SuncrestReef's plans for Reefer XL 425 build

[SuncrestReef]

I've been researching and planning for a few months, and I think I'm now finally ready to pull the trigger on this project. This will be my first aquarium (reef or otherwise) and I don't want to skimp or cut corners. Now that I'm semi-retired I have time to devote to this hobby, but I'm also the type that would rather over-build right from the start rather than upgrade and grow a system over time. Below is a list of what I intend to purchase and how I envision setting it up. I'll also post a couple diagrams of my design. If you see any glaring design flaws, please let me know. I'll probably start ordering equipment in the next week or two, so the actual build is at least a month or more out depending on delivery times.

Aquarium

• Red Sea Reefer XL 425 with black cabinet

Flow

• Neptune COR-20 return pump
• Manifold with gate valves from COR-20 to supply the reactors and UV sterilizer
• Replace Red Sea return nozzle with dual nozzles
• Maxspect XF230 Gyre pump

Filtration

• Stock Red Sea sump
• Stock Red Sea filter socks with added filter pads on top
• Convert stock Red Sea ATO reservoir into refugium for chaeto
  • Refugium fed by pump in filter sock chamber below
  • Refugium overflow drains into skimmer chamber
• Nyos Quantum 160 skimmer
• Two AquaMaxx Fluidized GFO & Carbon media reactors
• AquaMaxx BioPellet reactor
• Pentair Aquatics UV 40 sterilizer
  • UV sterilizer fed by return pump manifold
  • UV sterilizer output drains into skimmer chamber

Lighting

• Two Radion XR30w Pro G4 LED
• Kessil H380 refugium light

Heating

• Eheim 250W Jager in sump, controlled by Apex
• Finnex HMO-150 in saltwater mixing tank, controlled by included Finnex controller

Controller

• Neptune Apex 2016
• Standard Apex probes in skimmer chamber
• Two Neptune FMM units
  • Monitor flow on return pipe
  • Monitor flow on each media reactor
  • Monitor flow on UV sterilizer
  • Leak detection probe in sump cabinet
  • Leak detection probe under carpet below cabinet
• Neptune DOS and DDR
• Neptune AFS
• Neptune WXM
• Icecap Maxspect Gyre Apex Interface Module to control flow pump
• Apex connected to home network via CAT-5 cable hidden behind baseboard molding

Water Management

• BRS 5-stage 150GPD Plus Water Saver RO/DI system
• Two Ace Roto-Mold 55 gallon upright rectangle flat bottom tanks for RO/DI and saltwater
• PanWorld 150PS pump for mixing station
• AutoAqua AWC + ATO
  • ATO pumped to sump from RO/DI storage tank in garage
  • AWC drains from sump to utility sink in garage
  • AWC refills sump from pump in saltwater tank in garage
  • 1/4” tubing run through wall from garage to sump and concealed behind baseboard molding
  • AutoAqua power controlled by Apex to shut it down if leak is detected or during maintenance
• All pipes and tubes color-coded:
  • Saltwater = Orange
  • RO/DI water = Blue
  • Waste water = Gray

Power Management

• Dedicated 20 amp circuit for aquarium
• UPS for immediate backup power (keeps Apex and other devices running before generator can start)
• Generac Guardian 22kW whole-home generator with 200A automatic transfer switch

Water flow diagram:
(not to scale)

Saltwater mixing station in garage:

 

[jp_75]

Looks like you have all planned!

 

[Psustein]

It doesn't look like you missed anything but something helpful I have used is a float valve on the end of the rodi line going into the holding container. It's just another redundancy for the holding tank.

 

[mjlash22]

Love the details!

 

[mjlash22]

What is your plan to shut off/turn on the RO/DI? I noticed you plan on tapping the cold line from your water heater. Do you plan on having a manual shut off tap?

 

[SuncrestReef]

It doesn't look like you missed anything but something helpful I have used is a float valve on the end of the rodi line going into the holding container. It's just another redundancy for the holding tank.

