Bill
 
Eco-Bak, No Fuge for you! Plus you save room in the sump for bad Fish Jail, I have one doing 30 years for Forgery, Said he was friendly! It Lied Hehehehehehe
Bill

I get what you're saying but why go mechanical/chemical when there is a proven biological alternative..
 

WHAT’S THE HARDEST PART OF REEFING TO EXPLAIN TO A NON-REEFER?

  • Why a tiny coral frag can cost that much

    Votes: 5 18.5%
  • Why I spend time testing and adjusting water

    Votes: 6 22.2%
  • Why the fish I want might not fit my tank

    Votes: 5 18.5%
  • Why I have buckets, tubing, and salt around the house

    Votes: 1 3.7%
  • Why corals are living animals, not decorations

    Votes: 8 29.6%
  • How much time and attention a reef takes

    Votes: 9 33.3%
  • The difference between freshwater and saltwater creatures

    Votes: 1 3.7%
  • I’ve stopped trying to explain

    Votes: 10 37.0%
  • Other (Post in the comments)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
Back
Top
Home
Post thread…
Market
What's new