What is your plan to shut off/turn on the RO/DI? I noticed you plan on tapping the cold line from your water heater. Do you plan on having a manual shut off tap?

Sorry, I should have mentioned I did not include 100% of the plumbing components on my diagrams. The RO/DI system will have a manual ball valve on the input from tap water line, plus there will be a float valve inside the 55 gallon RO/DI tank. I plan to fill the RO/DI tank, then turn off the supply valve and only turn it back on periodically as the tank starts to empty. I will fill the saltwater tank and mix saltwater in about 50 gallon batches. Since these tanks are in my garage I'll see them every day as I come and go, so I can easily keep an eye on storage water levels.

The AutoAqua AWC + ATO comes with optical sensors for the sump to know when to add RO/DI water and to automatically change out about 5 gallons of saltwater for changes. It also has built-in timers to know that if the optical sensor hasn't indicated high water during refill within the normal timeframe, it automatically stops refilling and sounds an alarm.

Thanks for the comments!

 

[Reefer1978]

I would consider running the UV on the main return line to the tank, to make sure all return water gets a blast. Of course you will need appropriate size UV for the flow you are going to push through the tank.

 

[SuncrestReef]

I would consider running the UV on the main return line to the tank, to make sure all return water gets a blast. Of course you will need appropriate size UV for the flow you are going to push through the tank.

I did consider that, but the UV units capable of effectively treating the flow rate needed on the return line are ridiculously large and would not fit under the cabinet. I really don't want to run any major plumbing through the wall into the garage other than the 1/4" tubing for AWC & ATO, so it's just not practical to put a full-size UV sterilizer in the garage. I'll be pumping about 200 GPH through the UV and draining back into the sump, so it's better than nothing.

 

[mjlash22]

This is probably one of the most highly detailed pre-planned builds I have seen. Nice work and can't wait to see it unfold!

 

[SuncrestReef]

This is probably one of the most highly detailed pre-planned builds I have seen. Nice work and can't wait to see it unfold!

Thanks! I got a lot of inspiration, ideas, and tips from reviewing all the great build threads in these forums. Major props to Broadfield for his manifold, control panel, and return nozzle ideas! (I'm not sure how to tag a member name in these posts, so I hope Broadfield sees this.)

 

[Reefer1978]

I did consider that, but the UV units capable of effectively treating the flow rate needed on the return line are ridiculously large and would not fit under the cabinet. I really don't want to run any major plumbing through the wall into the garage other than the 1/4" tubing for AWC & ATO, so it's just not practical to put a full-size UV sterilizer in the garage. I'll be pumping about 200 GPH through the UV and draining back into the sump, so it's better than nothing.

Both 25w and 57w Aqua UVs fit.

 

[SuncrestReef]

Both 25w and 57w Aqua UVs fit.

Thanks for that info. I hadn't looked into Aqua UV's product line before, but I see that's a really good option for my cabinet size, so I've updated my plans to incorporate the UV directly into the return line. I've also added more detail to each diagram and color coded the pipes.

Water flow diagram:

Saltwater mixing station in garage:

 

[Zotch]

I'm looking at the XL 425 also. Are reactors even needed anymore when you can run a fuge or dose NoPox? Anybody have the sump compartment dimensions?

 

[SuncrestReef]

I'm looking at the XL 425 also. Are reactors even needed anymore when you can run a fuge or dose NoPox? Anybody have the sump compartment dimensions?

I'm new to the hobby, so I can't answer your question about the need for reactors. I put them into my plans based on what I've seen from others in these forums, and as others have mentioned it's easier to simply turn them off if not needed than to add them in later.

As for the dimensions of the XL 425 sump compartment, it's 29-1/8" wide (but only 28-1/4" usable space due to the door hinges), 20-1/4" deep, and 30" high (but the front support beam and door release hardware reduces the opening height to 27").

The included Red Sea sump is 27-1/2" x 19-7/8" x 16-1/4".

 

[mjlash22]

I'm looking at the XL 425 also. Are reactors even needed anymore when you can run a fuge or dose NoPox? Anybody have the sump compartment dimensions?

NoPox is a great carbon dosing product for the tank, though I would never solely rely on it. Always a good idea to plan in reactors even if you don’t plan on using them right away. Easier than having to re-do the manifold later on.

 

[GTreefer]

I've been researching and planning for a few months, and I think I'm now finally ready to pull the trigger on this project. This will be my first aquarium (reef or otherwise) and I don't want to skimp or cut corners. Now that I'm semi-retired I have time to devote to this hobby, but I'm also the type that would rather over-build right from the start rather than upgrade and grow a system over time. Below is a list of what I intend to purchase and how I envision setting it up. I'll also post a couple diagrams of my design. If you see any glaring design flaws, please let me know. I'll probably start ordering equipment in the next week or two, so the actual build is at least a month or more out depending on delivery times.

Aquarium

• Red Sea Reefer XL 425 with black cabinet

Flow

• Neptune COR-20 return pump
• Manifold with gate valves from COR-20 to supply the reactors and UV sterilizer
• Replace Red Sea return nozzle with dual nozzles
• Maxspect XF230 Gyre pump

Filtration

• Stock Red Sea sump
• Stock Red Sea filter socks with added filter pads on top
• Convert stock Red Sea ATO reservoir into refugium for chaeto
  • Refugium fed by pump in filter sock chamber below
  • Refugium overflow drains into skimmer chamber
• Nyos Quantum 160 skimmer
• Two AquaMaxx Fluidized GFO & Carbon media reactors
• AquaMaxx BioPellet reactor
• Pentair Aquatics UV 40 sterilizer
  • UV sterilizer fed by return pump manifold
  • UV sterilizer output drains into skimmer chamber

Lighting

• Two Radion XR30w Pro G4 LED
• Kessil H380 refugium light

Heating

• Eheim 250W Jager in sump, controlled by Apex
• Finnex HMO-150 in saltwater mixing tank, controlled by included Finnex controller

Controller

• Neptune Apex 2016
• Standard Apex probes in skimmer chamber
• Two Neptune FMM units
  • Monitor flow on return pipe
  • Monitor flow on each media reactor
  • Monitor flow on UV sterilizer
  • Leak detection probe in sump cabinet
  • Leak detection probe under carpet below cabinet
• Neptune DOS and DDR
• Neptune AFS
• Neptune WXM
• Icecap Maxspect Gyre Apex Interface Module to control flow pump
• Apex connected to home network via CAT-5 cable hidden behind baseboard molding

Water Management

• BRS 5-stage 150GPD Plus Water Saver RO/DI system
• Two Ace Roto-Mold 55 gallon upright rectangle flat bottom tanks for RO/DI and saltwater
• PanWorld 150PS pump for mixing station
• AutoAqua AWC + ATO
  • ATO pumped to sump from RO/DI storage tank in garage
  • AWC drains from sump to utility sink in garage
  • AWC refills sump from pump in saltwater tank in garage
  • 1/4” tubing run through wall from garage to sump and concealed behind baseboard molding
  • AutoAqua power controlled by Apex to shut it down if leak is detected or during maintenance
• All pipes and tubes color-coded:
  • Saltwater = Orange
  • RO/DI water = Blue
  • Waste water = Gray

Power Management

• Dedicated 20 amp circuit for aquarium
• UPS for immediate backup power (keeps Apex and other devices running before generator can start)
• Generac Guardian 22kW whole-home generator with 200A automatic transfer switch

Water flow diagram:
(not to scale)

Saltwater mixing station in garage:

 

[GTreefer]

I really like your build. Just starting out here and was thinking of getting some of the same equipment. did you install the Cor-20 yet?
curious to see how loud it is.